SMIC Installed, Boost up to 16 psi from 6 psi

warrier04

Member
:
03.5 msp
So, had some free time last night, and my friend and I installed my new CustomMSP SMIC. The uninstall of the stock intercooler and install of the new IC went fine as far as we can tell. Post install, we took the car out for a drive to see what it was like.

*note*: The car was previously running fine at 6 psi.

Once the car warmed up, I put some pressure on the gas pedal and opened loose. To my surprise, I hit (and would have held if I didn't freak and let off) 16 psi.

Here's the setup on the car:
Apex Catted DP
GReddy SP2 Catback
Injen Intake
Unichip (no BC, just 'ECU POWER' is on)
SMIC
Boost Gauge

I don't think the boost gauge is reading incorrectly. The car feels like it is running that high of a boost level. One thing I noticed is that the gobble from the intake is A) more pronounced, B) lasts longer after I've shifted, C) I hear it when I shift and I'm not even in boost (meaning, I can still read a Vacuum setting and hear it when I shift; it's faint, but there).

I did get the 60k service done yesterday at the dealership. Maybe a possibility they ****** something up on the turbo?

The only other thing I can think of is that my WGA was malfunction before the SMIC install, and having the new IC just makes it more obvious.

I truly have no idea. I reset the ECU, but seeing as all the connections from the IC install are tight, I have *zero* idea on what to do.

Ideas?
 
Sounds like that's your problem...I would first try to replace the vacuum line on the wastegate though. Those are known to crack and leak.
 
When I put in my boost gauge, I wanna say I replaced most of the lines. Not sure though. I'll check what's in there now.

I have a new WGA from ATP Turbo that isn't installed yet, but is sitting in the back of my car.

I got it just to ensure a steady boost level, not because I was originally having any trouble with it.

Is there a definite way of telling whether or not the stock WGA is broken?
 
Damn, you got your SMIC already! I can't wait for mine! Yeah, your overboosting problem happened to me as well. I installed the ATP WGA and it fixed the problem and the car runs smoother now.
 
That's what I'm hoping the WGA will do.

I can't really get on the car too much because of the disguting overboost problem, but it feels like it's running really strong.

Install of the IC was really straighforward, too.
 
I think it means when you blow into the line, air blows though. Its suppose to hold the air.
 
If you have a local tuner shop that you trust have them pressure test the wga. It could be leaking because of the broken spring inside it. After that install the atp wga. Good luck
 
this kinda sucks.

i'm leaving town tomorrow morning for the weekend, driving up to columbia missouri.

so ... anyone know of a shop along the way where i could just drop by and have my new wastegate put in?
 
I blew into that nipple coming off the WGA when it was off the car. If not, blow into the other end of the hose coming off the nipple on the WGA.
 
My money is on a bad line. It would be too coincidental for the WGA to go bad overnight and fail to open at all.
 
Im with Kooldino, but yea either check your WGA or install the new one now anyways and see if that helps? Otherwise, either a bad line, or did you install the Unichip's EBC? If so, you could have turned on the wrong switch for the unichip (boost instead of Power), or they could be incorrectly labeled as mine were. When i had my boost switch turned on, mine went straight to 16psi and almost gave me a heart attack. So check that too... The turkey going off so easily though, that may be normal when you upgrade the intercooler, i know my friends' did that when he put the perrin FMIC in, and driving around now you could shift at 2k with 0 boost (obviously) and it will make a *pshhh*.

edit: was it fixed when you drove past today? Because i heard you rev, but no blow off...(huh)
 
warrier04 said:
this kinda sucks.

i'm leaving town tomorrow morning for the weekend, driving up to columbia missouri.

so ... anyone know of a shop along the way where i could just drop by and have my new wastegate put in?

if you're heading through kansas at all, I know columbia is about three hours away from here, let me know and I'll buy lunch. I haven't seen a lot of MSPs around here, although there is a wanna be with a Protege that every time I get close to it, he stomps on the pedal and tries to get away... All I wanted was a little race...
 
i'll be coming back through on monday.

kansas is usually a blur. i hop on the turnpike and keep a steady 110.
 
1moreMPH said:
Im with Kooldino, but yea either check your WGA or install the new one now anyways and see if that helps? Otherwise, either a bad line, or did you install the Unichip's EBC? If so, you could have turned on the wrong switch for the unichip (boost instead of Power), or they could be incorrectly labeled as mine were. When i had my boost switch turned on, mine went straight to 16psi and almost gave me a heart attack. So check that too... The turkey going off so easily though, that may be normal when you upgrade the intercooler, i know my friends' did that when he put the perrin FMIC in, and driving around now you could shift at 2k with 0 boost (obviously) and it will make a *pshhh*.

edit: was it fixed when you drove past today? Because i heard you rev, but no blow off...(huh)

no ebc - just the ECU POWER. i haven't fiddled with the other switches, nor did i install the boost controller.

i think the louder/longer turkey could definitely be from the new IC. things flow so much better now.

still don't have it fixed. once i get home, i just need to replace the lines and WGA.

i also have the sway bar bushings and motor mounts to have put in.
 
so what all do i need to replace all the vacuum lines?

as in, what diameter tubing? and do i also need some T fittings? i'm gonna head to the auto parts store later, so i wanted to pick up everything that i'd need.

also, i'll be installing a MBC here soon, so probably just more tubing for that install?

thanks.
 
warrier04 said:
so what all do i need to replace all the vacuum lines?

as in, what diameter tubing? and do i also need some T fittings? i'm gonna head to the auto parts store later, so i wanted to pick up everything that i'd need.

also, i'll be installing a MBC here soon, so probably just more tubing for that install?

thanks.

a lot of patience and complete disregard for the feeling in your fingers. oh and 3/16" hose and plenty of extra T's cuz teh factory ones are wussy and easily break.
 

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