SB end links?

drledford93

Member
:
Mazdaspeed 3
Is there much of a point (performance wise) in buying the upgraded sway bar end links that are available? I don't know much about them, so I thought I'd ask and see if anyone has them and recommend them. I don't have the "clunking" noise that has been so prevalent in the MS3, FWIW. I'm also only looking at a RSB, not the front.

Thanks!

Daniel
 
yes! many people only switch out the rear-sways so as to make handling relatively neutral.

I am surprised no one has said anything in the thread already.

its worth it.
 
yes! many people only switch out the rear-sways so as to make handling relatively neutral.

Are you specifically talking about the end links or the sway bar itself? I know the SB will neutralize the handling, but what about the end links?

Daniel
 
I don't know about end links, I havent heard of anyone having problems with them.

The problem comes from some bolts getting lose. I am pretty sure the problem is with the bolts there, not the end-link.

Perhaps if you searched around you can find something on the end links.
 
I had my stock endlink nut loosen up and start clunking.
I used blue loctite (242) and torqued them to spec and no more problems.
The problem that some have is running them loose to long and damaging the treads on the endlink so that they will not tighten. If they start clunking you need to find out what it is cause it's not normal.

The adjustable endlinks are for tuning your suspension as I understand it.
Like adjusting one side to compensate for track conditions like more
high speed corners one direction than an other.
Kind of like changing the stagger from left side to the right side
I may be wrong, but that is the way I understood it.
 
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I had my stock endlink nut loosen up and start clunking.
I used blue loctite (242) and torqued them to spec and no more problems.
The problem that some have is running them loose to long and damaging the treads on the endlink so that they will not tighten. If they start clunking you need to find out what it is cause it's not normal.

The adjustable endlinks are for tuning your suspension as I understand it.
Like adjusting one side to compensate for track conditions like more
high speed corners one direction than an other.
Kind of like changing the stagger from left side to the right side
I may be wrong, but that is the way I understood it.

also adjusting based on ride height to i believe. Somebody correct me if i'm wrong, but you are suppose to have the sway bars as paralle as possible to the ground. I just got them because one of end link treads go messed up so was like what hell .. ill just buy some adjustables. They don't bind like the stock ones .. but hey i can't feel any difference not yet untill i try some different setups.
 
You won't notice much on the street with a set of adjustable end links unless you're lowered and if you drive really hard. They're more for the autocrosser that will be lowered, with aftermarket sway bars, larger and/or stickier tires, etc. that would push the stock parts beyond their limits. The adjustable ones will also have less deflection and make your existing bars act more consistent through switchbacks.

...and yes, MicaSp33d, you are supposed to make the bar as level as possible while the vehicle is "loaded" on level ground. That puts the bar in the middle of it's travel, where it will have optimum leverage on the opposing side.
 
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I got the awr front end links. Now I got clunking. Anybody had this problem with awr or any other adjustables?

I bought the AWR and then looked at them. They dont fill the holes in the sway bar fully and would move around and clunk without a proper sleve to fix this. AWR claims that it fits but they are full of it. I ended up selling them.
 
thanks for the speedy reply. I should have known it. I didnt care to look at the hole vs the bolt. This has been plaguing me for a year or two. I was considering trading it in, but now I'm gonna see if this solve my problems. Thanks again brother.
 
IMO stock endlinks are fine for most apps. A really stiff ARB or lower ride height may require you to switch them out. I switched to Powergrid adjustable front endlinks shortly after installing coilovers. Some coilovers come with shorter endlink mounts on the strut - mine didn't. The shorter ride height removed the crisp response and caused the strut bushings to bind at full lock. Lengthened the endlinks 1" and the problem went away.

Few photos:
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3145674002_large.jpg

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And here's the stock vs. aftermarket strut. The endlink mount/tab on the aftermarket strut is in the same position. Not sure why they'd EVER do this on any system where the initial drop is lower than stock.
3145670234_large.jpg


Here is KW's strut for comparison (photo borrowed from Saitech). Notice the endlink mount is approximately 1" lower to accomodate the initial drop with stock endlinks:
img5129copy.jpg
 
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