Sexiest sub box EVER.

[ELEmental59437]

hate to tell you but your goign to have to and take all the paneling out haha but you wont need a spring compressor. the a2 includes the strut right?

I have TEINS on now so I know the process, but from doing it I think its possible to install new struts without taking all the panels out. its gunna be a tight fit but I am going to attempt it.


I have a problem with the subs currently. I am not sure if its the way they face towards each other or what. When I am in the car the bass sounds amaizing with the hatch down. Even when I sit in the back and stick my head into the hatch area. But when I open up the hatch and listen outside, the bass sounds distorted. I tried reversing the phase, but it didnt work too well. I messed with the time correction and changed one to 10 mili seconds and it helped a bit, but still sounded odd. It was definatly a step towards sounding better, but not as good as it does with the hatch down.

Any ideas? possible sound leak? I have thought about reverse mounting the subs, I am not sure if I want to thought because I love the way it looks now.

 

[Mr. Win]

have you tryed fliping just one?

 

[ELEmental59437]

flipping the phase? Yes as per suggestion of Ryan, didnt do anything really. The subs sound better when they are both on 0 I think instead of both on 180 or one on each.




just a blurry nighttime shot, this is that that area under the amps in the middle was meant for all along:

 

[Mr. Win]

your gettgin bass cancelation when theres no hatch to hit off of and so if you flip one speaker magnet and the phase should slove your issue, the gurus would know better, pm them.

 

[changedman]

i'd agree with senor on the bass cancellation-
hmm.

 

[Iconoclast]

operation keeps timing out

 

[ELEmental59437]

I know, the server is down. Got overloaded or something.. it shall return.

 

[Poseur]

The cotton fleece is NOT the outer layer. Its the basis of the mold. You only use it to define a shape and then build fiberglass on it.

RIght, but what then is the stuff that appears to be stretched over the top of your box int he pics just prior to the painted ones? I asked this before, and thought I was told that was cotton fleece as wlel. miscomm possibly, butyea. It's entirely likely I'm just smoking crack as well..

 

[sndsgood]

i wouldn't worry to much about how it sounds with the hatch up. unless that is how u normally drive. one thing is your probably gain about 2-3dbs from the bass canceling off the hatch (one of the advantages to hatchbacks) if u flip one sub over and then reverse the polarity it will be playing exactly the same as it was before, there will be no change.

 

[Mr. Win]

the guru has spoken haha see i wasnt sure so theres your answer, if you wanna show it tell to take a sit in the car.

 

[LinuxRacr]

Damn man, the next time I see your car, it's gonna have sticky white s*** in the tailpipe! (hitit)

 

[sndsgood]

just noticed you said u were messing with time delay. u really shouldn't need any time delay for the subs since they are furthest from you, time delay should be left to the mids and highs. any time delay between the two subs would be so minimal as to be uneeded

 

[ELEmental59437]

Poseur, the greyish stuff is primer on top of bondo, the pinkish stuff is really rough bondo, the black stuff is the cotton fleece and resin that makes the bottom layer/mold.

just noticed you said u were messing with time delay. u really shouldn't need any time delay for the subs since they are furthest from you, time delay should be left to the mids and highs. any time delay between the two subs would be so minimal as to be uneeded

Yeah I know, I was just messing with it to see if it would help. I also noticed each sub does it individually (when I put the volume all to the left sub it still sounds like crap.

I think it has something to do with the hardware I am using. I thought I could get better audio out of a Sound Blaster Extigy, and while it is better than the onboard sound it still sucks. I am looking at an Alpine PXA-H510 DSP. I can go coax digital out from my motherboard to an optical digital converter then to the DSP.

 

[RyanJayG]

I am looking at an Alpine PXA-H510 DSP. I can go coax digital out from my motherboard to an optical digital converter then to the DSP.

weird that your mobo has coax... most have toslink... mine does... Coax is technically better, but more device use optical... this would certainly be your best bet... true digital output from the mobo... maybe into a dolby decoder too... then your dvd's could be in true surround (4.1)

 

[ELEmental59437]

Yeah the Alpine DSP is Dolby Digital..

The mobo has an RCA jack thats switchable between video out or audio out. I havent seen toslink out on a PC personally.

 

[RyanJayG]

http://www.newegg.com/app/Showimage...7-120-04.JPG/13-127-120-05.JPG&Type=Refurbish

there is one... btw, I have the next year model of this mobo... i have an ABIT at7 Max2

 

[Concept P5]

i have a quick question. how did u stretch the material to it would stay to form?
like did u tape it? or what?

 

[Poseur]

The norm seems to be hotglue and/or staples depending on your surface... Just put them beyond where you'll be soaking with resin as the resin will generally react with and release most glues as it hits them before it dries itself...

 

[Concept P5]

yea but u have to cover ur base with masking tape or tinfoil right
so hot glue on where u want it?
cuz i am having some problems with my glassing... just one area near the trunk lid cuz when it closes i dont want the lid to hit but my last attempt it did.

 

[Poseur]

umm, well what exactly are you going for? are you making a full box out of F/G or just a part of it, or simply a trim panel??? Generally you just soak the fleece itself with resin and go from there, are you trying to fully conform to a certain area of your car? if you want it sitting perfectly flush, what you should do is tape off the area pretty thouroughly, then apply fiberglass directly onto it. No fleece or stretchign necessary. The fleece is kind of a weak spot anyway, if you can keep it all-glass its' better. the fleece bit is generally for when you're trying to make a new "face" or surface once you've already got the sides and possibly top& bottom taken care of. Also use wood for as much as possible. it's much easier to span a distance with wood than glass, and much stronger for flat areas.