Slow to start in the cold

[Stewie]

I also live in Freddy and have the exact same problem....takes a few seconds but it always starts *knock on wood* more than likely a block heater would solve the problem.

 

[Kansei]

I also live in Freddy and have the exact same problem....takes a few seconds but it always starts *knock on wood* more than likely a block heater would solve the problem.

it does. A couple weeks ago the temps were down to -26C with a windchill of -40F and whenever I started it with the block heater in it was nice and fast.

Even with my Optima red top battery it's much slower to start when it's bitterly cold. sucks that my school and work don't have plugs for me to plug in, I should tell them it's an electric car and I needs me plug

it hasn't ever not started for me though, even with the stock battery until I left the radio on overnight after working on the car until 3am and yeah.. battery was killed.

 

[HFXprotege5]

Thanks all for the input, As I mentioned, I used a new battery from my Pathfinder (optima 34/78) with the same result and it has almost double the CCA's of the OEM battery and the result was the same. I've checked the relay and starter and all is fine. I'm thinking the P5 doesn't like the cold weather when starting. I'll try a block heater in the summer. I'm thinking about a swap to a modified 626 manifold anyhow.

 

[worker_robot]

so i went away for the weekend and it got cold here in boston (~30 deg F)...was snowing when i returned. tried to start my car and it just cranked really slow and got slower. not the usual clicking sound that accompanies a totally dead battery.

but the only think i could think of was jump starting it, and it worked. so now i'm not sure what the problem could be? is it really just a matter of replacing my stock battery?

 

[Mr.Ames]

not enough cold cranking amps in your battery

 

[tonybonekhang]

There are a lot of things that come into play when trying to start a car on a cold morning. Sometimes even a new battery will have problems depending on engine size and temperature. As temperatures drop the available CCA of a battery decrease. Also the oil in motor becomes more viscous at lower temperatures and the engine is harder to turn.

In short available battery power decreases, and power required to turn over a motor increases. At minus 30 it is very close to the point where it won't start at all. If you haven't driven for a few days and the car just sat you're even worse off because the battery hasn't been charging with the alternator.

 

[Mr.Ames]

using a lower weight oil will help

 

[worker_robot]

yeah, i'm due for an oil change for sure - and i think i want to try a new battery as well. i'll try and remember to report my findings once i do both of those!

i've never changed a battery myself however...i'm a bit nervous tampering with the contacts despite all the times i've jumped my various cars over the years. is there anything i should be wary of?

 

[RockerPro5]

yeah, i'm due for an oil change for sure - and i think i want to try a new battery as well. i'll try and remember to report my findings once i do both of those!

i've never changed a battery myself however...i'm a bit nervous tampering with the contacts despite all the times i've jumped my various cars over the years. is there anything i should be wary of?

Make sure you have enough room to work there (remove air box or strut tower bar) and remember to disconnect the NEGative terminal FIRST then POS terminal.
When reconnecting the new battery its the reverse order, connect POS terminal first then NEG terminal last.

This is because the -ve terminal is grounded to the vehicle and it prevents any chances of shorts with the +ve terminal

As an aside, in winter its a good idea to use synthetic oil (if you don't already)

 

[bazooka joe]

yeah, i'm due for an oil change for sure - and i think i want to try a new battery as well. i'll try and remember to report my findings once i do both of those!

i've never changed a battery myself however...i'm a bit nervous tampering with the contacts despite all the times i've jumped my various cars over the years. is there anything i should be wary of?

a shop should be able to test your battery real quick to determine it's ability to hold/keep a charge and start your car...most likley the battery though..good luck!

 

[midnite03]

Just changed my stock battery out. My experience was that it had very little reserve, a couple of times I just had the radio or dome light on while working on the car. Strange that it would still crank reasonably well but not start. Didn't know about refilling it, guess I've never had a battery where you do that. I think I put in a group size 34, physically a bit bigger than that. Had to put the strut brace in under the new battery's 'handle', and I reused the plastic cover although it was a tight fit.

 

[FSCatalyst]

Just changed my stock battery out. My experience was that it had very little reserve, a couple of times I just had the radio or dome light on while working on the car. Strange that it would still crank reasonably well but not start. Didn't know about refilling it, guess I've never had a battery where you do that. I think I put in a group size 34, physically a bit bigger than that. Had to put the strut brace in under the new battery's 'handle', and I reused the plastic cover although it was a tight fit.

SOME batteries you will have to service.. Newer Batteries with out the caps to fill to maintain the correct electrolyte levels do not have to be maintained.

 

[squall458]

I too have the same problem! MY p5 does not like the cold temps. I replaced the stock battery to the red top, plugs to NKG, and still it stutters during start up in cold temps. At least its not just me!

 

[Flash5]

Just got my battery changed out, starts up fine now. Apparently the person before me put a miata (smaller one) battery in...and somehow i never noticed, that depressed me immensely.