RSB nut

[whteltning]

Hey, so a few months ago I installed a Tripoint rear sway bar...torqued the bolts down all the way but didn't use any loctite....

I'd been doing a bunch of driving in San Francisco recently (lots of potholes) and I started hearing the bar hitting the bottom of the car...I didn't think much of it, I just figured it was cause of all the potholes and the car was bouncing.

Anyways, I finally went to check under the back and saw that one of the bolts is missing!!!!

I only recently started feeling a difference in performance...where can I get a nut? And I've never used loctite before but I guess I should start?

 

[bluelion]

go to your local hardware store and match up the bolt from the other side. prolly cost you a couple bucks.

 

[Mr_Boom]

I had the same thing happen after installing the Cobb RSB. Just go to Lowe's and look for a fine-threaded metric nut that matches up.

 

[whteltning]

I had the same thing happen after installing the Cobb RSB. Just go to Lowe's and look for a fine-threaded metric nut that matches up.

I'd have to take off the other nut though and then I'd just have a hanging sway bar! Is it cool to drive like that?

Edit: ....I mean I guess I can just take a socket wrench to the store and take it off there...

 

[bluelion]

well, it's "ok" to drive like that for a short period of time. your car will prolly just feel unstable. or see if a friend/family member can take you to the store instead.

 

[whteltning]

So I've found out it's a fine threaded 12mm x 1.0 pitch and its recommended it be a grade 8 and flanged so it can hold the torque...but NOWHERE has them! Can't even find them online! Guess I'm going to the dealer with my tail in between my legs...

 

[whteltning]

OK so I bought the nut from Mazda for like 5 bucks and brought it home....I had taken the other nut off before for comparison..they are spot on...

When I went to put the right one on, it took a s*** load of turns w/ a socket wrench (after hand tightening) until it caught....Went to put the left one on and I can see that the bolt of the endlink is just turning in place....


Any help??

 

[brooks1277]

IIRC you can use an allen wrench to hold the threaded part of the end link.

 

[Hank3]

Be careful not to strip the allen wrench hole when you're tightening the nut. I used a crow's foot to help with the process. Dialed my torque wrench to 40 ft/lbs. (what the service manual states) and tightened things up.

 

[whteltning]

IIRC you can use an allen wrench to hold the threaded part of the end link.

So I tried looking but could not find a way to get in to the endlink!!! Am I supposed to rip off the white plastic backing somehow? I pulled pretty hard and it didnt come off....

 

[Hank3]

Put a 5mm allen wrench in the endlink bolt hole (opposite side of the white plastic), and then use a socket or wrench to loosen the nut. I believe the socket/wrench size is 14mm.

 

[whteltning]

Put a 5mm allen wrench in the endlink bolt hole (opposite side of the white plastic), and then use a socket or wrench to loosen the nut. I believe the socket/wrench size is 14mm.

Ok hold on a sec...So the white plastic is the back of the endlink (the elbow?) and from there, going left to right (talking about the left endlink looking from the rear), there is the rubber accordion cover, a few washers, then there is a bolt through the sway bar with my current nut attached to it.

This nut is unable to come off due to the spinning of the bolt i believe we are talking about having an allen hole....I'm still unfamiliar with how to access it.

Thanks for your help btw..!

 

[Hank3]

Yes...you're on the right track now. The nut threads onto the bolt with the allen wrench hole. But when you're tightening the nut, it'll eventually spin with the bolt. That's when you have to use the allen wrench to keep the bolt from moving with the nut.

 

[whteltning]

Yes...you're on the right track now. The nut threads onto the bolt with the allen wrench hole. But when you're tightening the nut, it'll eventually spin with the bolt. That's when you have to use the allen wrench to keep the bolt from moving with the nut.

Nono...I fully understand the concept but I just don't see where there is access to the hole for the allen wrench...the bolt goes in through the rubber to the white piece and theres no way to get into it to put an allen wrench in there, unless you rip off the white backing which I can't figure out how to do

 

[Hank3]

The allen wrench hole is on the other end of the white piece.

 

[whteltning]

HAHAHA...I feel like such a dumb**s...I was so concerned in finding a bolt head that i didnt realize it was right at the end!! Thanks for slapping that in my face Hank!!

So it was difficult to crank on there but I did it...I'm not so sure why it was so difficult, but I don't really see myself being able to get off, especially because, even though you warned me, I may have PARTIALLY ruined the allen wrench whole....

Anyways, should I maybe get some new endlinks and get this nut off and just replace them so I know it'll work??

Crazy I didn't notice...hah....

 

[Hank3]

If the holes are stripped, and you can't get the nuts off, then you'll need to get new endlinks. I had to do the same thing since I stripped mine while installing my Progress RSB. Fortunately they have come down in price over the last year. They're $25.32 a piece from onlinemazdaparts.com + $6.50 shipping.

I Dremeled the bolts to get the endlink off - cut off from the inner part of the nut on the bolt. Pretty easy to do. And make sure you use the proper size allen wrench when you get the new ones in. I'd spend about $10 and get a set of the allench wrench bits for your ratchet. That worked out really well for me. Much better leverage and more stable than using just an allen wrench.