SS FTC + STi 550s = AMAZING!!!

also, i dont know how the haltech map is set up; like if the input values on the timing map are degrees "above" stock timing, or just total degrees of timing period.

Now that i think of it, it probably is "total" degrees of timing. thus around that boost range i had 27-29 degrees of TOTAL timing, not 27 degress ABOVE stock.

You are eliminating the stock ECU from the equation with the E6X, when it comes to ignition and fuel.
 
so if I got a map from somebody, what do theydo? send it through an email and then I just upload and its ready to go? How does it work exactly, how easy?
I guess a better question is, if I got a map that somebody is already using can I just take that map and go or do I absolutely have to tune it?

I know these questions arent only helping me out by the way.
 
so if I got a map from somebody, what do theydo? send it through an email and then I just upload and its ready to go? How does it work exactly, how easy?
I guess a better question is, if I got a map that somebody is already using can I just take that map and go or do I absolutely have to tune it?

I know these questions arent only helping me out by the way.

nvmsp, let me spell it out real simple.

0.) BUY A WIDEBAND
1.) buy FTC from protege garage (it has a map ALREADY ON IT for the MSP)
2.) down load some 440 maps that are floating around the forum like here: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123620555&highlight=440+map
3.) wire up the FTC as the instructions that come with the kit say to
4.) install 440cc injectors if you have some (or even go to 550 cc if you want) (or just leave stock injectors in, and go with a different map in the thread i posted like "14 psi FMIC map"
5.) before you turn your car on, connect the ftc with a laptop using the R4 software and a usb-> serial connector
6.) load the downloaded 440cc map from your desktop (or where ever your map is) to the R4 software (open customer --> then find the map))
7.) Go to the MAPS section of the R4 software across the top of the screen
8) open map A
9.) then in the top left hand corner of map A you will see an icon that when you go over it says "WRITE TO ECU"
10) click this. (make sure your ignition is "ON " but car is NOT
11) when Map, A, B are done start your car.

11) it will idle correctly.

Again, without a wideband it is very difficult to fine tune.

I suggest if you are thinking about doing this to invest in a wideband FIRST.

the AIC i have is extra, and not really needed for a stock turbo MSP. I have a lot of air going into my engine, thus i need to supply enough fuel.
 
good all the questions answered that I would need to know on 1 post wow. I'll just use my freinds labtop to download and do all this. thanks for all the help every1.

-azain6er, I knew you had a bigger turbo. I probably won't need the AIC setup and wouldnt buy it if I did, but my turbo is in MPnick form so it's not stock though.

but the only question I need answered now is this: If I have a code for too much fuel. If I clear it it takes about a week to come back on.
So if I cleared the code then installed this FTC, could I get away with not seeing that code anymore?
 
good all the questions answered that I would need to know on 1 post wow. I'll just use my freinds labtop to download and do all this. thanks for all the help every1.

-azain6er, I knew you had a bigger turbo. I probably won't need the AIC setup and wouldnt buy it if I did, but my turbo is in MPnick form so it's not stock though.

but the only question I need answered now is this: If I have a code for too much fuel. If I clear it it takes about a week to come back on.
So if I cleared the code then installed this FTC, could I get away with not seeing that code anymore?

it is possible depending on how lean the map is tuned on the FTC.

best bet bud is to get a wideband installed and then you know WHEN and WHERE you are too rich, and can adjust your FTC fuel map to fix your overly rich problem.

it is simple once you get the hang of it!

-Bryan
 
it is possible depending on how lean the map is tuned on the FTC.

best bet bud is to get a wideband installed and then you know WHEN and WHERE you are too rich, and can adjust your FTC fuel map to fix your overly rich problem.

it is simple once you get the hang of it!

-Bryan

sounds good. Yea I need a wideband. But I've tried replacing both o2's, maf, pcv other little parts and the code has not gone away.

I gotta save up a little for all this, but this is the route I'm gonna go. I can finally say I know which ems I'm going to get for once.

Before the year is up I'll have all this installed. I'm just gonna clear the code install the ftc and hopefully the code doesn't return, or even if it does just reload the map or something. I'll give it a go.
I'll be on stock injectors at first and no wideband, just to see if the code returns. After that, I'll plan accordingly injectors,wideband, new map etc.
 
it is possible depending on how lean the map is tuned on the FTC.

best bet bud is to get a wideband installed and then you know WHEN and WHERE you are too rich, and can adjust your FTC fuel map to fix your overly rich problem.

it is simple once you get the hang of it!

-Bryan


So is your car still running with this? lol. Did you mess with it anymore?
 
last i spoke with him the car was running like a champ

yes Ken is correct, absent my axle pooping out on me (due to the power increase with the ftc i am sure) everything is working well.

Just need to get that axle on and then everything should be fine.

P.S. ken could you pm me that tracking number? UPS is very weird at my place and if i dont know when they are coming they just leave ;-(

Buy this ftc!!!!

-Bryan
 
It's working good then. Do you control amount of boost by wastegate or boost controller or does the computer?

Oh I'm gonna buy it. Just need to save up a little..


I can't wait.
And I just found a dyno thats a couple blocks from my house, thats really gonna come in handy. I'm scared to go though since they have a 490whp mustang on boost. I'm gonna go in there and pull a 200whp maybe a tiny bit more...maybe. My car is fast enough all I'm lacking is 3 psi and once I get the boost to a solid 9 or 10psi not spiking 6-9psi and fluctuating it will be much faster and dyno alot higher but it's never gonna be no 490whp. I'll do a before and after. I wouldn't be surprised though if I get like a 187whp since my boost is not solid. Stock turbo and wastegate my boost was solid almost 8psi. Now it's 6-9psi whatever it feels like boosting never holds really. I'll do a before and after dyno not doing more than 2 pulls per dyno. Maybe even only 1 for each dyno.

First things first though, I got a place to install it but need the wiring scamatics, I need to borrow my friends labtop and get some maps.
You think I should use that 14psi map even if I only run 9-10psi? I'm sure theres more maps available but I wanna find the map I'm gonna use soon.
 
It's working good then. Do you control amount of boost by wastegate or boost controller or does the computer?

Oh I'm gonna buy it. Just need to save up a little..


I can't wait.
And I just found a dyno thats a couple blocks from my house, thats really gonna come in handy. I'm scared to go though since they have a 490whp mustang on boost. I'm gonna go in there and pull a 200whp maybe a tiny bit more...maybe. My car is fast enough all I'm lacking is 3 psi and once I get the boost to a solid 9 or 10psi not spiking 6-9psi and fluctuating it will be much faster and dyno alot higher but it's never gonna be no 490whp. I'll do a before and after. I wouldn't be surprised though if I get like a 187whp since my boost is not solid. Stock turbo and wastegate my boost was solid almost 8psi. Now it's 6-9psi whatever it feels like boosting never holds really. I'll do a before and after dyno not doing more than 2 pulls per dyno. Maybe even only 1 for each dyno.

First things first though, I got a place to install it but need the wiring scamatics, I need to borrow my friends labtop and get some maps.
You think I should use that 14psi map even if I only run 9-10psi? I'm sure theres more maps available but I wanna find the map I'm gonna use soon.

If there is one thing i have learned in modding cars it is that there will always be someone faster. So, in regard to the 490 who stang on boost, i wouldnt sweat it. Numbers arent everything to everyone.

I run the boost via my greddy profec Spec B (the old school one).

maybe your problem is your internal wastegate. Maybe get an electronic boost controller?

I would go ahead and run the 14 psi map. The only difference b/w it and the others is that it is tuned for up to 14 psi. If you are only running 8-9 psi, then you wont even utilize that higher PSI range, and thus will work fine for you.

Good luck with the install!

-Bryan
 
If there is one thing i have learned in modding cars it is that there will always be someone faster. So, in regard to the 490 who stang on boost, i wouldnt sweat it. Numbers arent everything to everyone.

I run the boost via my greddy profec Spec B (the old school one).

maybe your problem is your internal wastegate. Maybe get an electronic boost controller?

I would go ahead and run the 14 psi map. The only difference b/w it and the others is that it is tuned for up to 14 psi. If you are only running 8-9 psi, then you wont even utilize that higher PSI range, and thus will work fine for you.

Good luck with the install!

-Bryan

Yea I see what your saying. Only thing I ever wanted to do with this car is beat a 05 SRT4 from a roll 2nd till beginning 4th, which I did along time ago with bolt ons stock turbo, so I'm happy with the msp. Stock I wasn't happy power wise.

Ok good info. Yea the wga is why it doesn't hold, the ATPwga. But I didnt wanna do solid boost in fear or blowing the motor untuned and all. I pulled the wg line before to see what 9psi felt like with the mpnickturbo, which I must say was very fun. But every gear kept hitting fuel cut except for 1st gear which was nasty from a low mph roll. I just wanted to get an idea. I really liked it SOOOO much faster so I wanna go 9 or 10psi, I don't need more boost than that. Stock motor and trans.

but yea thanks, I'll use that map. Now I need money, damn. and I need a new idle control sensor or whatever its called along with some other little parts most likely. Soon i'll post up everything about it. It'll be somewhat soon. Before winter is my goal or way earlier.
 
umm if you pulled off the wg line you would boost alot more then 9 psi try 20 psi

First off, stop acting like you know everything.
Second, how you gonna tell me? I pulled the line off on 2 seperate occasions and was hitting a solid 9psi close to 10 psi. I've had 2 people in the car once, and 1 person in the car another time.
third, why would I make that up?

I don't know much about other cars other turbo systems, but this was my case I have a boost gauge.
So your wrong.

If I wanted to be an asshole like msphtown I'd make a video showing you this off the boost gauge. But I'm not. And I have no problem with you anymore msphtown, just saying.
 
ok so your telling my the max boost of your turbo is 9psi? when you pull off the wastegate line the wastegate dosent see boost so it dosent open and your turbo will build max boost.
 
ok first off if you pull you wastegate line off you gonna run more then 9 psi im running 13 on the stock turbo with more to go....i ran my car open wastegate and hit 16psi before i let off
 

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