Rusted Stripped License Screw
- Thread starter twb0392
- Start date
BlueWolfCry
Member
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- 02 LX, 03 MSP
My screws are rusted like hell also...I haven't checked before, but are there correct size screws at the hardware store that don't rust? What is everyone else getting?
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- 2002 mazda protege
get a screw extracter!!
BlueWolfCry
Member
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- 02 LX, 03 MSP
Ok, so I got one screw out of the trunk, and one twisted off. I drill it and drill it, doesnt come off. I then work from the inside of the trunk, and it breaks. So now i have a cross section of a screw with a hole in it. It looks like my only option will be what Bala de Plata did. These screws are SUCH A b****! Why the hell would they put ones that rust like this!?
Anyways, Bala, can you post closer pics of your plate? what did you use to cover the screw holes. Thanks alot
Also, one my MSP, the screws came out a little easier, but I went to the hardware store and got 1/4-28 (fine) 5/8" long screws...and they don't freakin fit...can someone direct me to some screws that fit and wont rust like hell. Thanks!
Anyways, Bala, can you post closer pics of your plate? what did you use to cover the screw holes. Thanks alot
Also, one my MSP, the screws came out a little easier, but I went to the hardware store and got 1/4-28 (fine) 5/8" long screws...and they don't freakin fit...can someone direct me to some screws that fit and wont rust like hell. Thanks!
BlueWolfCry
Member
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- 02 LX, 03 MSP
bbbump! no way everyone's still using original screws!
BlueWolfCry
Member
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- 02 LX, 03 MSP
good luck...mine were turning my license plate brown
BadKarma said:
Whew! Let's try to hit these issues one at a time ...BlueWolfCry said:
Most important, and I don't have the answer right now, we need to find out what the OEM licence screw threads are. I don't think they are 1/4-28, more than likely they are metric. I've got a tool that will help me find out and I'll post it up tomorrow. If you are pressed for time, go directly to option 5.
1. Before you do the tape option, or completely fark up your threads, go down to the hardware store and get some penetrating oil (liquid wrench etc.) and a good screw extractor. You've already drilled a hole in the screw - but the extracter should still work for you. Follow the directions and lodge that sucker (the extractor) in well and then hit the whole mess up with the oil inside and outside the trunk, concentrating on the threads near the outside of the screw. Keep a rag nearby and do it a few times and let it sit (overnight if possible). Unless this screw is really fused, this will work for you.
2. Well crap - the extractor didn't work and you are at option two - keep drilling. Got a Dremmel? - use a small end mill (roto-zip type drill/cutter) and take your sweet time. With a steady hand, you'll get it out and not screw up the threads too much.
3. Yay - you screwed up the threads! Go back to the hardware store and invest in a tap/die set and you are in business. You'll be able to clean up the threads for the OEM screws by chasing them and I have a feeling it won't be the last time you use this set on your ride. Every good tool box should have a tap and die set.
4. Great - the threads are so damaged that they could not be fixed by chasing. Drill the hole one size up and thread it with your dope new kit in a size of your choosing. Attach your plate with the coresponding stainless screws of your choice ... or procede to option 5.
5. Drill the entire Damn thing out with a bit a little larger than the threads. Clean it up (file), add a little touch up paint to keep rust in check and run a new long stainless screw and coresponding new nut on the inside of the trunk. I don't really recommend the tape option, I just used it as a temporary solution until I drill out my cf trunk for my custom "boltless" plate surround. But if you do go this route, it's the heavy duty double-sided gray "5#" 3M stuff you can pick up anywhere. Don't get me wrong - it's great tape, It's what's used by the OEM's for everything from emblems to side mouldings (and MSP rear/front and DG lips). Just cut out four 1"-2" strips and put them on the back of your plate where the holes are and press and stick (this also seals your trunk holes lol). It may be wise to pick some up on your first trip for all that running back and forth to the hardware store
Godspeed BlueWolfCry!Oh - and in parting, here's a shot of the surround on my P5, it's the same one I'm putting on my MSP - but that one is being powdercoated gunmetal. On the P5, I drilled four new holes and the bolts attach from the inside. I just trimmed down the OEM screws and threaded them from the back to seal the OEM holes. The P5 has a different "international" spacing for these holes and that's why the P5 has that extra rear plate bracket - this is not the case on the sedans so at least you have this going for you ...
Down and dirty temp "tape method" on the MSP
BlueWolfCry
Member
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- 02 LX, 03 MSP
Thanks Bala and TheMan!! I'm gonna go at it this WHOLE damn weekend lol
FSCatalyst
Member
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- Black Protege ES 2.0L
psssh. Get one of those self-locking speednuts. No need to tap the hole after you drilled it. Well thats the lazy way anyways....but hey! as long as it works and doesn't look halfassed.
BlueWolfCry
Member
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- 02 LX, 03 MSP
well after a weekend, I also ****** the screws on the MSP. I bought the correct bolts and they still didn't work. So being smart, I decide to bore my own thread using the screws and the screw twists off...So right now, they are double taped on...
I feel your pain.
Some time ago I made the mistake of using Imperial screws to replace the rear plate screws.
Yesterday I tried to remove them to fix the rattle that I was getting, but I ended up not able to get them out. The OEM "speednut" isn't welded on. It just sits to freely rotate. I could not drill into them either for some reason.
I cut out the plate "frame" (not the one that holds the plate to the vehicle, but those which usually advertise a dealership) which left me room to dremel out the screw heads. I used a steel cutting disc to cut just below the screw head. Then I removed the whole license plate assembly and eventually I managed to take out the bolt shaft using a table vise and I think a 10 mm socket for the OEM "speednut".
I chucked out the OEM "speednut" b/c I don't have any welding experience, and bought some regular "speednuts" along with some stainless screws (correct size this time).
So far no rattles and a hard learned experience.
Some time ago I made the mistake of using Imperial screws to replace the rear plate screws.
Yesterday I tried to remove them to fix the rattle that I was getting, but I ended up not able to get them out. The OEM "speednut" isn't welded on. It just sits to freely rotate. I could not drill into them either for some reason.
I cut out the plate "frame" (not the one that holds the plate to the vehicle, but those which usually advertise a dealership) which left me room to dremel out the screw heads. I used a steel cutting disc to cut just below the screw head. Then I removed the whole license plate assembly and eventually I managed to take out the bolt shaft using a table vise and I think a 10 mm socket for the OEM "speednut".
I chucked out the OEM "speednut" b/c I don't have any welding experience, and bought some regular "speednuts" along with some stainless screws (correct size this time).
So far no rattles and a hard learned experience.
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