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Dimitrios said:
a little confused, did you try installing the RR Inserts into the AWR motor mount or into the stock motor mount?
rr racing front mount inserts installed
- Thread starter ND4MSP
- Start date
a little confused, did you try installing the RR Inserts into the AWR motor mount or into the stock motor mount?
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why did you get the RR inserts, was there too much rattling with the AWR mount ? AWR makes a softer durometer bushing (70 durometer)
I got the RR inserts from another member on here (locally) for next to nothing, so my "cost to entry" was very low. I figured I'd try them out before I bought the other bushings from Tony.
I also have a feeling that the design of the mount itself from Mazda vs. the fabricated one from Tony (which by the the way was just decimated on the surface from all the snow/salt this past winter) has quite a bit to do with the NVH of the mount; that said, I just wanted to see the difference.
Besides, every time I buy stuff from Tony, it always ends up costing me more (i.e. I buy more than I expected.....must....fight....temptation.....
)
I also have a feeling that the design of the mount itself from Mazda vs. the fabricated one from Tony (which by the the way was just decimated on the surface from all the snow/salt this past winter) has quite a bit to do with the NVH of the mount; that said, I just wanted to see the difference.
Besides, every time I buy stuff from Tony, it always ends up costing me more (i.e. I buy more than I expected.....must....fight....temptation.....
)
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Dimitrios said:I got the RR inserts from another member on here (locally) for next to nothing, so my "cost to entry" was very low. I figured I'd try them out before I bought the other bushings from Tony.
I also have a feeling that the design of the mount itself from Mazda vs. the fabricated one from Tony (which by the the way was just decimated on the surface from all the snow/salt this past winter) has quite a bit to do with the NVH of the mount; that said, I just wanted to see the difference.
Besides, every time I buy stuff from Tony, it always ends up costing me more (i.e. I buy more than I expected.....must....fight....temptation.....
sounds like a good plan, hope everything works out, let us know what it feels like when/if you get it installed compared to the AWR
Update: I got the inserts in. I just dropped the center support "beam", inserted the bolt then rotated the mount down to slide the two studs into the holes in the support beam.
I think the other reason I couldn't get enough "slack" in the engine to fit was because I had just installed the AWR driver's side (tranny) mounts just a day earlier.
Initial feel is quite a bit less engine movement, though vibration isn't too bad. and I don't get that grinding feeling from the AWR mount I had....maybe it's just my setup....we'll see as they break in.
I think the other reason I couldn't get enough "slack" in the engine to fit was because I had just installed the AWR driver's side (tranny) mounts just a day earlier.
Initial feel is quite a bit less engine movement, though vibration isn't too bad. and I don't get that grinding feeling from the AWR mount I had....maybe it's just my setup....we'll see as they break in.
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Updates? Inserts still feel good ?
biochembruin
Member
can someone please elaborate on how to install the inserts? specifically, do you have to remove the mount from the engine, or can you do it with the mount still on the car, and just slide the inserts in? it seems from descriptions that you can do that with the front at least, but there's no mention of the rear mount. thanks
SpeedBeaver
Member
- :
- Mazdaspeed Protege
How long does it take to install these? Plus, the installation instructions on rr's site are not that detailled...
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- 2003 Subaru WRX Wagon, 2000 Miata
looking at upgrading my mounts soon too.
subscribing.
subscribing.
ChopstickHero said:
I had another member PM me about the front inserts. Here's what I replied:
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Hey there; sorry for the delay (been a bit busy).
Well, I'll go off my experience here.
As far as the front mount inserts go, you will need to remove the stock front mount (obviously). That said, once you put the inserts in, I found it difficult to line the thru. bolt again.
OK, so as far as tools, I can't remember the socket/wrench sizes exactly, so I'm going off memory:
- 14mm socket
- 17mm socket
- Respective 3/8" or 1/2" socket wrench
- 1/2" breaker bar (or extension pipe for the socket wrench to get some leverage).
You can take the mount out w/o lifting the car, but in order to get back (again, my experience) I'd suggest putting the car on jackstands as it makes it far easier.
OK (after opening hood):
1) If you have the stock intake, remove the "air intake" portion that rests over the radiator.
2) Look straight down and you will see the mount. There is a thru. bolt and a nut on the right side (as you look down). It's a little tight, but you should be able to get a breaker bar down there with a 14mm (?) socket and break the nut loose. Untighten by hand and pull the square head bolt out from the left.
3) Get under the car and find the center support. It runs front to back from the radiator support to about the middle of the subframe. It's the part that has that little round half ball on it.
4) You should see two nuts immediately after the radiator but before the "ball". Those are for the mount. Go ahead and break those open and remove the nuts.
5) You should be able able to pull the mount out at this point.
Installation:
1) The inserts are identical, so you just slip them into the "openings" on the stock mount. Use some WD40 if they feel like they won't go any further.
Notice how "stiff" it is now? that was the problem I had; I couldn't get the mount to flex enough to get the through bolt back in.
What I did:
2) Drop the center support. There are four bolts (IIRC) and you should need the 17 mm sockets for that. There are two immediately near the radiator and two more further underneath.
Be careful breaking those nuts open; it c ould take a lot of force and be sure you have the car supported properly.
3) You don't need to remove the nuts entirely. Essentially, you need to drop it enough to slip the mount+inserts into its original position and get the through bolt to run through it.
Hard to describe, but essentially, you need enough clearance to be able to get the mount to install.
4) Run the through bolt (the first item you loosened and removed) back through the mount. Hand tighten the nut.
5) I had to rotate the mount clockwise to get it to slip into the two holes on the center support.
Hand tighten the nuts.
6) Start tightening the other nuts.
Use common sense and tighten the support entirely to the bottom FIRST and then tighten the mount.
IIRC, the torque for the bottom was like 54 to 69 ft/lbs. The mount bolts were like 49 ft/lbs
I hope this helps. Once you get going on it, hopefully it'll make more sense. I should have taken photos....
Good Luck,
D
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Hope this somewhat helps all. I have to get the rears installed yet.
SpeedBeaver
Member
- :
- Mazdaspeed Protege
Ok, just to be sure, wich ones are they between the 4 shown?
I helped install these on a members ride last week and mine last night.
It's very easy and no need to remove the intake or the center engine support.
It can all be done from under the car.
First jack up the car and place it on jack stands.
Then go under the car and remove the 3 10mm nuts that hold on the drivers side splash gaurd. The splash gaurd will not completely come off but you will be albe to bend it to the side to remove the mount.
Using a 17mm socket and breaker bar remove the two nuts that that hold the entire mount to the engine brace. Next remove the 17mm nut that actually goes through the entire engine mount with the breaker bar also.
Next take your jack and support the engine right underneath the tranny. This will assist in getting the bolt back through when you are replacing the mount. Now you can slide the bolt right out from the mount and with the splash guard bent to the side you can remove the mount from under the car. Take the mount out and then cut that long tab of plastic on the stock mount off to allow the RR racing mounts to slide in.
With the RR mounts slid in reinstall the entire mount back in the car from underneath. Since the tranny is supported you should have no problem lining up the bolt with the mount. It should slide right in but make sure it is in fully. The bolt has to go on a certain way (the bolt head is square and must sit against a piece of metal to allow it not to spin when you tighten it down. You will know if it is not in correctly because barely any thread will be sticking through on the bolt and will not allow the nut to go on very far.
Tighten the 17mm mount nut well and then the two 17mm nuts on the bottom that hold the mount on the engine support brace and then reinstall the 3 10mm bolts on the bottom that hold the splash guard in place.
Lower your car and you're done.
Mark
It's very easy and no need to remove the intake or the center engine support.
It can all be done from under the car.
First jack up the car and place it on jack stands.
Then go under the car and remove the 3 10mm nuts that hold on the drivers side splash gaurd. The splash gaurd will not completely come off but you will be albe to bend it to the side to remove the mount.
Using a 17mm socket and breaker bar remove the two nuts that that hold the entire mount to the engine brace. Next remove the 17mm nut that actually goes through the entire engine mount with the breaker bar also.
Next take your jack and support the engine right underneath the tranny. This will assist in getting the bolt back through when you are replacing the mount. Now you can slide the bolt right out from the mount and with the splash guard bent to the side you can remove the mount from under the car. Take the mount out and then cut that long tab of plastic on the stock mount off to allow the RR racing mounts to slide in.
With the RR mounts slid in reinstall the entire mount back in the car from underneath. Since the tranny is supported you should have no problem lining up the bolt with the mount. It should slide right in but make sure it is in fully. The bolt has to go on a certain way (the bolt head is square and must sit against a piece of metal to allow it not to spin when you tighten it down. You will know if it is not in correctly because barely any thread will be sticking through on the bolt and will not allow the nut to go on very far.
Tighten the 17mm mount nut well and then the two 17mm nuts on the bottom that hold the mount on the engine support brace and then reinstall the 3 10mm bolts on the bottom that hold the splash guard in place.
Lower your car and you're done.
Mark
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