Have my 2008 CX-9 rear rotor and brake pad replaced last weekend, with a mileage around 49,800. Just 1 week before the replacement, I could hear grind noise from RR side when the speed was very low. Checked online forums and it looks like the thin pad is #1 reason. Ordered the Centric-Part rotor and pad from Rock Auto, and it arrived in quickly.
It turns out the dealer's 39 (might be) point check is a joke. On the report for such check, it shows the brake is in good condition. The check is done when I had the last oil change at the dealership 4 months ago, just before train warranty expired. After I removed the pad, the RR inner side pad was completely worn out. There was a metal to metal contact between the pad back and rotor. So change the rotor is a must. At least $130 gone for such additional replacement. Should I change the pad 1 month earlier, I can avoid replacement of the rotors. I uploaded a picture for the removed pad and rotor. Hopefully the pictures are uploaded correctly.
FYI, I have no trouble to remove the two screws on rotor, for both front and rear rotors on my car. If you have an impact wrench (mine is 240 lb electrical one), just use it, and the screws comes out like a piece of cake. I did use WD-40.
Also, it is a good time to adjust the parking shoes. Before, I have to push the parking brake hard, and almost to the floor when the car is on a slope. But after adjust it back from "just not move" for about 13~25 click, the parking brake now only request pushing for 4~5 clicks on the slope. I think now it is normal. And if you want to remove the parking shoes, just push the shoe downside and it will off easily. Hold the two push bolts on the top while pushing down. It flies, as the shop manual warns clearly. And I have one side bolt flew out actually
.
And don't be surprise that there is only one spring attached to the parking shoe, while the mechanism shows two are needed. Checked online diagram from one dealership, it looks the spring is just to pull the shoe backward, and not hold it in the middle. Still not quite understand, but as the car is in such configuration from factory, just keep it as is.
It turns out the dealer's 39 (might be) point check is a joke. On the report for such check, it shows the brake is in good condition. The check is done when I had the last oil change at the dealership 4 months ago, just before train warranty expired. After I removed the pad, the RR inner side pad was completely worn out. There was a metal to metal contact between the pad back and rotor. So change the rotor is a must. At least $130 gone for such additional replacement. Should I change the pad 1 month earlier, I can avoid replacement of the rotors. I uploaded a picture for the removed pad and rotor. Hopefully the pictures are uploaded correctly.
FYI, I have no trouble to remove the two screws on rotor, for both front and rear rotors on my car. If you have an impact wrench (mine is 240 lb electrical one), just use it, and the screws comes out like a piece of cake. I did use WD-40.
Also, it is a good time to adjust the parking shoes. Before, I have to push the parking brake hard, and almost to the floor when the car is on a slope. But after adjust it back from "just not move" for about 13~25 click, the parking brake now only request pushing for 4~5 clicks on the slope. I think now it is normal. And if you want to remove the parking shoes, just push the shoe downside and it will off easily. Hold the two push bolts on the top while pushing down. It flies, as the shop manual warns clearly. And I have one side bolt flew out actually
. And don't be surprise that there is only one spring attached to the parking shoe, while the mechanism shows two are needed. Checked online diagram from one dealership, it looks the spring is just to pull the shoe backward, and not hold it in the middle. Still not quite understand, but as the car is in such configuration from factory, just keep it as is.
