Still going lean with FM clamp

well i test it at the wire RIGHT before it goes in there. its the blue wire, but like i said, after the harness it turns blue/pink.

i didnt do it warm, but i gave up because i figured i was getting .02v just like in the cab. i doubt letting it warm up is gonna help.
 
yeah it should help.
All O2 sensors have to be heated in order to give accurate readings, that includes widebands. Even Innovate LM1 wideband needs to be heated, thats why our sensors has a heater circuit.
 
well i guess i will test it again when i get to work tommorrow after running it, but i dont think it will read different. its real easy for me because i wired a butt connector into the wire but only used one side, so all ihave to do is stick the pos lead into the butt connector.
 
Matthew said:
the sensor is def bad im trying to get a new one. i need an answer to this:

" that doesnt make sense. if the clamp is passing through a volt of .09 why is the ECU pulling fuel?"
Ok here is my SWAG on this one.

Given what Keith has said and what you have reported, its not pulling fuel. If I have read this right .09 is way lean and so it will be dumping fuel to make up for the lean-ness of that value. That is why you are at 13.5 no matter what. I'm guessing the fuel pressure is helping keep you some what safe and not going really lean (as in 14.7 or worse).

And, further more, from what I understand, the voltage clamp will not clamp the voltage at .365-.390 (last time I checked mine it was ~.385) if the voltage is lower. In other words, the clamp makes the ECU see a lean condition for which it will dump more fuel. However, since .09 is way less than .390 then the clamp doesn't need to do anything as the ECU is already seeing a seriously lean condition.

And that means your O2 sensor is shot. But, you already know that.

I think I have it, but this also seen through the clarity of a snowy night shift.
 
70 bucks for the one you have to splice, over 200 for plug n play...ah, i think ill go wit the 70.
 
MPNick said:
O2 is not something you go cheep on anyway.

Saving money doesn't always mean you're "going cheep" (sic). The expensive O2 sensor from Mazda is not a magic unit. It simply has a proprietary connector. The quality of the signal will be no different than any other heated O2 sensor. The only difference between all the various narrowband O2 sensors on the market is the number of wires (ie, where are the grounds, is it heated, etc), the connector and the thread pitch. Save yourself a bunch of money and splice in a generic Bosch. We have them for $66.95.

I like igdrasil's suggestion.

Keith
 
igdrasil said:
yeah, but, you could try the 2nd O2 sensor if you still have it and have a mil eliminator?
you can just put a mil elim on the end if theres no sensor... it detect a low voltage and then a no signal cel. Youd have to get a baker replacement simulator.
 
im glad my car provides suspense for other people as well. i got my new plugs in today so they should be going on tommorrow. HKS SSQ will be here friday. hopefully i can have the new o2 by early next week.
 
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