STUBBORN Misfire ...

Fisticuff697 said:
Hey guys. Im actually one of those overpaid mazda dealership techs. The only problem I have ever seen with random missfire from the bullet proof protege is problems with the egr, leaking regulator(make sure you check this), spark plugs( need to be replaced every 30k or it will take out the two coil pack) and every once in a while a leaking intake manifold gasket.ANY vacum leaks can cause missfires. ANY rich conditions can cause missfires, the computer can only see what SHOULD be there so anything that is leaking shouldnt be there and he wont see it. Lately we just got a recall for the butterfly screws....seems under a certain vin the little bastards will come loose and fly into your engine. good times. Anyways they are copper and dont cause much damage but closing the tip on the spark plug. As for fuel pumps they hardly go out. Listen do the smart thing, check fuel pressure with a gauge., if it is right ,bam, fuel is good. Check spark and ohm check the coils. If it is good, bam ,spark good. Ohm check the injectors and you guessed it, bam, if they are good your golden. give them a good bg cleaning and replace spark plugs. Also if you havent replaced your timing belt at 60k do that as well. If you still got some kind of a missfire than i would say pcm problem or internal short/open in wiring to the drivers for fuel injectors or driver for the primary side or the coil windings. Im ASE certified, mazda certified, College graduate. Just trying to help.

Overpaid? I wanna work at that dealership.
 
Just ask the question. This thread is too many pages to read it all. It has been repeated enough times, just go for it.
 
Fisticuff697 said:
Hey guys. Im actually one of those overpaid mazda dealership techs. The only problem I have ever seen with random missfire from the bullet proof protege is problems with the egr, leaking regulator(make sure you check this), spark plugs( need to be replaced every 30k or it will take out the two coil pack) and every once in a while a leaking intake manifold gasket.ANY vacum leaks can cause missfires. ANY rich conditions can cause missfires, the computer can only see what SHOULD be there so anything that is leaking shouldnt be there and he wont see it. Lately we just got a recall for the butterfly screws....seems under a certain vin the little bastards will come loose and fly into your engine. good times. Anyways they are copper and dont cause much damage but closing the tip on the spark plug. As for fuel pumps they hardly go out. Listen do the smart thing, check fuel pressure with a gauge., if it is right ,bam, fuel is good. Check spark and ohm check the coils. If it is good, bam ,spark good. Ohm check the injectors and you guessed it, bam, if they are good your golden. give them a good bg cleaning and replace spark plugs. Also if you havent replaced your timing belt at 60k do that as well. If you still got some kind of a missfire than i would say pcm problem or internal short/open in wiring to the drivers for fuel injectors or driver for the primary side or the coil windings. Im ASE certified, mazda certified, College graduate. Just trying to help.

+1
 
$17???

Has anyone actually purchased the Standard Motor Products Coil Pack yet? If so, actually installed it into the vehicle? Just wanted to know how the coil packs hold up? Are they at all reliable...? Im a bit skeptical because there is such a big price difference?!?! I don't just mean the price difference b/w the dealership and rockauto. Even the airtex ones from rockauto are about $90 and change. So how come the UF407 is sooooo cheap??? I kinda believe in the theory, you get what you pay for.
 
because they are on back order. It says something like 10 or 20 days delay which means taht they may cancel your order.

My airtex died 13 months after install. One month after waranty.

I got the 1.8 coil pack and wires instead.
 
I have had a similar problem...

I purchased my protege in october of last year, its a 2002 es, manual. The original owner had the motor replaced. the body has 85k on it, while the motor has somewhere around 40k. The CEL came on back in november, sometimes flashing, sometimes not. I took it in to the guy who did the motor swap, and he said it needed a new knock sensor. $200 later, the CEL went off for a week, then came back on.

When i start the car, it idles really rough. it will bounce from 100-1500 rpms when in neutral, and almost die when in reverse. I also hear a rattling noise when i am in low rpms, like a loose piece of metal, but it goes away once im past 2000 rpms. i thought it could be a cover for the cat or something, but now im thinking bearings? It is going through coolant like a bastard too. I have to fill it every other week. the weird thing is, there are no leak spots on the driveway.

So, the CEL is still on. It comes and goes. Drives fine, not lacking any power, just idles low and misfires at idle. should i test the coils, egr, vacuum, etc?
 
If it is going through coolant and a CEL is on you should make checking the CEL for what code it is top priority.

Once you find out the code then post it up and we can go from there.
 
Allright guys. I had that SAME problem on my old engine. #4 Cylinder Misfire. I bought the Ignition Coils from O'Reilly Auto Parts, (17.95 ea.) To get stock wires, go to Auto Zone, (28.99 for the two wires) If that does not solve your problem. Take the spark plugs out, and with a flashlight, look into the cylinder. To my surprise, i found Radiator fluid in Cylinder #4.....oh yea, thats were the fun started.......My problem happend to be a blown head gasket, right at 80,000 miles.....My fix was a 20,000 mile motor from a salvage yard. cost the same to install as it would have been to replace the gasket..
 

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