silver funnel blown out of pipe twice

ok thanks for the bad news guys

now i have to find a performance car shop and i will get the hard pipes as stated
 
All you really need is one pipe. The IC to TB pipe. Then they can just weld a fitting for the BOV to attach to.

Man, talk about ghetto. Find the guy you bought it off of and smack him.
 
flat_black said:
DaKid: Pardon me, that was my fault. I fragmented the sentence, and it made it sort of confusing. =) What I meant to say was, in synopsis 'That's definitly a blow off valve' and 'From the factory, the bypass valve is glued/epoxied in'. Hope that clarifies what I stated. Hehe.

Ahh, now I understand ya. Back on the same page now!
 
vodapas77 said:
All you really need is one pipe. The IC to TB pipe. Then they can just weld a fitting for the BOV to attach to.

Man, talk about ghetto. Find the guy you bought it off of and smack him.

i actually bought it from a mitsibishi dealer
 
I bet the guy sold it to the mitsu dealer because he couldn't figure how to fix it (yet alone mod it in the first place) so he traded it in.
 
after some research i am going to fix the problem, i was just wondering if the bov which is on there now is any good, or should i buy a better one? would it make any difference?
 
looks to me to be an rfl...common dsm bov, doesnt recirc...just get hardpipes, there are several of us on here who sell them....or if you're on a budget you could buy just the tb to ic pipe to have that welded to...def a very very very ghetto job, and i would of taken it back to mitsu and demanded it be fixed, Im almost positive that violated the buyer/seller contract of a dealership. Dealerships are required to put a car back to stock before selling it(atleast its the law in FL and OH). GF's father owns a few dealerships(Chevy, Caddy, & Pontiac) so I checked with him...
 
Yeppers, that looks like a TurboXS RFL blow off valve. And indeed, the person who tried to put that on the stock pipe in that location needs to have his/her head examined.
 
i talked to the dealer they said they would remove it and put a standard pipe back on, i am just gonna get the proper pipes fitted. i didnt know if i shoiuld keep that bov or buy another one while i am getting this done.
 
You don't NEED the current BOV, nor a new one. All you NEED is a new Intercooler>throttlebody pipe. You can see the current by pass valve is on there and re routed to the injen. Looks like this person did one of the dual BOV BPV set ups on his stock pipes. Your stalling out because the seal where the new BOV is connected has come loose. So now you've got a huge vacume leak. Once you get a new pipe the leak will be gone and your car will run fine.

If money is your concern just get the one pipe and be done with it. If you want to you can get all hardpipes and keep this BOV (welding it onto the new pipe and removing the stock By Pass Valve). However you will not be able to recirculate unless you keep the stock BPV in place and weld this BOV onto the new pipe.

Or you could get a dual BOV/BPV valve that vents some air and recirculates some back into the system. That way you get some sound and no stalling.

Or you could get an adjustable BOV like the GReddy Type S or HKS SSQQ and tighten it enough that the stalling doesn't occur.

My recommendation would be to just get a single pipe, either OEM or hardpipe to replace the stock one your BOV is connected to. Then save your moeny and get a Front Mount Intercooler kit which comes with new pipeing, or get the upgraded Side Mount Intercooler and some hardpipes. At that point you can think about upgrading your BOV, but it is not somethign you NEED to do at stock boost levels.

I have run the stock set up, and the single harpipe with a greddy type s set up. I'm now about to switch to a front mount intercooler since th Hiboost kit was delivered last night :)
 
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