so so 1/4 MILE TRACK times

[HondaToMazda]

Hehe, is it possible to get the 60ft time that he got running stock boost?

 

[ForceFed]

Hehe, is it possible to get the 60ft time that he got running stock boost?

It is actually easier to hit those 60 ft. times with a stock MSP.
And yes you can get those 60 ft. with a stock MSP,I have done it.
When you up the boost is when it make them harder to acheive.
The P5 will prob pull a 2.2 60 ft. cosistently because all of the power is going to hte ground and not to tire spin.
I know of at least one P5 member here that pulls 2.2 60 ft. with a stock P5.
My .2 cents
Matt

 

[Darin]

wow...yeah, 5th gear is a BIG no-no, unless you are trapping at over 110 or so...I'm guessing the gearing of the car allows 4th to be ridden to well over 100mph. I'd hope so

But telling him to redline it is'nt always the best thing. I think it'd be MORE helpful to say "Try shifting at different points".

for my PGT (On Drag Radials)

Launch - 4000

Shift to 2nd: 7000
Shift to 3rd 6500
Shift to 4th 6000

That's what has produced the best results for me.

See my #4 in the list I 1st posted....

 

[HondaToMazda]

It is actually easier to hit those 60 ft. times with a stock MSP.
And yes you can get those 60 ft. with a stock MSP,I have done it.
When you up the boost is when it make them harder to acheive.
The P5 will prob pull a 2.2 60 ft. cosistently because all of the power is going to hte ground and not to tire spin.
I know of at least one P5 member here that pulls 2.2 60 ft. with a stock P5.
My .2 cents
Matt

Matt,
What do you think I should launch at? Is it recommened to warm up the tires as well? Would there be any benefit as well to spool up the turbo before the 3rd light hits?

 

[Darin]

do NOT do a burn out unless you have race tires...simply chirp the tires...do NOT drive thru the water box...

How can you spool the turbo with the clutch pushed in???

 

[1FASTMP5]

do NOT do a burn out unless you have race tires...simply chirp the tires...do NOT drive thru the water box...

How can you spool the turbo with the clutch pushed in???

why do you say not to burn out? i always do on my stock tires... do you think id grip better if i diddnt? i do spin alot in first gear, but then again my cars not stock.

 

[ForceFed]

Matt,
What do you think I should launch at? Is it recommened to warm up the tires as well? Would there be any benefit as well to spool up the turbo before the 3rd light hits?

Well I would launch at whatever RPM keeps your car from going into a bog at the line.I would suggest at around 4K RPM to start with.You will get a little wheel spin and maybe some wheel hop but ride it out.If you back out of the gas you will lose even more time than if you ride out the wheel spin.Try to keep the wheel spin to a minimun though.Then hammer 2cd run it to around 6300-6500 and then hammer 3rd.repeat and do the same with 4th.
Remember the slower you shift will make your e.t.'s slower so you need to be well practiced at shifting.Our trannies are not the easiest to master but it can be done.I still have a little trouble with third on occasion but not that often.Kepp everthing smooth and consistant or your e.t.'s WILL suffer.
Try this and let me know how it works out!
Matt

 

[ForceFed]

Oh!
GO AROUND THE WATER BOX!
DO NOT GET YOUR TIRES WET!
I have tried just turning the tires over dry just to clean them off and I have also just pulled straight up to the line ,and both netted the same results!
It is really up to you.
Try both and see what works the best for you!
Matt

 

[Darin]

why do you say not to burn out? i always do on my stock tires... do you think id grip better if i diddnt? i do spin alot in first gear, but then again my cars not stock.

Radial street tires are not the same as slicks, etc...Doing a big ol burn out won't help you get any more traction.

Here's a GREAT Newb Drag Race FAQ...The guy who made it, Ross Lapkoff is a racing god.

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/5335/dragfaq.htm

If you have slicks, yes. If you have radials, no. Why? With regular street radials, when you drive through the waterbox and proceed to do your burnout, the water inside the tread does not get burnt off. Then when you are staged and waiting for the lights to drop, the water can drip out of the tread, under the tire, and harm your launch more than the burnout helped it. If you have slicks, do it up!

 

[goonsquad]

If you have radials or drag radials and do not burnout, drive around the outside of the water box (or as much as possible). After you have passed the water box, get back on the lane and line up the car with the end of the track. Then raise the engine to 3000 or so RPMs. Pop the clutch and let the tires spin a few times. When they start to grab, let off the throttle and disengage the clutch. The difference from a burnout is the amount of time, the revolution speed of the tires, and the water. This will just clean the tires and kind of heat them.

...ie tame version of a burnout. I don't see how heating up your tires would not help if you have radials.

 

[goonsquad]

6) Stage DEEP

A shallow stage is when your front tire barely breaks the Stage beam. As such, you are not far into the Stage beam, or "shallow". A deep stage occurs when you stage normally (Pre-Stage, roll forward to light the Stage bulbs) and then continue to roll forward until the Pre-Stage bulbs go off. Now your front tire is far into the Stage beam, or you are "deep" in the beam.

The deeper you stage, the less rollout there is. Rollout is the time it takes your car to re-connect the Stage beam. Therefore, a deep stage will drop your R/T. Be careful though, while deep staging it is easy to redlight!

Since a shallow stage puts the bulk of the tire behind the Stage beam, there is a slight "running start" to the ET timer. Remember, the ET timer starts when you re-connect the Stage beam. Since you have an extra foot or so, you are already moving when the ET timer starts.

A deep stage can lower your R/T, but takes away from this because the tires are more in front of the Stage beam. Say that in a deep stage it only takes the tire rolling 4" to reconnect the beam. Compared to the above shallow stage, you are losing about an 8" rolling start on the timer.

In effect, the shallow stage will offer a slightly quicker ET. This is not necessarily at the cost of a slower R/T either. You will just need to leave sooner to make up for the difference in roll-out.

Doesn't it make sense that staging deep COULD improve your R/T but it will most likely make your 1/4 elapsed time worse?

 

[ForceFed]

Re: Re: THANKS

well your car was EXTREMELY hot!! if you had cooled it down, you would have hit 14's....

Ok this is half true!
I'll tell you why.
Turbos work off the principle of heat.A cool motor will produce better times to an extent on a turbo motor.If you let the car cool too much then the scavenging effect of the exhaust will be dropped and will lead to slower spool up times.There is a happy medium.You need the turbo warm but the air intake charge cool.So yes ,ice may help a little but don't expect to gain much as there is not a good spot on out cars to put the ice.I actually have to open the bag and phsically put the on the itake by hand or pour it,because there isn't enough room to put the bag.
I have tried to cool the motor off completely and result were worse than if the car was warm but not hot.So I would let the car cool but not for an excessive amount of time.You want the turbo warm but the intake and piping still cool to the touch.
This is the happy medium !
Matt

 

[Darin]

Doesn't it make sense that staging deep COULD improve your R/T but it will most likely make your 1/4 elapsed time worse?

Yeah - I should have told him to stage SHALLOW..

RT has nothing to do w/ ET...the two aren't connected. Deep staging can improve your RT, which only helps in Bracket racing. I think it could raise your ET because you wouldn't have the benefit of a tiny rolly start before the timer starts.

Make sense?

 

[goonsquad]

Yeah - I should have told him to stage SHALLOW..

RT has nothing to do w/ ET...the two aren't connected. Deep staging can improve your RT, which only helps in Bracket racing. I think it could raise your ET because you wouldn't have the benefit of a tiny rolly start before the timer starts.

Make sense?

Perfect sense

 

[1FASTMP5]

Radial street tires are not the same as slicks, etc...Doing a big ol burn out won't help you get any more traction.

Here's a GREAT Newb Drag Race FAQ...The guy who made it, Ross Lapkoff is a racing god.

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/5335/dragfaq.htm

sweet thanks! oh man are my times going to get better!

 

[HAIL-MY-SPEED]

I like to say Thank YOU to everyone who helped me out....

With the great advise I got I am sure I will hit the 14's...

I have alot more work to do to my HAILED up speed
and I can't wait to drop my times...

PS For my first thread this one was not bad!!!

 

[redrims]

Well I would launch at whatever RPM keeps your car from going into a bog at the line.I would suggest at around 4K RPM to start with.You will get a little wheel spin and maybe some wheel hop but ride it out. If you back out of the gas you will lose even more time than if you ride out the wheel spin.Try to keep the wheel spin to a minimun though.

So if my wheels start spinning, just ride it all the way out? I thought that would be worse.

 

[JDM Sam]

you dont burn out street tires because they are designed to withstand heat. the potenzas have a temp rating meaning it can withstand high heat under long driving conditions. heating them up does nothing but make them break down faster.

 

[tddelsol]

this is for all of you that come home from the track with long faces and despair my first time at the track was in my speed and i ran a 16.2 so you cant be worse than me

oh yeah and how the hell do you miss the water box i cant carry my car over it

 

[goonsquad]

this is for all of you that come home from the track with long faces and despair my first time at the track was in my speed and i ran a 16.2 so you cant be worse than me

oh yeah and how the hell do you miss the water box i cant carry my car over it

go around it