RX-8 Basic Maintenance Information (suggested intervals)

solidtrance

Member
:
HIS: 2005 RX-8 WWP GT 6MT* HERS: 2006 Speed6 BCM 6MT**
All,

Since I haven't done much around here lately I figured it was time to earn my keep. My intention with this thread is to give everyone easy access to the basic maintenance requirements that most DIYer's take care of at home. Post up any suggestions you have and I will add them to the first X posts. Both questions and suggestions welcome, and discussion are encouraged. I'll start things off and lets see where this goes. If the information that I have here is wrong or confusing please point it out so that I can make this more user friendly. The only exception is engine oil. That discussion is much too large for this thread.

Caleb
 
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Engine Oil (3,000 miles)

You’re going to have to figure this one out yourself. There are too many opinions for me to sort through. Mazda recommends 5W20 motor oil meeting API Service SL and ILSAC GF3 specifications. As long as you change your oil regularly and the oil you use meets or exceeds that specification you should be fine. The drain plug is 19mm.

Crush washer PN: 9956-41-400

***NOTE TO '09+ (SII) OWNERS***

There is a change to the engine sump and sump/oil draining plug, the drain plug washer remains the same.
#FS50-21-249 Drain Plug
#9956-41-40099 Gasket/Washer Drain Plug.
 
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Oil Filter (3,000 miles)

There are lots of options available. I have used many of the 2.5 inch options and they all seem to work fine. The first time you do it yourself you may need an oil filter wrench (“F” size filter wrench). Oil drain plug is 19mm. Crush washer PN: 9956-41-400

AC Delco PF2135 (2.5)
Amsoil SMF103 (2.75)
Amsoil EAO12
Bosch 3300 (2.5)
Bosch 3323 (3.25)
Carquest 85365 (Made by WiX – same as 51365 – 2.5)*
Carquest 85358 (Made by WiX – same as 51358 – 3.25)*
Fram PH6607
Fram Tough Guard TG6607
K&N 303, 303c (chrome) removed using 17mm socket
K&N HP 1010 removed using 17mm socket
K&N HP 1008 removed using 17mm socket
Mazda’s OEM PN: 14-302A-G6Y0, B6Y1-14-302-9A
Mobil 1 M1-108 (2.5)
Mobil 1 M1-110 (3.25)
NAPA Gold 1365 (Made by WiX – same as 51365 – 2.5)*
NAPA Gold 1358 (Made by WiX – same as 51358 – 3.25)*
Purolator PL14612 (2.5)
Purolator PL14610 (3.25)
STP SMO 17
WalMart SuperTech ST7317
WIX 51365 (2.5)*
WiX 51358 (3.25)*

(2.5) & (3.25) = inches long

*Note 2.5 inch smaller WiX filter (2.5) ##65 filter has a better flow rate and higher burst pressure rating than the (3.25) ##58 filters

Technical Fitment Specification
20 X 1.5mm threads, gasket diameter approximately 2.3 inches, O.D. approx. 2.75 inches, length approximately 2.5 to 3.5 inches.

***NOTE TO '09+ (SII) OWNERS: USE GENUINE 09 SERIES II OIL FILTER ONLY***
First there is a structural change to the engines oil filter.

The 09 RX-8 has approximately a 25% larger oil filter, the mounting/screw in face is the same but the oil filter body is longer by about 25%.

USE GENUINE 09 SERIES II OIL FILTER ONLY The Genuine S2 Filter Has a much Higher By Pass Rating than ANY other equivalent.USE GENUINE 09 SERIES II OIL FILTER ONLY

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New oil filter part number # N3R1-14-302. Generally the locally source or non genuine but MMC Japan approved parts have a 99 at the end of the part number....Like say N3R1-14-30299
 
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Windshield Wipers (10-15,00 miles)

Pretty strait forward. Drivers side is 20 inches and the passengers side is 18 inches. Replacement blades can be found at any auto parts store.

OEM PN:
Rain-x Weatherbeater: D: 30220 P: 30218
Rain-x Latitudes: D: 5070644 P: 5070642
Bosch Icon: D: ? P: ?
Amsoil Exact Fit: D: T201 P: T181
Amsoil Neoform: D T16200 P: T16180
Amsoil Winter: D: T37205 P: T37180
 
Air Filter (15-37,500 miles)

You should check this every time you change the oil and change it when it is dirty. Mileage above is a guide only. There has been some discussion lately of K&Ns ability to filter small particles (read sand). If you live in a sandy climate you may want to consider this when you choose a filter.

Mazda OEM PN: 13-Z400-N3H1-9U
K&N Drop in replacement PN: 33-2284
AFE Performance Oiled PN: 30-10115
AFE Pro-Dry S Air Filters: 31-10115
 
Cabin Air Filter (30-60,000 miles)

This is easy to change and only requires the removal of the glove box.

OEM PN: N3H1-13-Z40-9U
Aldahyde PN: LDY3-61-J6X
WiX PN: 24826
 
Inspect Drive belt (24,000 miles)

Your belts should be inspected frequently, at least every 24,000 miles. Replace as necessary.

Water Pump and Alternator PN: 18-381A-N3H1-9U
Air Conditioner PN: 15-908A-N3H1-9U
 
Transmission Oil (30,000 miles)

Mazda Recommends 75w-90 GL-4. You will need 1.8L to do a complete flush. Drain plug is 24mm and the Fill Plug is 24mm. You will need to have a pump to replace the fluid. These are available at just about any auto parts store. BTW, always open the fill plug first. Or else you'll end up with an empty transmission when you can't get the fill plug open.

NOTE: You can also add the oil by removing the gear shift assembly and pouring the oil directly into the hole that will be left. Some people will not be comfortable since it involves poring oil inside your car and has the potential to make one hell of a mess. Be careful and you will be fine. I have done it this way and it works just fine.

Amsoil Synthetic Manual Transmission and Transaxle Gear Lube 75W-90 API (GL-4)
Redline MT90 75m-90 (GL-4)
Eneos 75w-90 Synthetic Gear Oil (GL-5)
Royal Purple ??

NOTE: The difference between GL-4 and GL-5 spec oils is significant and you should follow manufacturer recommendations.


Fill Plug Crush Washer PN: Y601-17-361
Drain Plug Crush Washer PN: Y601-17-361
 
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Differential Oil (30,000 miles)

Mazda recommends 75w-90 GL-5 oil. You will need 1.4L to do a complete flush. Drain plug is 24mm and the Fill Plug is 23mm. You will need to have a pump to replace the fluid. These are available at just about any auto parts store. BTW, always open the fill plug first. Or else you'll end up with an empty differential when you can't get the fill plug open.

Amsoil SEVERE GEAR Synthetic Extreme Pressure (EP) Lubricant 75W-90 (GL-5)
Redline 75w-90 (GL-5)
Eneos 75w-90 Synthetic Gear Oil (GL-5)
Royal Purple ??

NOTE: The difference between GL-4 and GL-5 spec oils is significant and you should follow manufacturer recommendations.


Drain Plug Crush Washer PN: 9956-41-800
Fill Plug Crush Washer PN: ??
 
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Spark Plugs (30,000 miles)

OEM plugs are recommended unless you are FI, and maybe even then. You will need a 13/16 plug wrench, some extensions and either a universal adapter or wobble extensions to remove and replace the plugs. Be sure to use some anti-seize grease when you install the new plugs.

OEM Leading NKG PN: RE7C-L
OEM Trailing NKG PN: RE9B-T
 
Ignition Coils (30,000 miles)

OEM Coils are recommended unless you can either fabricate a bracket to hold Yukon Style coils or buy a premade kit (such as the one made by BHR). You will need a 10mm socket with a 6 10 inch extension to replace them. Additionally you will need to remove the whole intake all the way back to the throttle body.

OEM PN: 18-100B-N3H1-9U, N3H1-18-100B-9U
 
Plug Wires (30-60,000 miles)

Youre ignition wires should be checked when you replace anything in the ignition system, and replaced when they appear to be worn or the connection with the coil or plug is not very solid. The engine vibrates a lot even under low to medium load. These connections are vital and can cause major problems if they are not solid.

OEM PN: N3H1-18-140B
Magnacor 8mm - W49435
Magnacor 10mm - W45435
Mazdatrix 10-800-Red (Available in Red, Yellow, Blue and Purple)
MSD 8.5mm ??
MSD 10mm ??
Ultra PN: 14R-1003 (good-win), 11516 (racing beat)
 
Brake Fluid (45-60,000 miles)

You should not need to mess with your brake fluid very often unless you plan to take your car to the track or to the autocross course. Any DOT3 or DOT4 fluid will be fine if you only are going to drive on the street. Below I have listed a few high temp brake fluids that can be used on the street and at the track.

Motul RBF600
ATE Super Blue Racing*
ATE Type 200 (Amber)*
*Note: Both ATE fluids have identical properties. The only difference is the color, which is useful if you want to alternate and be sure that you have fully flushed your brake system.

Warning: DOT5 Brake Fluid is NOT compatible with any other brake fluid. If DOT5 is mixed with ANY amount of any other brake fluid it will cause severe brake problems immediately. DO NOT MIX.
 
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Engine Coolant (60,000 miles)

Thanks Mikey444

This is fairly easy, I did it last year. You want to rinse and flush the whole system as well, first flush with just water, second one, with a prestone cleaning solution and the last couple of times with just water before filling up again 50/50 coolant and water. The front end of the car should be placed on ramps, this is mostly important for the final fill where you will have to burp the system from any remaining air.

There's a plastic drain plug under the radiator which comes off with a screw driver, and there is one on the engine block, if you use just the one on the radiator, you will only get half the fluid out. There's no fill port on the radiator, therefore you just fill from the overflow tank, for every flush and fill, run the car to operating temperature with the heat full on so the heater core gets cleaned out as well. At operating temperature, rev to about 2-3 thousand RPM a few times. For your final fill, one bottle of FL22 coolant is enough - I forgot the quantity - put the whole bottle in first and fill the rest with de-ionized water. Run your car at idle with the heat on and keep adding water until you're just about full - all this can be done with the cap on the overflow tank off, there's no risk or danger. Remember, this is done with the car on ramps or on a hill so the front end is higher than the rest of the car to burp all the air out of the system.

Note: If you use the drain port on the engine block, I recommend getting a new bolt since it will strip a little bit with the 4-5 times that it will be loosened, There is also a copper gasket that goes with it, that one must be replaced for your final fill. Be careful not to over tighten, it's very mush like an oil drain plug bolt, I would say no more than about 20ft-lb torque. You might also want to replace the plastic drain plug from under the rad (ridiculously expensive btw).
 
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Fuel Filter: (60-100,000 miles)

Symptoms of a plugged sock are a steady loss of power during or after a long
steady hill climb or high speed run. The sock pores slowly get plugged by loose
pieces of dirt, and the problem disappears for a while after simply stopping for
lunch or fuel. Note - This condition will NOT post a Check Engine light, or store
a trouble code for the Mazda dealer's computer to read, so if you experience it, you are pretty much on your own, unless you can convince the mechanic to take some basic troubleshooting steps....

You will need a specialized tool to get the fuel pump out of the fuel tank. The tool is available at;
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
Napa: (Lock Technologies LTI 940/ NAPA 770-8001) $23.00
 
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Under construction

OEM FL 22 capacity: ??

This is fairly easy, I did it last year. You want to rinse and flush the whole system as well, first flush with just water, second one, with a prestone cleaning solution and the last couple of times with just water before filling up again 50/50 coolant and water. The front end of the car should be placed on ramps, this is mostly important for the final fill where you will have to burp the system from any remaining air.

There's a plastic drain plug under the radiator which comes off with a screw driver, and there is one on the engine block, if you use just the one on the radiator, you will only get half the fluid out. There's no fill port on the radiator, therefore you just fill from the overflow tank, for every flush and fill, run the car to operating temperature with the heat full on so the heater core gets cleaned out as well. At operating temperature, rev to about 2-3 thousand RPM a few times. For your final fill, one bottle of FL22 coolant is enough - I forgot the quantity - put the whole bottle in first and fill the rest with de-ionized water. Run your car at idle with the heat on and keep adding water until you're just about full - all this can be done with the cap on the overflow tank off, there's no risk or danger. Remember, this is done with the car on ramps or on a hill so the front end is higher than the rest of the car to burp all the air out of the system.

Note: If you use the drain port on the engine block, I recommend getting a new bolt since it will strip a little bit with the 4-5 times that it will be loosened, There is also a copper gasket that goes with it, that one must be replaced for your final fill. Be careful not to over tighten, it's very mush like an oil drain plug bolt, I would say no more than about 20ft-lb torque. You might also want to replace the plastic drain plug from under the rad (ridiculously expensive btw).
 
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