Rust on wheel hubs okay?

[Buddyb]

While rotating my tires at home today I noticed quite a bit of surface rust on the hubs. Take a look at the pictures and let me know if this is acceptable.

My cx-5 GT is a '15 model FWD with 5,200 miles. I live in Southern California where it's very hot and dry. Only service done on the car so far was an oil change at the dealership at 4.800 miles.

 

[shingles]

It's fine. Happens to pretty much every single car out there.

 

[Skorpio]

It is pretty common to see rusty wheel hubs. Excessive rusting can cause the hub bore to get larger, which may make the wheel harder to remove in the future. It's good practice to take a steel wire brush and brush off the surface rust and prevent re rusting by applying anti-seize sparingly to these parts. I use a plastic shopping bag to apply it or latex gloves. It's nasty greasy stuff that's hard to get off your hands, but effective for keeping rust off parts. Here's mine with it applied to hub, face of rotor and wheel studs-

 

[Maxx Mazda]

If you want to, you CAN remove the rust and paint them with some engine enamel.

 

[Buddyb]

Thanks everyone, I'll get some anti seize.


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[erhayes]

Not recomended to anti-seize wheel studs.

 

[Skorpio]

Not recomended to anti-seize wheel studs.

Explain? I've doing it for years. Never had a wheel fall off, seized up, stripped threads or indifferent torque readings (and I check my personal cars' torque often)

Edit- I see some websites online not recommending it, and a lot recommending it. Again, too much misinformation online and not enough personal trials and tribulation. Here is an engineer's forum I ran into recommending it from their personal experiment-http://www.engineersedge.com/wwwboard/posts/13070.html. Again, everyone free to do what they want to their cars, but please, don't believe everything you read and half of what you see

 

[CXVille]

The rusting on the face of the hub can stick the wheel to the hub. Then you need a hammer to get the wheel off. Or loosen the wheel nuts and drive carefully on it. Very carefully.

 

[Skorpio]

The rusting on the face of the hub can stick the wheel to the hub. Then you need a hammer to get the wheel off. Or loosen the wheel nuts and drive carefully on it. Very carefully.

Funny you mention that. I remember years ago I had a Dodge 3500 Cummins dually come in wanting a simple rotation of all 6 wheels. Sure, no problem. Front and outside rear wheels come off with a dead blow hammer. Inside rear wheels... no dead blow, no huge pry bar against the inside edges and leaf springs. Could not heat it up with a torch due to location of brakes and axle bearings. Had to put all wheels back on, tighten all lug nuts back except rear wheels, which I put on hand tight, then backed off a couple threads. I ended up doing doughnuts in the mall parking lot in a 8,000 lb dually for 10 minutes before I felt a shift with a clunk noise of the rear wheels break free from the hub. I actually had a lot of fun, but kids don't try that at home

 

[madar]

Explain? I've doing it for years. Never had a wheel fall off, seized up, stripped threads or indifferent torque readings (and I check my personal cars' torque often)

Edit- I see some websites online not recommending it, and a lot recommending it. Again, too much misinformation online and not enough personal trials and tribulation. Here is an engineer's forum I ran into recommending it from their personal experiment-http://www.engineersedge.com/wwwboard/posts/13070.html. Again, everyone free to do what they want to their cars, but please, don't believe everything you read and half of what you see

As long as you don't get it on the tapered part of the lug or the wheel.

 

[V8toilet]

I do what Skorpio does + I paint the calipers and all the suspension parts inside and out including that wheel bearing hub once a year.