Rust Proofing on a new car.

[New Phase!]

I know there are 2 way of doing rust proofing.

1) Drill holes on the body of car and spray oil in.
2) Spray a thick layer of black "plastic" material (forgot the name) on the bottom of the car before it goes on the road.

I know method 1 you needed to respray every year (about 100 each time), and the 2 second method is usually a 5-8 year warranty on it, you just need to go back and "touch up" if the layer got chipped. which I don't know how much it cost.

Question is, what is your experience with both method? I've been using method 1 with my car for the past 5 years. Result are pretty good. However, now that I am planning go getting the 3, just want to see what you guys think of this. Which method is actually better in preventing rust?

 

[PERRY323]

For a NEW car, METHOD #2 is really the best with no contest

but you have to do this the first year you have it, before the winter by preference, my 3 was done 3 days latter and i wished i could have hurried to the guy who made it the same afternoon i got it...

My PRO2000LX was ABSOLUTELY Like new 3 year 1/2 after , when it was totaled...

with my contact, it cost me 200$ for a 10 year warrantied job, each year they check, and add some if the product is missing,

by the way, your black plastic oil is called "anti-rust @ parafine"

 

[Dre]

Method 1 by far. That's what I've always done to all my vehicles and it's much better than a thick coat of tar under your car that keeps moisture inside. Besides, when they do it using Method 1, they spray under the car too.

I've always had mine done at Metropolitan Rustproofing. Nothing against Krown Rustproofing; they were just too busy the day I wanted mine done.

Ask your dealer about their rustproofing deals. They also offer a body sealant.

 

[PERRY323]

They shoot under the car with method 2 too, and thats NO THICK COAT, thats the idea you have, but thats not what you get...

And , as i said again its a brand new car, you have to do it fast, so there s no humidity under the car,

forget that for a 1 year car they dont event want to do it!
also, cost wise

method 1, 50-70+tx each year
method 2, 200-300depend on your deal and 400 at the dealer

after 3-4 year, with a great price like i have (200) you cant beat me cost wise, and i still got 6-7 years of warranty under my belt....

by the way, the dealer do Method 2

 

[New Phase!]

PRERRY: Any drawback you could think of with the "parafine" method? As for the annual check up, do they charge you for that?

Dre: I am with you about Krown, they usually are busy. But this year I tried the one on Woodroffe/Maitland in around early november, they seems to be quick with services, I make the appointment the day before and they were done in about 40 mins time. Pretty good.

I know both method should be on par in terms of preventing rust. The thing about oil spray I don't like is, it just painful to see them drilling holes on the car and yet oil are dripping all over the place for about 5 days after.

Dre: can you elaborate on the "keeping moisture inside", I can see what you are saying... kind makes me wonder about method 2.

Also, anyone know how much it cost to get it done at mazda? maybe I can try to incorporate that in the bargin.

Edit: Ossp...PREERY.... just posted right after yours.

 

[SilverproES]

I know both method should be on par in terms of preventing rust. The thing about oil spray I don't like is, it just painful to see them drilling holes on the car and yet oil are dripping all over the place for about 5 days after.

Dre: can you elaborate on the "keeping moisture inside", I can see what you are saying... kind makes me wonder about method 2.

Also, anyone know how much it cost to get it done at mazda? maybe I can try to incorporate that in the bargin.

Edit: Ossp...PREERY.... just posted right after yours.

I agree about Krown. It does work, but I too didn't like watching them drill holes. If my car was black I won't care as much since the plugs wouldn't show up.
Yes, you can definitely bargain the cost of rustproofing. Generally you bargain the price of that with the finance manager and not the salesman. Unless the sales guy agrees to throw that in. Not that common since the add ons is where they make huge margins.

 

[PJH]

No need to drill holes - why they do that is a mystery to me.
No need to pay anyone else.

You buy a large can of Rust Check or Krown oil spray for example. There are lots of rubber grommets and holes in the body and doors.... you can spray it into youself. Just watch for it to run out of the drain holes in the rockers and in the doors.

 

[PERRY323]

No drawback that i can think of of permanent antirust with 10 year warranty, i saw many cars after their 10 years, and they looked better than 2 years car....

Even my old rally car, toyota corosion 87 with 300 000 km was in very good shape on the bottom, because the previous owner have done the 10 year warranty rust proof.....

hey, and if you bought a new mazda 3, just look under, youll see what it will looks like, mazda already used the stuff at many place...


The inspection is no charge, but you have to do it so they can honor the warranty....
And no holes drilled on my car, theres already a lot of plugs and hole to shoot in...

As for the humidity trapped inside, thats for used car/those who already saw the road and winter, as i really dont encourage people with used car to do method 2...

for your choice, both method are good, but if you prefer paying 200 bucks right now and have mind clear for 10 years, go for it, also, when you will sell the car, people will be impressed of how good it looks under! and you ll get a better price

 

[PERRY323]

if i was you, i would ask company that sell both type of antirust so you will get the truth on this one, from the call i made to 6+ places,

for a brand new car going straight out of the showroom (or at least, havent seen winter)
- 10 year warrantied antirust (method 2)

any other car/situation
method 1 is the best for you...

 

[323CiP5]

imo i think either method is fine as long as it is done properly, and as soon as you get your car.

i have method 2 done on my cars and so far they work well, i've owned about 5 cars now that have had it and the oldest being 10yrs, there has been no problems at all.

so pretty much whatever your comfortable with and you think is the best deal

 

[IchBinEinMP5]

Personally, I think a brand new car coming off the lot should have the rust-proofing, sound deadening, and undercoating done at the dealer... especially if you intend to keep the car for any length of time. In 4 years time you are saving money by getting it. Or if you intend to sell it (or are leasing it), have it done at Krown (or similar), once only...

I have a lifetime warranty for the original owner, plus its transferrable to the next owner within 5 years of original purchase, or a maximum of 10 years total if sold after 5 years.

 

[ottawaP5]

I've got my P5 done last summer with metropolitan. Its pretty much the best place out there for the price. I don't mind them drilling holes, I don't get why some people hate it.

 

[IchBinEinMP5]

People hate it because in general the people doing the rustproofing are too lazy to use existing points of entry...

 

[Seabreeze]

I had mine done by method number two (some kind of grease) a few weeks after I got my car. It comes with a 7 year guarantee and touch ups needed after two or three years. They didn't make any holes, rather, they removed the panels and so on. It takes a lot more time, and money, but it's worth it.

 

[New Phase!]

I had mine done by method number two (some kind of grease) a few weeks after I got my car. It comes with a 7 year guarantee and touch ups needed after two or three years. They didn't make any holes, rather, they removed the panels and so on. It takes a lot more time, and money, but it's worth it.

how much did that cost you? at the dealer?

 

[Seabreeze]

It cost me $300. I didn't do it at the dealer.

 

[becks]

What place in Montreal did you get it done at?

Thanks

 

[Seabreeze]

A place called Barry's. It's right next to the airport. It's about the most low-tech place you've ever seen, in fact, when I went there, they only took cash. But, they've got a tremendus reputation, and their long-time customers swear that the system they use works great. So far, so good.

 

[Seabreeze]

Another thing, they give you a big bottle full of grease to take home with you. Supposedly, once a month during the winter, you are supposed to brush some of it on the chrome and the divider on the sides of the body, and that will help prevent any rust in those areas. I figure it can't hurt to do it.

 

[MSpeed]

both these methods are good but theyre also both old. now dealers are no longer using the clear oil based jelly to spray under the car but rather a new non-oil based honey colored spray that dries on the surface and its supposed to be far superior to the old one. now does anyone know where to buy this stuff in a spray can or something?