Squeaking Front doors

AllyJack

Member
May be a dumb question, but how do I stop the front doors from squeaking when I open them? Do I simply get some wd40 and spay it into the hinge?

I know that the doors are very heavy on the cx9, and I just get concerned that sometimes I feel like if I let the door swing open quickly, its just going to fly right off. I know this wont happen, but its just how it feels and sounds.

Is this common?
 
First off, you'll get better advice of you post your vehicle details: Year, Trim, AWD/FWD, Options.

Don't use WD40. WD40 is a freeing agent, not a lubricant. Unless your hinges were rusty or corroded, you never want to use it.

Get either a spray silicone or lithium grease with a tube nozzle and spray it into the joint of the squeaky hinge. Then wipe off the excess.

Some early CX9s had a recall on the front door stops being too weak.
 
Wd40 is a lubricating agent although a very light one that can dry with time so it should not be used in auto door hinge if you expect lasting results. So as CX9 SportOwner suggested, a good lithium grease is the way to go.
 
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WD40 is a RELEASE agent. It DISSOLVES lubricants, as well as rust and corrosion. It's like aerosol mineral spirits and should NEVER be used as a lubricant. It will dry out the contact point and promote friction. Only use it if a joint is rusted, and then follow up with lubricant after the WD40 dries.
 
WD-40 dissolves rust and prevents it from happening for a period of time. It is not a lubricant. Grease is better for door hinges.
 
Check your statement fellas. WD40 is a light lubricant unless you know something more then the manufacture of WD40.

Just in case you don't want to spend 2 seconds researching, hereis an FAQ straight from WD40. *#4 should be interesting to you*

What does WD-40 do?

WD-40 fulfills five basic functions:
1. CLEANS: WD-40 gets under dirt, grime and grease to clean. It also dissolves adhesives, allowing easy removal of labels, tape and excess bonding material.
2. DISPLACES MOISTURE: Because WD-40 displaces moisture, it quickly dries out electrical systems to eliminate moisture-induced short circuits.
3. PENETRATES: WD-40 loosens rust-to-metal bonds and frees stuck, frozen or rusted metal parts.
4. LUBRICATES: WD-40's lubricating ingredients are widely dispersed and tenaciously held to all moving parts.
5. PROTECTS: WD-40 protects metal surfaces with corrosion-resistant ingredients to shield against moisture and other corrosive elements.
 
So this lithium grease, where do you put it and how do you apply it? I've got issues on another one of my cars and I've always just used WD-40 like my dad taught me. It does seem to help for awhile, but it hasn't solved the problem permanently. Do you need like a grease gun or can you just rub it on and work it in by opening and closing the door?
 
Do you know what "WD" stands for? "Water Displacement".
Sure anyone can add some lubricating ingredient to WD-40 and make it capable of "lubricating". However, that is not its main function.
It is also obvious from your list of "Five Functions". If it was a lubricant, how come "Lubricates" is listed as #4? (behind CLEANS and DISPLACES).

I think the point is not whether it can lubricate or not. Yes, any stuff with some oil in it can lubricate in some sense. However, most mechanics know that WD-40 is meant for cleaning rust, not lubricating. I learned that from the guys who fixed my garage doors when the springs failed.

We can agree to disagree. Based on what the OP wants, WD-40 is not the best choice for door hinges.
 
Do you know what "WD" stands for? "Water Displacement".
Sure anyone can add some lubricating ingredient to WD-40 and make it capable of "lubricating". However, that is not its main function.
It is also obvious from your list of "Five Functions". If it was a lubricant, how come "Lubricates" is listed as #4? (behind CLEANS and DISPLACES).

I think the point is not whether it can lubricate or not. Yes, any stuff with some oil in it can lubricate in some sense. However, most mechanics know that WD-40 is meant for cleaning rust, not lubricating. I learned that from the guys who fixed my garage doors when the springs failed.

We can agree to disagree. Based on what the OP wants, WD-40 is not the best choice for door hinges.


never seen so much semantic spew (dunno)

I am not disagreeing with anyone, it's you and others who disagree with the manufacturer of WD40. Just to be clear, the gangly garage door installers know best (uhm), I will remember that and if you can get me their cell numbers, I have a few more technical questions for them (rofl2)


I will say it again that WD40 is not the best lubricant for door hinges so use a moly based lithium grease for best results.
 
WD-40 works good enough to remove the squeak from my bedroom door. I wouldn't use it on garage moving parts though. Lithium based ones works much longer and is more effective.
 
It's a weak temporary lubricant at best to allow you to operate the part while cleaning it. When it dries up it's worthless, and because it removed the actual grease, your joint is now metal on metal.

You always have to follow up WD40 with a permanent lubricant. Yes, the label is misleading, and many people have worn hinges because of it. That was the motivation to jump in and warn against relying on it for lubrication.

I wasn't trying to step on toes, just impart my experience with as much detail as possible.
 
I agree with you Sport and wrote it, just wanted to clarify it being a light lubricant and I am sure it is good enough for the door hinges in your home.
 
Cool You may have noticed I can be passionate about getting good information exchanged.

Ditto.. As I hope my 5 years of ASE Master Technician helps (although that was 15 years ago) our community.

P.S.

The attention to detail with Mazda is blowing my mind. Look at the end of the hood prop rod. It has a plastic piece on the end of itto fit in the hole perfectly instead of a plain metal end. WOW
 
Look at the end of the hood prop rod. It has a plastic piece on the end of itto fit in the hole perfectly instead of a plain metal end. WOW

For a fully loaded GT around $42k MSRP, you would think something along the line of a gas struts is much better than a rod, wouldn't you?
 
Ditto.. As I hope my 5 years of ASE Master Technician helps (although that was 15 years ago) our community.

P.S.

The attention to detail with Mazda is blowing my mind. Look at the end of the hood prop rod. It has a plastic piece on the end of itto fit in the hole perfectly instead of a plain metal end. WOW

Unlike the guys who bolt on a muffler and consider themselves a gearhead (you know who you are), I am a gearhead.
My training came from my master mechanic father buying junkers that didn't run and making ME rebuild them from the ground up in order to have a vehicle. He did that with my first motorcycle, and my first 2 cars. He only supervised, so I would learn how to do it. Since then I've done most of the work on my vehicles, only recently deferring to shops because of my age, and the complexity of the newer cars.

I agree with Mazda and their attention to detail. Unlike most, they seem to focus on the owner's, rather than the marketing department's, needs. As I've said before, their seating system is the best. Simple and easy to use. The rear seat straps do 3 things that others had to have 3 different mechanisms to do: release the seat back, pull it back up, and hold up the rear cargo well cover. And the fact that the shifter flips TOWARDS the drive for manual, instead of away like all others. They also got the up and down shift correct. Smart.
 
I still think that unplug/untrim hole at the rear spoiler for the backlight washer looks unfinished. When I went through the car wash the first time, I really thought a piece got knocked off.
 

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