Ricktalife
Member
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- 2012 Subaru WRX
Got my new steedspeed manifold today. It looks beautiful and I am so ready to get all my new parts on.
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Ricktalife's EPIC fails and maybe a build thread too
- Thread starter Ricktalife
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Ricktalife
Member
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- 2012 Subaru WRX
Well I decided to buy a Fidanza lightweight flywheel to go with my new clutch. I was told that the massive chatter I have is because of the flywheel and I don't have time to get it resurfaced. So I figured why cheap out now when I just spent a s*** load on the manifold, clutch, downpipe and turbo?
Nice manifold. Is that the latest version ( V3 ) of the Steedspeed?
My MSP has a lot of low end chatter but I don't think it's clutch chatter. If I put it in 1st gear and bring the RPM's down below approx. 1200 without touching the clutch the engine ( whole car ) will chatter as I bring the RPM's up. And if I take off from a stand still and have the RPM's at approx. 1400 I don't get any chatter. I'm thinking it might have something to do with my EGR valve. It's clean but it might be worn. Not sure if this info helps you at all, but I thought I'd mention it.
My MSP has a lot of low end chatter but I don't think it's clutch chatter. If I put it in 1st gear and bring the RPM's down below approx. 1200 without touching the clutch the engine ( whole car ) will chatter as I bring the RPM's up. And if I take off from a stand still and have the RPM's at approx. 1400 I don't get any chatter. I'm thinking it might have something to do with my EGR valve. It's clean but it might be worn. Not sure if this info helps you at all, but I thought I'd mention it.
Ricktalife
Member
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- 2012 Subaru WRX
Yep it is the latest version he has out. I am getting chatter when releasing the clutch from a stand still at low rpm's. If you have the same issue but it's not that noticeable, it will be before too long. I first noticed it when I installed my upgraded SMIC over a year ago and it has gotten progressively worse as time goes by. I am thinking the multiple modifications I have added caused it to give out prematurely. I already replaced my EGR with the CDM version a few months ago, so it can't be that.
Ricktalife
Member
- :
- 2012 Subaru WRX
Hard to say without swapping cars lol.
well said brother. I understand where you're coming from. Literally. I lived in Reading PA for 6 months and the roads there are crap. Michigan is much worse and thats why I ended up doing the air ride instead of coil overs. But yea I get it.
The Steed is guranteed for life. Mine was a first gen and leaked too. I sent it back to Leen and he Tig welded all the runners, deleted the EGR bung for me and recoated it in black. ALL for FREE! Then I made a support bracket out of an exhaust hanger just to take some of the weight off the flange. Came out sweet. Plus I had a little time to port the s*** out of it and knife edged the T3 flange divider. I also gasket matched the ports as I said earlier and I was ecstatic the difference it made.
The FPR thing I forgot about the issue on that. I hope that works for you.
For a turbo upgrade, I meant a T28 with liquid cooled and ball bearing. I had an IHI-VF22 that was bushing and it didnt last long. I replaced it and went bad rel quick again and it cost me $1100. That sucked bad.TBK didnt stand behind anything, but I didnt have Miguel to learn from at that time lol.
And you are correct about the IM. I guess anything that gets changed that much is going to cause some kind of need for tuning.
Thanks for being open to my thoughts. I just want to help in some way.
hey man, about steedspeed 1gen on T3 , you think I should send it to Leen too ? Was that just partivular flaw or ....
I feel this summer is the "summer" and these threads just motivate to drop $$ on msp some more.
Rick, gl with the work man, keep it up
Ricktalife
Member
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- 2012 Subaru WRX
Thanks. I would just ask Leen about your manifold to see if it had any flaws, or sell it and get a new shiny one like mine lol.
steedspeed
Member
hey man, about steedspeed 1gen on T3 , you think I should send it to Leen too ? Was that just partivular flaw or ....
The problem was with very few manifolds where I tried a different way to attach the head flanges. I quickly gave up on that method lol! you live and learn. If you ever have any problems then I will always see you are well taken care of.
rick, which motor mounts do you have? i upgraded ALL of mine and the problem largely went away. it's partly the flywheel (or throwout bearing depending on who you ask) but the reason it's so violent is because the motor has so much room to move around in the bay. basically it loads the drivetrain and pushes against the mounts, then hits a low spot in the flywheel (or the pilot bearing unloads) and the whole drivetrain drops. repeat. reducing the amount it can move, and increasing the force which the mounts push back against drivetrain movement helps get launches more consistent.
Ricktalife
Member
- :
- 2012 Subaru WRX
I upgraded all 4 mounts. First I got an AWR front mount, then recently bought the other 3 from medieval. I did notice a considerable decrease in engine movement with each installation, but the chatter only got worse. They are all 70 durometer, but considering I even put the rear in, I think that's more than most owners like to do.
The problem was with very few manifolds where I tried a different way to attach the head flanges. I quickly gave up on that method lol! you live and learn. If you ever have any problems then I will always see you are well taken care of.
Thing is that I and Signature Sound got the same version of your T3 mani , we were first to buy it before you made it available for the rest .....
Thnx Leen.
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Ricktalife
Member
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- 2012 Subaru WRX
Partout thread coming.
what? youre giving up? throwing in the towel? wow. theres no one left anymore. ill maybe stick around for destineals build if he ever stops buying parts for it and starts doing it, but thats about the only (pending) one i still give half a s*** about.
oh well. guess the boards will just be left with the people who say the only ems worth buying is haltech and the stock turbo works great to 16psi or more.
you were one of the few who stuck around and fought the good fight. best of luck with your next ride.
what are you getting by the way?
oh well. guess the boards will just be left with the people who say the only ems worth buying is haltech and the stock turbo works great to 16psi or more.
you were one of the few who stuck around and fought the good fight. best of luck with your next ride.
what are you getting by the way?
Ricktalife
Member
- :
- 2012 Subaru WRX
I simply can't afford to keep fixing all the problems just to find more. I agree it's a shame that most of the knowledgeable members have moved on. I just want to go back to N/A for a daily driver, so I will probably pick up another Sentra Spec V. It was a fun car that doesn't handle quite as well but still has some get up. There is one posted on craigslist in my town with only 36k on it and is bone stock. Hopefully it is still for sale. Thanks for your help and support with all the questions I had.
Rick I am in the same boat. Now that I've finally got the suspension all quiet, it's now 100 degrees out and my A/C won't stay on. I bought a junk yard HVAC unit that was supposed to be updated to fix the flickering and it still flickered. Then I took it apart and sanded down all the contacts and that helped, but still goes out on me occasionally. I refuse to spend another $215 on a new HVAC.
So yeah I've had it as well. The FIC has already found a new home. I don't think I'll part anything else out though. I do have two nicely powder coated valve covers and a brand new MS oil cap that I was going to dress my engine up with, but figured if the valve cover is coming off I should probably do the timing belt, and I just don't feel like it. At least not now that the weather is hot.
BTW I believe I have the same clutch chatter as you, or at least similar, but I've always had it. In fact, every manual car I've ever driven does this, even RWD. It requires being at very low rpm usually in 1st gear as I am parking the car and if there is load on the drivetrain. So if I am going uphill slightly or I wait until the momentum of the car has run out before pushing in the clutch pedal, is usually when I notice it. I believe it's normal behavior due to the load on the clutch when you release it. There are usually four springs on a clutch disc, I assume to allow some give between the engine and transmission. It seems like at low rpm the clutch can grab and wind those springs instead of simply slipping, causing the "chatter". Maybe yours is a lot worse than my cars, but I've always avoided it by pushing the clutch in before the car runs out of momentum or if necessary giving it more gas.
So yeah I've had it as well. The FIC has already found a new home. I don't think I'll part anything else out though. I do have two nicely powder coated valve covers and a brand new MS oil cap that I was going to dress my engine up with, but figured if the valve cover is coming off I should probably do the timing belt, and I just don't feel like it. At least not now that the weather is hot.
BTW I believe I have the same clutch chatter as you, or at least similar, but I've always had it. In fact, every manual car I've ever driven does this, even RWD. It requires being at very low rpm usually in 1st gear as I am parking the car and if there is load on the drivetrain. So if I am going uphill slightly or I wait until the momentum of the car has run out before pushing in the clutch pedal, is usually when I notice it. I believe it's normal behavior due to the load on the clutch when you release it. There are usually four springs on a clutch disc, I assume to allow some give between the engine and transmission. It seems like at low rpm the clutch can grab and wind those springs instead of simply slipping, causing the "chatter". Maybe yours is a lot worse than my cars, but I've always avoided it by pushing the clutch in before the car runs out of momentum or if necessary giving it more gas.
justanothermp5
Banned
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- Rust Bucket
Theres a thread on how to fix the flickering AC light, its not the HVAC unit thats the problem, its the connector thats part of the wiring harness in the car. I simply pulled all the pins out of the connector and squeezed them back down, pushed them on the prongs sticking out of the HVAC unit, and squeezed them again to ensure a good connection.
The how to has you solder the pins to the prongs but I didnt feel like doing that, I take my stuff apart to much lol
and sorry to hear about the part out...hope you have better luck with the sentra
The how to has you solder the pins to the prongs but I didnt feel like doing that, I take my stuff apart to much lol
and sorry to hear about the part out...hope you have better luck with the sentra
Ricktalife
Member
- :
- 2012 Subaru WRX
Ugh... the car I was looking at has a bad ****** car fax, and my dad refuses to help me buy it. By help me, I mean loan me money until I would sell the MSP and pay off my current car loan to get another. Anyway, looks like I'm stuck with the MSP... The car I once loved with a passion is now turning into the car I can't get away from.
So it looks like I'll have the clutch, flywheel, turbo, manifold and downpipe installed on Monday. I was really hoping to get most of my money back from those, but if I have to keep the car then it needs to run right. I am still selling the FIC and possibly a couple other items. The FIC actually has a buyer already, I just have to get it off the car.
Still debating if I want to shell out the money for a 505 and possibly a Sprint 500, but that would probably be funded by selling parts I have.
So it looks like I'll have the clutch, flywheel, turbo, manifold and downpipe installed on Monday. I was really hoping to get most of my money back from those, but if I have to keep the car then it needs to run right. I am still selling the FIC and possibly a couple other items. The FIC actually has a buyer already, I just have to get it off the car.
Still debating if I want to shell out the money for a 505 and possibly a Sprint 500, but that would probably be funded by selling parts I have.
Yeah it's a catch22. You want the car to run right before you sell it, but if you get it to run right, then you have no reason to sell it.
I remember a part out not too long ago where there was nothing wrong with the car, but the MSP was worth less than the sum of its parts. The owner had done the math and figured it was worth his time and effort to sell the parts and scrap the car. It was gut-wrenching, but it was the smarter choice financially.
You might want to run some numbers. Once those parts are on the car, they are worth nothing. It would be a shame, but any dealer would be happy to take that MSP in on trade and they won't even drive it, sometimes they don't even look at it. The new Elantra looks very good, as does the Cruze. There might be a few Cobalt SS's still on lots if you look hard enough, and those apparently will run low 13's with just a tune. The money you are spending on the MSP seems like it would cover a loan for one of these cars as long as your credit is decent.
justanothermp5, I've read that thread forwards and backwards now. I think I'll try sanding the male connector down and rubbing some graphite on the prongs. The graphite should fill in any pits and make for a stronger connection.
I remember a part out not too long ago where there was nothing wrong with the car, but the MSP was worth less than the sum of its parts. The owner had done the math and figured it was worth his time and effort to sell the parts and scrap the car. It was gut-wrenching, but it was the smarter choice financially.
You might want to run some numbers. Once those parts are on the car, they are worth nothing. It would be a shame, but any dealer would be happy to take that MSP in on trade and they won't even drive it, sometimes they don't even look at it. The new Elantra looks very good, as does the Cruze. There might be a few Cobalt SS's still on lots if you look hard enough, and those apparently will run low 13's with just a tune. The money you are spending on the MSP seems like it would cover a loan for one of these cars as long as your credit is decent.
justanothermp5, I've read that thread forwards and backwards now. I think I'll try sanding the male connector down and rubbing some graphite on the prongs. The graphite should fill in any pits and make for a stronger connection.
Ricktalife
Member
- :
- 2012 Subaru WRX
Dude jdwk you are exactly right. I have more money in parts with this car than it is worth. I put together a total of parts that are either sitting around waiting for install or on the car that could be removed and not keep it from running. It was over $4700 total for what I planned to ask for them in a part out thread. If this car makes it through college then I will probably just keep the damn thing and buy a new daily.
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