it should just click once... it sounds like your's is all messed up. If its brand new then just send it back to FM and theyll test and send you a new one. There is no need for you to soder really, simple T clamps should work fine. Also your injectors maybe bad... they dont tend to like 100psi... it alters the spray pattern and they can start to stick. Also O2 sensor has nothing to do with it... my 2nd one is none exsistent.
Still going lean with FM clamp
- Thread starter Matthew
- Start date
Matthew said:
That's how it should work... it won't constantly click while it is working. That is why I asked before how you were coming to the conclusion that it was clicking "off" and not clicking "on"? How lean are you running? What are you seeing on your AEM gauge in third gear, WOT?
Linux-
You mentioned that the clamp starts to get ineffective after 8psi. I don't really understand that because I have been boosting WELL above that for quite some time now with the FM clamp, but let's just set that arguement aside for now.
My question is, do you think that you guys could add some sort of restrictor in the vac line going to the clamp to keep the pressure at the switch below the level that causes problems for you? Maybe something similar to a MBC so the clamp doesn't get "overloaded" with boost pressure? Just kind of throwing ideas out there to try and help you out Matt.
im seeing 13.5afr at 6.5psi at 100psi of fuel. all i was saying about the clicking (since no one understands)505zoom said:
0psi silent
0-1psi it clicks for about two seconds "clickclickclickclick"
2psi silent again
all i was saying was that it was clicking and then the clicking stopped (when i said click on and off, i wasnt actually referring tot he unit working or not, i was saying the noise)
what it should do... reads that there is pressure and then keeps the ecu from pulling fuel. Once pressure is gone then it will click(s) again to turn it off. The easiest way to know if its the ecu is to hook up an OB scanner go into fuel trim and if you see negitive numbers then its the ecu and has to do with the clamp if not then its another problem.
Matthew said:
If you are running 13.5:1, then the clamp has to be doing at least something. Forgive me for the possibly stupid question, but why are you running such high fuel pressure? Seems a lot higher than what would be needed.
Matthew said:
Lol, I understand what you are saying, it just sounded like you were saying the unit was off after the series of clicks.
True, I was running just short of that and was at 10:1 at 8 PSI505zoom said:If you are running 13.5:1, then the clamp has to be doing at least something. Forgive me for the possibly stupid question, but why are you running such high fuel pressure? Seems a lot higher than what would be needed.
Lol, I understand what you are saying, it just sounded like you were saying the unit was off after the series of clicks.
bump, i used the line tht WAS going to my clamp to my boost gauge, and the gauge worked fine. SAME air fuel ratios with the clamp disconnected!
on a side note, i DID fix my stereo.l i bought a multimeter and began checking the lines. it ws the fuse on the power wire. you wont beileve this though, the fuse looked BRAND new which is why i didnt think that was it. if you dont beileve me i have a pic of this PERFECT fuse...
on a side note, i DID fix my stereo.l i bought a multimeter and began checking the lines. it ws the fuse on the power wire. you wont beileve this though, the fuse looked BRAND new which is why i didnt think that was it. if you dont beileve me i have a pic of this PERFECT fuse...
I'm only going to post this in one of the (at least) three threads currently going on about this.
CALL US. That's how we like to support our products.
You're either going to have to send the unit back to us so we can check it, or you're going to have to do some troubleshooting with a multimeter. It's really not a complicated device. If you took the switch apart (I saw a reference to that in one of these threads) that might be causing a problem.
To answer a question I saw in one of these threads, a bad O2 sensor will not affect the clamp. It will continue to restrict the O2 signal voltage to a maximum of .365 or .39 (I forget what the Protege setting is). If the O2 sensor is bad and the voltage is less than that, then lower voltage will be passed along.
There are a lot of car audio nuts on this board. I'm pretty sure the O2 clamp is analogous to a low-pass filter.
Keith
Flyin' Miata
CALL US. That's how we like to support our products.
You're either going to have to send the unit back to us so we can check it, or you're going to have to do some troubleshooting with a multimeter. It's really not a complicated device. If you took the switch apart (I saw a reference to that in one of these threads) that might be causing a problem.
To answer a question I saw in one of these threads, a bad O2 sensor will not affect the clamp. It will continue to restrict the O2 signal voltage to a maximum of .365 or .39 (I forget what the Protege setting is). If the O2 sensor is bad and the voltage is less than that, then lower voltage will be passed along.
There are a lot of car audio nuts on this board. I'm pretty sure the O2 clamp is analogous to a low-pass filter.
Keith
Flyin' Miata
If your O2 sensor is bad, doesnt matter how good the FM O2 sensor is, or the Turbo Module, IT WONT WORK! Period!
Its either:
1. Bad wiring
2. Bad Sensor
3. FM Bad? (dont think so)
Get a multimeter and test the clamp. If it gives the right voltage when activating, the clamp is ok.
-edit-
If you boost a long gear, you may experience fuel/ignition cuts.
Its either:
1. Bad wiring
2. Bad Sensor
3. FM Bad? (dont think so)
Get a multimeter and test the clamp. If it gives the right voltage when activating, the clamp is ok.
-edit-
If you boost a long gear, you may experience fuel/ignition cuts.
Last edited:
As for my experience, yes, the clamp will continue the send the correct values, but it will also send the "unclamped" value while cruising that could be crazy numbers and affect the whole map.Keith said:
For example, what I had wrong on my wiring was the O2 sensor heater circuit. IT was bad wiring, and the car would run lean on boost, and even do ignition cuts...it will only do good A/F number over 4700rpms when the open loop kicks in.
You will know if theres a problem because it will be like a Vtec kick in.
