Speed3 Bucking and Surging

Barney

Member
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2007 MS3 Grand Touring Black Mica
I loved this car at first, even after the the throttle stuck twice on the all weather mats. But soon it would start it's routine of running like crap till I let it warm up and hammered on it at 50 in 4th. Then ran great. Now it runs like crap all the time. Bucking and surging all the time, fun stuff with an 80 mile drive to work. It's now on it's third trip back to the dealer. Which takes a week and a half just to get the frigging thing back in there. They just replaced the throttle sensor. (Which took a week to get from Japan on a boat. Ever heard of a thing called an airplane?) along with plugs ect. Last trip waiting for 3 hours at the dealer figuring I will get this POS back running good, I'm told it still bucks and whatever. Of the 11,000 miles on this car, it's run like s*** for I'd guess 7000 miles of it. Also probably not good for it.
The c*nt (sorry ladies, but she was) that takes care of service got pissy with me when I complained. I'm now in the third rental car, which I flat refuse to pay for till I get my car back. I was going to vent to the manager while waiting this last time. But figured if I got it back in good shape, It would be a waste of time. Now I'm pissed. Looking for suggestions. I feel better now that I've vented a little. Thank you.
 
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Fully stock right? The floor mats have a tsb or something to fix the sticking you know. Is the dealer throwing parts at it or are they data logging your driveability concerns?
 
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if you have a cold air intake then your getting boost spike everyone who has the cia gets it cuase the enginge isnt tuned for it, cp-e is the best bet for this as they engineered there maf housing to prevent this. when you punch it in the upper gears the boost spikes up to 20psi and the ecu doesn't know what to do so it cuts the fuel
 
if you have a cold air intake then your getting boost spike everyone who has the cia gets it cuase the enginge isnt tuned for it, cp-e is the best bet for this as they engineered there maf housing to prevent this. when you punch it in the upper gears the boost spikes up to 20psi and the ecu doesn't know what to do so it cuts the fuel

Mine dont spike to 20psi.maybe 17 or 18 but it isnt cutting fuel.THis dont seem to be the problem he is having anyways.
 
I loved this car at first, even after the the throttle stuck twice on the all weather mats. But soon it would start it's routine of running like crap till I let it warm up and hammered on it at 50 in 4th. Then ran great. Now it runs like crap all the time. Bucking and surging all the time, fun stuff with an 80 mile drive to work. It's now on it's third trip back to the dealer. Which takes a week and a half just to get the frigging thing back in there. They just replaced the throttle sensor. (Which took a week to get from Japan on a boat. Ever heard of a thing called an airplane?) along with plugs ect. Last trip waiting for 3 hours at the dealer figuring I will get this POS back running good, I'm told it still bucks and whatever. Of the 11,000 miles on this car, it's run like s*** for I'd guess 7000 miles of it. Also probably not good for it.
The c*nt (sorry ladies, but she was) that takes care of service got pissy with me when I complained. I'm now in the third rental car, which I flat refuse to pay for till I get my car back. I was going to vent to the manager while waiting this last time. But figured if I got it back in good shape, It would be a waste of time. Now I'm pissed. Looking for suggestions. I feel better now that I've vented a little. Thank you.

Looks like your dealer SUCKS!!!
 
I believe that there is a service bulletin that is out there that applies to this. Have your dealer scan the cpu, and see if your car has the swirl valve replacement issue. This will cure your sped's "hiccups". I had the same issues with mine right after I bought it it this last june. I took the dealer less than 2 hours to rid my car of this problem. The car has been more than awesome since the fix. good luck!
 
my sisters cx-7 was doing that same s***...when u gas it its like you gasing it and letting go then gasing it but constantly and all the time..they fixed it but they changed her turbo and a few other things...if they cant fix it in 3 trys....try to find a lawyer and get yourself a new speed3
 
bucking...surging.... sounds like a leaky stock BPV !! stealerships are stupid, you sir have an air leak somewhere..... or the MAF is not plugged in !!
 
The car is bone stock. The first time I had it in was for the engine bolt recall and running bad. Of course it ran like a champ for the last 150 miles while waiting a week and a half to get it in to check it out, no CEL. Mechanic didn't notice surging. I expected that. Second time in, CEL on, was determined to be throttle position sensor. That took a week and a half to get from Japan. The CEL came on again, on my trip to replace said sensor. But after replacing sensor, no change. Car left there for the weekend. Service person said they will have to get engineering involved. Whatever that means. While pulling my stuff out of the Speed3, they had it hooked up to a big ass cable. Something smelled hot, like burning wires. I'm thinking, just burn b****. They have an exact copy setting on the showroom floor. Rental car is a new Mazda 6. Which after 300 miles, I'm really starting to like. But I will not pay for till I get any satisfaction or redemption from the worst new car experience I've ever had. Sorry for the long post. Can anybody give me contacts direct to Mazda? I realize there are a lot of channels to to weed thru, but if the manager of the dealership dosen't give me any satisfaction the next time I go in there. I will be talking to a lawyer.
 
I guess taking the car to another dealership is not an option?
i know this is frustrating, but your not out of A car, just your car. I'm by no means protecting the dealership, but hey they usually hire the newest guy to pay them the least and well those guys just don't give a s***.

I would walk in the back and watch the mechs do their job and explain the problem to you. It could very well be a ghost in the wiring.
I doubt a leaky BPV would cause this unless it was leaking to atomosphere.
I would defeintley call Mazda USA and start documenting your complaints and concerns. Besure to name people that have helped and not helped you. I would also check local laws for lemon cars. I believe most states say 3 or more times for the exact same problem or a Certain amount of time the car has been in service. the latter is more difficult cause it usually takes more than a year and well documented work write ups.

good luck

Oh and TREES, your a dumbass
 
Do not provide legal advice if you aren't a lawyer. And even then, a lawyer would stay quiet and consult you in private.

This isn't a lemon-law case yet. Though it varies from state to state, a manufacturer is typically given a reasonable amount of time and a reasonable number of attempts to correct the problem, and the problem must be either a safety, driveability, or security concern for it to be taken seriously. Most small problems (like a squeak in a seat for instance) simply will not be enough to condemn the car to lemon-status. Now then, your situation is clearly safety and driveability concerned, so you are within range of making a case if you so choose. The thing about it is you must allow them to try to make it better.

I will also recommend calling MAZDA usa, using the number found on your MAZDA membership cards (also known as Roadside Assistance), 800-866-1998. Tell them your concern, and calmly state your issue with the dealership. I had good luck talking with them, but then again my dealership rocks to begin with (thanks Cedric.)

I'd also recommend looking for a boost leak, or a missing connection somewhere. You can always tell the dealerships and independent repair shops that have no clue how to diagnose, because they will start replacing parts and hoping for the fix. Reality states that this is EVENTUALLY going to fix the problem, at least temporarily. But, true diagnostics involves isolation and knowledge of system theory. A good diagnostics expert will break down the possibles, and eliminate the probables, and get to the likely cause quickly.

A CEL or a Mode$06 (misfire data screen) will help me here, or at least a run-through of what the computer is recording during these misfire/buck/jerk moments. Without being there and without that information, my guess is on a boost leak, or a swirl valve problem. But thats just a guess.
 
Take it to another dealer AND CALL MAZDA.. tell them your situation and ask them to refer you to dealer and have THEM contact service manager before you arrive....
 
Thanks for the replies, I'm slooow to reply, sorry. The car was at the dealer for 4 full working days and after replacing throttle sensor and consulting
"engineers". They determined that I was using the wrong gas. Something about the alcohol in the gas boiling. I was told to use Shell Premium. I've always used BP or Sunoco Premium. After just about running it out to get rid of the old stuff, I've now put in 28 gallons of Shell V power. I've kept the receipts. It runs better, runs like hell when you hammer on it. But still bucks and carries on when cold and under light load. Plus the CEL light is on again. Just for fun, I'll try a different Shell dealer next time. I'll give that and the dealer one more chance. This car makes me wish I would of purchased the Subaru WRX I was looking at. I think I'll call the Mazda # and tell them I'm broke down in my driveway.
 
That would be a mis-diagnosis. Fuel is a closely regulated commodity, and has very little variance from brand to brand. This is what I call "Passing the Buck."

Again, not providing legal advice here...but I'd go back to square one with Mazda USA, and tell them that you are completely unhappy with what has gone on so far, and you want resolution. BTW, I think you'd be happy with another MS3, they are simply great cars.
 
The car has been running a little better than it was before I took it in last time. It still bucks and surges at say 65, just not quite as bad. I too think the gas thing is BS. I'm sure they redid the computer. I wind it out now in
4th and 5th to say 120, it flat out hauls ass. Once you get past the stumbles. I rarely drive over 75. But I live by a desolate 4 lane and at 6am with no traffic in sight, Yee Haa Cooter this car is a blast.
I'm going to make yet another call to the dealer later on today and tell them 35 gallons of Shell Premium has not fixed it, and yet another CEL. I'll see what service has to say, and then ask for the manager. They do have an exact replica of my car in the showroom. I'm usually pretty laid back, but when I take this car back to the dealer again. Somebody in management is going to hear me vent. Last week a day after I got the car back. The dealer called and asked me how I liked my service. I said it still runs like crap, and said "This is Mazdaspeed, it's supposed to be Mazda's best and run right"
The girl was like duh, I'll let them know.
 
This is modern car, and as such there is no tolerance for drivability issues in the poweband. As an owner of a new car, you should not be forced to "drive around" a serious issue such as this.

Every once in a while, I wonder if the ECU is pulling timing, causing that effect. I imagine it might be the sensitive measurement sensors, like the air temp, MAP, or MAF that are sending readings to the ECU, and the ECU is adjusting. Air temps can change quickly here in Vegas, especially when you drive by a pond or other small body of water. This probably confuses the ECU sometimes.
 
I am wondering if he is punching it in 5th or 6th running between 60 and 75. If so, then of course you are going to bog the car out as you are flooding the car with gas.
 
I am NOT bogging it. Shouldn't flood it if I did. Just under light loads and and when I first put my foot in it, it stumbles.
 

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