Strut question

[katapaltes]

Bump stop question [was: Strut question]

Hi guys,
I've read most all the strut threads on the forum (some of them twice), but wanted to get a sanity check from you all. The ride quality in my '03 P5 MT with 113,000 miles has deteriorated quite a bit in the last several months. Even small interruptions in the pavement can be jarring at times. With the [relatively] cold weather, my suspension makes a "crunchy-squishy" noise until it warms up, which I'm guessing is coming from the struts. They haven't ever been replaced as there hasn't been a need; the car is usually garaged and I drive it spiritedly at best. I've replaced engine mounts 2 & 3, and my stock-size Yokohama Avid Ascends are not over-inflated.

So, will just replacing the struts likely fix the harsh ride problem? I don't want to replace the springs or strut mounts unless they need it. I poked what little I could of the strut mounts with my fingernail and they were still pliable. Since I'm not looking to lower, I would probably get KYB struts unless there's a compelling reason to pay more for something else. Any thoughts are appreciated.

 

[katapaltes]

OK, I bought four KYB OEM replacement struts and I've installed one of them. Even in Texas, I rounded the end link nut badly trying to remove it with a socket. Hit it with PB Blaster repeatedly over the course of a week, bought a Harbor Freight impact wrench for $40, some Cr-Mo six-point impact sockets and the nut was off in five seconds. I. <3. Impact. Wrenches.

I've stopped after replacing one strut because the bump stops ("bound bumpers") on all four corners are now basically DUST held together by nothing but 13 years of familiarity. Anyone have a good source for replacing just the bump stops and not the boots? The prices are all over the map, but I see them for $10 apiece at Independence Mazda (Mazda-branded, I assume). They don't make it any easier by offering two options, "MPS" and "without sport suspension," when the P5 is the "sport suspension" afaik. They show the same part number for MPS and w/o sport, both front and back. Help?
http://onlinemazdaparts.com/parts/i...BN7H-34-111&action=oePartSearch&siteid=214264

<a href="http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/katapaltes/media/strut-phonebooks_zpsg06xjsaf.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/ah127/katapaltes/strut-phonebooks_zpsg06xjsaf.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo strut-phonebooks_zpsg06xjsaf.jpg"/></a>

 

[MrGiggles]

The dealer should be able to get the right part if you give them the VIN.

Additionally, I would swing by your friendly neighborhood parts store and pick up some jack stands and a proper jack. 100 dollars isn't worth life or limb.

 

[mazdadude]

The dealer should be able to get the right part if you give them the VIN.

Additionally, I would swing by your friendly neighborhood parts store and pick up some jack stands and a proper jack. 100 dollars isn't worth life or limb.

+100 (boom01)

 

[katapaltes]

OK, my buddy's dad just passed a few days ago and he had two floor jacks, so that's handled. I'm researching jack stand placement and may buy some if I can find a location that won't involve bending metal at the pinch welds (the locations where you place the factory scissor jack). I do appreciate your concern and believe me when I say I never had any intention of being under the car with anything less than jack stands+floor jack or car ramps. I will probably get some Rhinoramps for when I'm under the car.

Also, before anyone asks... The rotor wasn't touching the brick above.

 

[MrGiggles]

Placing them on the pinch weld won't bend them, as long as you let it down slow. Place the stand as close to the wheel as possible.

You can also place them on the sub frame, near the yellow cylindrical area in this photo.

 

[Ilikebikes]

Placing them on the pinch weld won't bend them, as long as you let it down slow. Place the stand as close to the wheel as possible.

You can also place them on the sub frame, near the yellow cylindrical area in this photo.

Off topic, but wow that is clean. I climbed under mine for the first time to change my oil and transmission fluid, and I was happy with mine until this picture.

 

[katapaltes]

These are the part numbers from the local dealership in Irving, TX. At $40+ and $20+ apiece depending on the part, it would be $100+ for the four of them. Yikes.
Front bump stop: c100-34-111a
Rear bump stop: b25d-28-111

Febest brand versions are $10+ apiece on Amazon, but I don't know how good they are. Anyone tried them? Are "MPS" versions compatible and perhaps cheaper?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

Coxmazda.com seems to have slightly better prices on these parts.

 

[MrGiggles]

At that price, I'd just drill a hole in a hockey puck and call it good....

 

[pcb]

Off topic, but wow that is clean...

I'm thinkin that's a fourteen year old picture...

If not, then I'm upset too...

 

[katapaltes]

I'm thinkin that's a fourteen year old picture...

Lol. And damn, I shoulda' got my other first choice color, yellow.

I gave up and bought the KYB SB101 and SB102 bump stop+boot combos. I don't trust the Febest brand without any reviews and I'm not sure I trust the Mazda brand as disintegrated as mine are. The KYB ones look robust.

 

[MrGiggles]

I'm thinkin that's a fourteen year old picture...

If not, then I'm upset too...

It's possible. I found it with a Google image search.

 

[Ilikebikes]

Lol. And damn, I shoulda' got my other first choice color, yellow.

I gave up and bought the KYB SB101 and SB102 bump stop+boot combos. I don't trust the Febest brand without any reviews and I'm not sure I trust the Mazda brand as disintegrated as mine are. The KYB ones look robust.

Are you just using the bump stops? The Amazon reviews for the boots seem really hit and miss on those. The same kit seems to work on a bunch of different cars.

 

[katapaltes]

Do you think I can use just the bump stops? The way the KYB bump stops lock into their boots, I doubt they'd fit the same in the factory boots. I can't really look at how the original bump stops fit with the original boots because the bump stops have deteriorated so badly.

I don't even know where the bump stop sit in an original setup - at the top of the boot, inside the boot, or at the bottom of the boot. In any event, the boots and bump stops I bought are made by KYB and spec'd by them to fit the KYB struts I bought, so I should be ok.

 

[katapaltes]

Got the front two struts in pretty easily. The first of the two back ones was a complete and total *beating* in comparison. I've got everything back together now except my sanity, but when I try to tighten the top nut (piston rod nut?), the whole inner portion of the strut just spins. The front struts didn't do this. I see that there's a silver metal collar right below the top nut with a D-shaped hole in it that fits the D-shape of the inner portion of the strut. Do I just need to grab that with channel lock pliers and then tighten the top nut?