Roof Rails

I used a wood saw (the teeth were small, almost a metal saw), you can see a bit of it in step 5.

To be honest, pretty much anything will do the job, the metal is not that thick, and the cut doesn't need to be that clean since it is hidden by the foot of the rails. But a good metal saw or dremel should do the job.
 
Awesome pics of the install! I am wondering, is anyone running bike racks on their cross bars? I'm getting the roof rails and OEM crossbars to install on my CX-5 this weekend, and I'd like to put some Rockymounts tierod bike racks up on there. The one thing that I am concerned about is the front crossbar being limited in how far up on the rails it can be secured - and thus causing the bike racks to extend far enough back on the roof that they may come in contact with the rear hatch when it is open. Does anyone have experience with fork-mounted bike racks on their CX-5? Thanks!
 
Hi folks this really interests me as a kayak coach in uk I am looking at the rails but they are not avaliable over here, Can someone advise how wide the roof rack bars are so I have an idea how many kayaks I can fit on and is the weight rating same as the manual rating 100kg or in old school 220 lb . 5 was max on my Audi Quattro but not sure the CX% will take that.
cheers MikeT
 
The rails for US cars do not fit euro cars.
Ask me how I know... (sad1)

We`re stuck with the ugly roof rack which if I am not mistaken only has a 50kg weight limit.
 
The rails for US cars do not fit euro cars.
Ask me how I know... (sad1)

We`re stuck with the ugly roof rack which if I am not mistaken only has a 50kg weight limit.

I know there are some differences for the US market but surely the body shell is the same. ! ?
 
sorry I missed a couple of posts!

the width between the roof rails is about 48inches

the distance between the front and rear bar is about 35inches on mine, and I am pretty much at the max, maybe 1 inch to gain.

As far as fork mount bike support, I use a Thule hammerhead with no issue at all with the rear hatch, well wait mine sits outside the rails, I would have to check this summer.

The only issue I have is with my Thule Evolution 1600 cargo box, it sits too far at the back, the rear hatch cannot open completely, but I can live with it.
 
I know there are some differences for the US market but surely the body shell is the same. ! ?

You`re more than welcome to buy mine to try for yourself...

The US version has two bolt holes in each "corner" of the roof for the rails to attach to, while the Euro only has one hole to attach a bolt to and this is in addition in a different position and will not line up to ANY of the mounting points on the roof rails.
 
Thanks Lassi
That saved me a big c0ck up I was planning on ordering a set of bars from the USA which I guess you have already done!? I have just fitted Thule bars which are rated to 100 kg and use the single M6 screw. I have standard width bars at present but have wider ones that I slotted out on my milling machine. Down side is they take ages to fit compared to just mounting bars direct to a set of rails . The Mazda ones are a bit pointless as rating is 40 kg when manual gives roof loading of 100kg. 40 kg would mean I could only put 2 kayaks up there 3 would be overloading and 5 just a pipe dream. cheers MikeT
 
Do the car comes with the holes pre-drilled for the rails? I coudn't see that on the pictures.
Thank you
 
Do the car comes with the holes pre-drilled for the rails? I coudn't see that on the pictures.
Thank you

Under the black trim strips on the roof are brackets with 2 holes (North America only it appears)
IMAG0977.jpg

IMAG0979.jpg
 
Down side is they take ages to fit compared to just mounting bars direct to a set of rails .

Mike, the Yakima Landing Pad/Control Tower system lets you attach a base (the "Landing Pad") to the M6 socket, then the tower-bar assembly snaps on and off in seconds. This is probably small comfort since you've already purchased the Thule system. Regarding weight, I wouldn't carry more than two boats up there. Just four skinny little bolts holding the whole lot down.
 
Mike, the Yakima Landing Pad/Control Tower system lets you attach a base (the "Landing Pad") to the M6 socket, then the tower-bar assembly snaps on and off in seconds. This is probably small comfort since you've already purchased the Thule system. Regarding weight, I wouldn't carry more than two boats up there. Just four skinny little bolts holding the whole lot down.

Hi,
I am sending this as a private message since it looks like you haven't been on in a while. I just bought a 2014 CX-5 yesterday and today I pulled the roof channel covers to see what the Yakima Landing Pads had to hook to. I am concerned about what the pad sits on, since nothing is flat and the pad picture looks like they have a flat base (Landing Pad #11). Also, there is almost nothing holding the stock covers in place, especially after you cut them to go around the pads. Any suggestions or pictures would be appreciated. I am adding this to the roof rail thread which you replied to:

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123815898-Roof-Rails/page3

Thank you!
Joe
 
The Landing Pad base is broad enough to straddle the channel, plus the rubber base of the Landing Pad is squishy to help it conform to the contour of the roof. I was initially concerned but it is working fine. I leave the pads on all the time, they are a little clumsy looking but not too bad. You want to be careful to select the right length of bolt so it will not bottom out but will also fully engage the threaded receptacle. And your guess is as good as mine about how much to torque the bolts. I just judged by feel and by how much the rubber base was compressing. The bolts are not real beefy and you don't want to over-torque.

As for the trim strips I did not cut them, just drilled holes. The strips don't need a lot to hold them down.
 
Thanks, CCR76. I am adding a few pictures and thoughts for those who are still checking out their options. I bought the Landing Pad #11 to try out and really disliked the clunky appearance and huge size. I also bought some Landing Pad #6 to compare and possibly make a custom mount for (I am including a picture showing them side by side). I finally decided today to break open the fastener package and try the #11’s on the car. I was surprised how solid they felt, so for now I have them installed and might save the #6’s for a custom install later.

As for drilling the holes, it might help someone to know about hole or stud finders (picture attached). I made one on the lathe out of a spare 6 mm bolt. I’m not sure where you can buy them but the ones I have seen have a hex under the point to help you install them. You just start them in the hole, install one end of the roof trim strip and push the strip back and forth over the finder, leaving a mark where the hole will go. Anchor the forward end of the strip when you do this, because the back end slides back and forth a fair amount.

When you re-mount the drilled trim (I drilled them to 5/16”), make sure you scoot the rubber feet along the strip so they match the raised flats in the roof ditch. You will probably see muddy marks where they were before.

I noticed that the factory paint job did not get any coverage on the bottom of those rail fastener holes, so I ran some Rustoleum paint down there. About half of my holes had rust down there already (one week old car!). I counted the turns on the rack fastening screws, and the hold-downs on the car only allow about 6-1/2 to 7 turns before bottoming out on the sheet metal in the bottom of the roof ditch. If you tighten the Landing Pad screws beyond this you are bending the sheet metal hold-downs up and possibly loosening the factory seal where it bolts through the roof.

When I put the pads on, I screwed down about 2 turns and then shuffled the pad around to get the rubber base well seated. Then I screwed them carefully down to 6-1/2 plus some and could barely feel when the screw bottomed out. I gently bottomed them out, then backed off a turn. This is with wet paint in the hole, so it will hopefully cover up what I just scratched. Yakima gives you 3 choices of 6mm bolt lengths; you want the mid length.

I just took it out for a test drive with the Yakima Control Towers and round bars installed. At 50 MPH I start to hear a mild wind roar. At 60 MPH it gets fairly loud (louder than anything else while on a noisy section of road). I’m guessing a boat up there will quiet things down.



http://www.flickr.com/photos/31037352@N06/8809687169/lightbox/
 
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I measured and measured to drill the holes in my strips and they were still off, I had to hog out the holes with a file...but it all ended up hidden under the pad.

Yes, a boat or box on top stops the howling. My bars start making noise by 40 mph.

And yes the appearance took some getting used to. I just accept it as the price of being able to carry stuff on the roof. It does make the car easier to find in the supermarket parking lot :)
 
Bonjour,
Je suis possesseur d'un CX 5 et je recherche ces fameux longerons de toits qu'aucun des concessionnaires MAZDA sollicits n'est capable de me commander.
Pouvez vous me dire o vous vous tes procur les vtres ?
Je vous remercie pour la rponse, bien cordialement, OR

Hello,

Please, between #3 and #4, still missing the picture.
Thanks.
I'm French and writing from France :)

Bonjour,

S'il te plait, l'image entre 3 et 4 ne s'affiche pas.
Merci par avance de corriger.


@+ ;)
 
J'habite le Nord de la France et je cherche me procurer ces fameux longerons de toit pour CX 5 qu'aucun des concessionnaires Mazda que j'ai sollicits n'est capable de commander.
Il me semble que ce vhicule est livr aux USA avec les longerons poss d'origine, ils devraient donc tre disponibles sous la marque sans tre oblig d'avoir recours au tunning Chinois.
Quelqu'un peut-il me dire o je puis me procurer ces longerons en France mtropolitaine ?
Merci et bonne route tous.
 
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