So My Girlfriends Car Has Problems...

beyer118

Member
:
2005 Mazda 3S Hatch
So here is the jist of what I have going on. She purchased a 2005 MAzda 3 S Automatic Hatch a little over a year ago. The car just had all the fluids flushed and what not right before she bought it. It has about 100k on it now. The car has light modifications done to it, a cat back MagnaFlow exhaust, Eibach lowering springs, and that's about it. Mostly the car is stock. The car has a few odd symptoms going on and I have my theories but I figured I would pick the brains of some forum members to see if anyone else had some ideas.

There are what seem to be three issues happening with the car but for all I can tell they may all be related.

First issue is a loud clunk from the drive train when the car is put in gear. It sounds a lot like it is coming from the differential where the axles spline in to it. The clunk seems to comes from both axles, one clunk for each that is audible, but the axles themselves dont appear to have any play in them. When you get in the car in the morning after it has been sitting all night, start the car, foot on the brake, and shift it in to reverse you hear two loud clunks before the car moves, while stationary and still on the brakes. I have heard a couple issues that can cause this. One is the "driveline spacer" that I've heard about. The other I read was about the transmission fluid being over filled. I have a feeling the later may have something to do with it seeing as how it was just flushed and I think when cold the fluid is supposed to be at the bottom line of the ATF dipstick, not the full line.

Second, the car feels a lot like it has a turbo on it with a lot of lag. For example, when accelerating from a stop the car is somewhat sluggish off the line, however smooth, and as the RPMs rise the car seems to pull harder. Above 4k RPMs is where the car really pulls like i feel it should. I have a feeling possibly an incorrect fluid or fluid level could be causing the torque converter to not lock up as it should perhaps?

Third, the car surges a lot under cruise control. It feels as though someone is rolling in to the gas pedal and back out every 2 seconds when set to 60mph on a flat road. I was thinking maybe the torque converter lock up could have something to do with that too. You can also watch the rpms surge 100-200 rpm while it is surging. I have also heard of distorted ABS speed sensor signals causing this too but he tires are too noisy to really tell if its losing a wheel bearing or something.

I just replaced both her trailing arm bushings to get rid of her HUGE clunk over bumps (from the trailing arm actually hitting the car) so I would love to get rid of these last three issues to help her fall back in love with the car. She is worried she is going to need a transmission soon and I am hoping that is not the case.

My plan is to flush out the transmission fluid, make sure the level is set right, and see how it is after that. If anyone on here has any other ideas, I am all ears!

Thanks ahead of time
 
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So here is the jist of what I have going on. She purchased a 2005 MAzda 3 S Automatic Hatch a little over a year ago. The car just had all the fluids flushed and what not right before she bought it. It has about 100k on it now. The car has light modifications done to it, a cat back MagnaFlow exhaust, Eibach lowering springs, and that's about it. Mostly the car is stock. The car has a few odd symptoms going on and I have my theories but I figured I would pick the brains of some forum members to see if anyone else had some ideas.

The drivetrain clunks could very well be passenger motor mount, or rear motor mount (or both.) The RMM is extremely soft from the factory, and a lot of us upgrade to polyurethane which I DO NOT recommend for an auto due to extra vibrations. The extra vibes are less evident in manuals. The passenger motor mount is documented to last 40-60K miles, and is notoriously neglected. Look for oil residue on the crash bar/frame rail below the motor mount. If you see anything, get a new PMM. Again, poly is stiffer and lasts longer, OEM like is much quieter and fewer vibrations.

The other two issues sound interellated. Any CEL's? That could be transmission related, or a slowly dieing O2 sensor/dirty throttle body both of which happen in older cars. The presence of a check engine light should send you straight to a code reader.
There are what seem to be three issues happening with the car but for all I can tell they may all be related.

First issue is a loud clunk from the drive train when the car is put in gear. It sounds a lot like it is coming from the differential where the axles spline in to it. The clunk seems to comes from both axles, one clunk for each that is audible, but the axles themselves dont appear to have any play in them. When you get in the car in the morning after it has been sitting all night, start the car, foot on the brake, and shift it in to reverse you hear two loud clunks before the car moves, while stationary and still on the brakes. I have heard a couple issues that can cause this. One is the "driveline spacer" that I've heard about. The other I read was about the transmission fluid being over filled. I have a feeling the later may have something to do with it seeing as how it was just flushed and I think when cold the fluid is supposed to be at the bottom line of the ATF dipstick, not the full line.

Second, the car feels a lot like it has a turbo on it with a lot of lag. For example, when accelerating from a stop the car is somewhat sluggish off the line, however smooth, and as the RPMs rise the car seems to pull harder. Above 4k RPMs is where the car really pulls like i feel it should. I have a feeling possibly an incorrect fluid or fluid level could be causing the torque converter to not lock up as it should perhaps?

Third, the car surges a lot under cruise control. It feels as though someone is rolling in to the gas pedal and back out every 2 seconds when set to 60mph on a flat road. I was thinking maybe the torque converter lock up could have something to do with that too. You can also watch the rpms surge 100-200 rpm while it is surging. I have also heard of distorted ABS speed sensor signals causing this too but he tires are too noisy to really tell if its losing a wheel bearing or something.

I just replaced both her trailing arm bushings to get rid of her HUGE clunk over bumps (from the trailing arm actually hitting the car) so I would love to get rid of these last three issues to help her fall back in love with the car. She is worried she is going to need a transmission soon and I am hoping that is not the case.

My plan is to flush out the transmission fluid, make sure the level is set right, and see how it is after that. If anyone on here has any other ideas, I am all ears!

Thanks ahead of time

First issue is more than likely a broken passenger motor mount. Look for oily residue on the frame rail under the mount. If you see anything, the mount is toast. Could also be rear motor mount, as they're crazy soft.

Second and third issues could be transmission, or failing O2 sensor, or dirty throttle body. Any check engine lights?
 
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I probably should have mentioned that i replaced all the motor mounts a couple months ago thinking that would fix the issue. The passenger side mount came out in 2 pieces, but still no fix.

There are no check lights on in the cluster at all. One light is taped over from the previous owner (looks like the power steering light I think) but the level is good and I don't believe it is still lit. When doing the trailing arm bushings I did pull a couple plugs to check them out and they seemed to be ok. I also cleaned the MAF sensor but still no change. Any other ideas? Think the fluid could play a part?
 
If the trans fluid looks like Hell, its worth a change. For ATF, I used Mobil 1 brand synthetic at Autozone. If it's really nasty, may want to pick up 3 additional quarts of cheap stuff, run that through for a hundred miles, then dump it and put in the good stuff to help flush out the tranny.
 
The ATF looks ok, still red and no burning smell, but I will probably flush it anyway just to make sure.

Any other ideas for the problems out there?
 
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