Severe hesitation and or lagging

update: so if i rev the engine to 6k and put it back in gear , when i floor it after that the car puts me in my seat! after i shut the car off or after a whille of not flooring it itll go back to the slow car lol
 
Another update:when in driving normal and I put the clutch in the afrs go up to 11 and build their way up to 15 to idle. The car doesn't bog down or anything , if I didn't have a af guage I wouldn't know it was rich for a second
 
Another update:when in driving normal and I put the clutch in the afrs go up to 11 and build their way up to 15 to idle. The car doesn't bog down or anything , if I didn't have a af guage I wouldn't know it was rich for a second
dude i get the same problems when im in the highway and step on it it hesitates like if its not releasing power it feels like something holds itbought ew spark plugs and new cables didnt fix it idk what else to do
 
Is it possible that by timing belt is off some? I recently had it replaced when I rebuilt the engine and I guess now that I think of it , it wasn't slow until then
 
Sounds like I have the same problem as well, it feels laggy and underpowered and sometimes as the turbo starts boosting the car will "burp" or hiccup really hard. I have changed coil packs...plugs... And Crank sensor! The timing was advancing but it's ok now. The car is completely stock. It has a new motor installed by Mazda with less than 3k on it. There are no check engine lights. I am gonna check the fuel pump today but other than that I have no idea. Also sometimes while it is lagging it feels like it has a weird "shuttery" feeling. I don't know if car has been reflashed, but it's bone stock. Lol if there is a fix.... Let me know. Chuckdbd@live.com
 
Sounds like I have the same problem as well, it feels laggy and underpowered and sometimes as the turbo starts boosting the car will "burp" or hiccup really hard. I have changed coil packs...plugs... And Crank sensor! The timing was advancing but it's ok now. The car is completely stock. It has a new motor installed by Mazda with less than 3k on it. There are no check engine lights. I am gonna check the fuel pump today but other than that I have no idea. Also sometimes while it is lagging it feels like it has a weird "shuttery" feeling. I don't know if car has been reflashed, but it's bone stock. Lol if there is a fix.... Let me know. Chuckdbd@live.com
sounds just mine i doubt it will be the fuel pump??
 
You need a piggyback ECU if you want a cheap solution to the hestiation. If you plan a big build in the future you may want to invest in a standalone EMS but I don't consider a DD MSP a candidate for a standalone.
I have the SSAFC and it's the most popular choice for MSP owners, relatively cheap and the stock ECU won't learn around it.
 
You need a piggyback ECU if you want a cheap solution to the hestiation. If you plan a big build in the future you may want to invest in a standalone EMS but I don't consider a DD MSP a candidate for a standalone.
I have the SSAFC and it's the most popular choice for MSP owners, relatively cheap and the stock ECU won't learn around it.
everyine is trying to reccomend ssarc, but i have it so it doesnt help at all. the power band was smoother for a while, but now when the engine temp is warm it hesitate throughout the whole rpm band
 
You need a piggyback ECU if you want a cheap solution to the hestiation. If you plan a big build in the future you may want to invest in a standalone EMS but I don't consider a DD MSP a candidate for a standalone.
I have the SSAFC and it's the most popular choice for MSP owners, relatively cheap and the stock ECU won't learn around it.
how much you payedSSAFC? i plan in building in the future but not anytime soon this yr maybe next year..
 
everyine is trying to reccomend ssarc, but i have it so it doesnt help at all. the power band was smoother for a while, but now when the engine temp is warm it hesitate throughout the whole rpm band
exactly thats how mine is i wanna fix that problem but dnt know how..
 
Not sure if it helps but I've read that the egr can leak boost and also the thing that the waste gate arm connects so can get stuck on the inside as well
 
Not sure if it helps but I've read that the egr can leak boost and also the thing that the waste gate arm connects so can get stuck on the inside as well
sry but whats an egr? so if it is the wastegate i would have to purchase another one?
 
everyine is trying to reccomend ssarc, but i have it so it doesnt help at all. the power band was smoother for a while, but now when the engine temp is warm it hesitate throughout the whole rpm band
Don't say it doesn't help at all because when it's set up properly it does help, you have another problem with your car. That or the settings in the AFC's R4 software aren't correct. I have had the AFC for a few months now and it has consistently ran without hesitation since I first installed and loaded the right map on it. And it's not like i'm the only one, not many people have problems with the AFC once it is setup properly, aside from changing maps, etc.

how much you payedSSAFC? i plan in building in the future but not anytime soon this yr maybe next year..
It was about $300 but it makes the car run like it's supposed to. It takes a little learning of the software to setup but it's really easy and plenty of us have done it and can walk you through it. The first time I rode in a stock MSP with just an SSAFC and 3" mid-pipe w/ high flow cat I couldn't believe how much faster it felt than my car which was on stock tune and pretty much just FMIC at the time.
 
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sry but whats an egr? so if it is the wastegate i would have to purchase another one?
EGR is exhaust gas recirc. it's very common on cars in the US and it's also a very common thing for people to delete. Unfortunately on these cars with the stock ECU it will throw a CEL so most just leave it and clean it. I have cleaned mine but it hasn't given me trouble, cleaning it seems to help more for the N/A proteges.

For the WGA yes you would have to buy a new one, I really like my (~$115) Forge now that it has stopped spiking which was because I hadn't set the tension on the arm correctly. The other popular choice for a wastegate actuator is the ATP turbo replacement which is about $65.
 
EGR is exhaust gas recirc. it's very common on cars in the US and it's also a very common thing for people to delete. Unfortunately on these cars with the stock ECU it will throw a CEL so most just leave it and clean it. I have cleaned mine but it hasn't given me trouble, cleaning it seems to help more for the N/A proteges.

For the WGA yes you would have to buy a new one, I really like my (~$115) Forge now that it has stopped spiking which was because I hadn't set the tension on the arm correctly. The other popular choice for a wastegate actuator is the ATP turbo replacement which is about $65.
would the atp be better
 
You can adjust the arm on the Forge WGA, and you can change the spring in the Forge if you want to raise the boost, it ranges from 5-20 psi I believe. Or you can just get a boost controller and control boost that way which is really better anyway. If you plan a big build you will probably end up with an external WG so the ATP would be fine.
 
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