Rod Knock...tell me it's okay to let go

MazdaSpeeder

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Protege5 (5-spd)
So, the P5 is done, and I'm pretty sad. Even though I have an upgrade as far as vehicles go, this car was just perfect. Easy to work on, fun to drive, slow enough to thrash without getting into trouble. I'll miss it.

Here's a video of the knock. I've already had it diagnosed by a shop (I knew what it was but was in denial). Part out thread to come soon...

https://youtu.be/sXohztqMByE
 
Ouch.

That really doesn't sound like most rod knocks. They usually don't go away at idle.

Does the oil have metal in it?

If you really love the car that much and it isn't rusty, you can toss in another engine for ~1000 bucks.
 
dude... rod knock is pretty easy to fix... why turf the whole car over it?
 
The car is also rusting pretty seriously. It has quarter panel rust, and some pretty significant and deep rust on the underbody, particularly the rear. I don't have a garage or the time to do an engine swap myself, so a replacement engine + labor will easily surpass the total value of the car, and I don't have that to sink into it right now. There have been lubrication and seal issues for a long time, and they finally caught up with her. :-(

If it's not rod knock, I don't know what else it would be. That was what the shop said as well. I'm open to a different diagnosis, but not hopeful.
 
The car is also rusting pretty seriously. It has quarter panel rust, and some pretty significant and deep rust on the underbody, particularly the rear. I don't have a garage or the time to do an engine swap myself, so a replacement engine + labor will easily surpass the total value of the car, and I don't have that to sink into it right now. There have been lubrication and seal issues for a long time, and they finally caught up with her. :-(

If it's not rod knock, I don't know what else it would be. That was what the shop said as well. I'm open to a different diagnosis, but not hopeful.

It's an FS with an engine noise... It's a safe bet it's rod bearings. Remove the transmission, lower oil pan and MBSP. Remove the rod caps and worn bearings, emery cloth the crank, apply assembly lube, install bearings, reinstall caps, torque cap bolts, reinstall MBSP, oil pan and transmission. You're out 7-8 hours of your time, a tube of chemical sealant, oil, oil filter and $30 in bearings. It's be a lot easier if it weren't for those two pesky rear main seal retainer bolts... I'd just do that, especially if this isn't a daily driver that your forced by time to make these repairs.
 
I purchased my last two P5's with rod knock. Both for $500. I drove the current P5 for 10,000 miles with knock and was just waiting until I got the MSP done before I retired, disassembled and repaired it. It's sitting at home in the driveway and the parts to fix it (bearings) are in the bottom of my toolbox, so when I get back from vacation in a couple of weeks, it's getting done.
 
I wouldn't put the money into it either. Simply not worth investing in these cars unless they are truly 100% rust free.

I've had mine for sale and wonder if I'll just have to give it away. And it runs and drives well. The value has tanked so horribly on these cars that ones with 140,000 miles go for $1500. I guess I shouldn't say "go for", I should say "sits on Craigslist for weeks at $1500". Who knows if they actually sell.
 
geez the ones here in kansas city still sell for $2500 or so with over 200k miles lol but there is not much rust here in kc. my P5 is a one owner and it has 300k Miles on it with only one rust spot behind the protege5 badge. still has original clutch :p only thing i have done to it besides tune up stuff. was 1 brake caliper.
 
First post as I've just purchased my Mazda P5 this week.

I've seen engines on Craigslist for less than $700. Seem to have pretty low mileage as well. If the engine isn't the only issue, then it's time to move on. You'll spend more on repairs than its worth.

I just purchased my P5 with 137k miles for $3750. I feel that I got a fair deal as all the important things work. No rust!


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