So how long has the Cobb AP been out now? And still no dynos?

just saying that piggybacks are crap thats all.... piggybacks monitor and manipulate oem sensors to change things up , they dont actually change s*** though ie. pulsewidth of the injector or timming points that im aware of, correct me if im wrong though, i havent messed with any piggybacks in a few years LOL and they sucked back then too

LoL, oh boy here we go...
 
personaly i have not had good experiance with a piggyback system. thankfully it wasnt my car. thats why for a daily driver i like the plug and play options. wether it be a reflash or an ap. granted there are limitations on all system. my problem is cutting into the harness.
 
just saying that piggybacks are crap thats all.... piggybacks monitor and manipulate oem sensors to change things up , they dont actually change s*** though ie. pulsewidth of the injector or timming points that im aware of, correct me if im wrong though, i havent messed with any piggybacks in a few years LOL and they sucked back then too

So, a flash load doesn't use OEM sensors?

There are advantages to either. To say one sucks over the other is ignorant.
 
just saying that piggybacks are crap thats all.... piggybacks monitor and manipulate oem sensors to change things up , they dont actually change s*** though ie. pulsewidth of the injector or timming points that im aware of, correct me if im wrong though, i havent messed with any piggybacks in a few years LOL and they sucked back then too

thats fine and dandy, but you cannot ignore the simple facts that regardless of whatever your opinion was a few years ago or is now, piggybacks can work and do work and they are the only systems producing repeatable results that provide a serious gain. there is nothing wrong with how a system works when what it does works. indirectly, they do the things you talk about - adjust timing tables and draw back injector pulsing. it won't be long before a wire-in piggyback or standalone can easily and directly manipulate those things. there is also little evidence on this platform, to date mind you, that doing so is going to make a real difference.

my problem is cutting into the harness.

rest assured you are not the only one with this dilemma.

So, a flash load doesn't use OEM sensors?

There are advantages to either. To say one sucks over the other is ignorant.

a reflash alters the coding on the ECU and what it does with the sensor signals being fed to it. a piggyback alters the sensor signals going to the ECU to achieve a desired result. fundamentally, ask any layman to tell you how either is different. not that simple.

The guy over on the 6 forums running the standback and a gt3071 popped his engine a few days ago. AFR's were fine and everything so they attributed it to the engine basically having a max of 350whp before blowing.

like i said, AFRs are not everything. you can have a perfect air/fuel ratio and be beyond the mechanical limitations of the engine. a lean or rich air fuel mixture or cool EGT in no way measures the stress being put on the bottom end or the true amount of physical load being placed on the rotating assembly. and yes, i do think 350 is at the mechanical limitations of the factory bottom end. it is false hope to think anything otherwise.
 
So, a flash load doesn't use OEM sensors?

There are advantages to either. To say one sucks over the other is ignorant.

dude on a piggyback fuel controller it works with the mafs and controls the fuel curve by delaying or altering mafs signal voltage trick the ecu to trick it into running richer or leaner and has slower response. with a reflash or standalone you have the huge advantage of actually changing injector pulse width timing acording to load / RPMs ect.... i hope you understand where im coming from, im not just talking out my ass here.
 
anyway back to the main subject here, im getting my AP tomorrow and will be getting re-dynoed after the new reflash breaks in for a few days, probably fri night. hope i hit 300whp!
 
anyway back to the main subject here, im getting my AP tomorrow and will be getting re-dynoed after the new reflash breaks in for a few days, probably fri night. hope i hit 300whp!

look foreward to your dynos.
 
OK guys, yet again I will ask: Where are the dynos? Two guys have said they would have them up and still nothing. I get more sceptical by the day.
 
hey man check the other forums I've posted up stuff. Car definitely wasn't running near as strong as it could haev been since I wasn't running the right AP map for my setup. Now that the FMIC is out it rips. Hope to get a dyno soon. Target boost is 19.1 psi!
 
and yes, i do think 350 is at the mechanical limitations of the factory bottom end. it is false hope to think anything otherwise.

Man that kind of sucks.....
My 30+year old iron motor popped a Rod at 438whp and tons of abuse. Were talking 50= dyno pulls, all well over 350+whp and about 12 pver 400+whp. i must have had 50 +passes at the track, plus i just beat the crap out of the ole 2.3 in the SVO.

All this on CAST RODS, CAST CRANK, and stock block. The only upgrade i had was ARP rod bolts.

All this on 28 psi , pump gass and 3 cans of torco........:D

either way i still love my MS3.
 
I'm gonna go to dyno saturday
I will show you the result sunday. Mods are: CPE CAI, turboback and the COBB AP.
 
do first run with it loaded prefably after a couple days of driving withthat map. the uninstall takes less time or you can reflash the stock like map.
 
To the guy who said that someone popped a motor and it had to be the motor hit it's mechanical limits because the AFR's were ok.... you're forgetting about the possibility of too much timing advance and spark knock, along with about 50 other things that can kill a motor that's running with a safe AFR. Although, I'm not saying that 350 whp (which is about 400hp) isn't the mechanical limit of a MZR... it probably is. It seems that 400 crank hp is the magical number for quite a few popular import motors. I know it's about all a B series, K series and a 4G63 6-bolt can handle without any internal upgrades.

Back to the AP.... so from what I've gathered so far... the AP is pointless if you only have a few mods. At least till the tuning software comes out and you can use it to custom flash. From everything I've read online...nobody has seen any major gains that were enough to run out and dyno immediately. At least.. no gains like the 20-40hp that I saw some people predicting would come from a cookie cutter reflash cleaning up supposedly sloppy factory tuning.

I'll change my mind if someone posts dyno sheets to prove otherwise.
 
Back