Replace rear trailing arm?

[stftk14]

My right rear trailing arm is bent and needs to be replaced. Apparently the part is only about $60 but the labor to replace it at a dealer will be about $200. Is it difficult to DIY replace a trailing arm (and then get an alignment at a shop) or is this something that should be done at a shop? Thanks!

 

[We Are Ninja]

I, too, would like to know how involved the process is...

 

[Speed3.5]

Its fairly easy, just remove the rear tire and unbolt then bolt the new one in.

I have a pair of Megan racing rear trailer arms for sale, they a bit stronger then stock ones and have stronger bushing too.

 

[solo.]

You don't even need to remove the tire. Just loosen bolts, jack up the car, take off link and install new one.

 

[Wagonbacker9]

You don't even need to remove the tire. Just loosen bolts, jack up the car, take off link and install new one.

+1.... should be painfully simple.

 

[dodgetech81]

+1.... should be painfully simple.

SHOULD BE ....but if you are a new englander or live somewhere that gets alot of snow and ice on the roads then dont expect it to be a cake walk.bolts like to seize to the metal sleeve inside the bushing and create a major issue..heat makes it simple as long as you arent worried about destroying the bushing which in your case your not worried about the bushing.but ya if the bolts arent frozen in the bushings then its tit

 

[papa4x]

I am in the process of doing the very same project. There are only two bolts and one nut to remove, the front bolt, the rear bolt and nut that holds on the brake lines (12mm). The rear bolt seems to be pretty easy to remove, the whole bolt is inside the bushing, so rust is not an issue, one good pull and then ratchet it out. However the front bolt is another matter. The bolt head has easy access from underneath, but the inside of the bolt has a square nut that is enclosed by a weld shield like thing that is SUPPOSED to stop the nut from spinning while you unscrew the bolt and space is limited as this end of the arm is fortified to the side of body by a shield that limits access to nut end. In my case (Michigan) the first few cranks on the bolt head where tough, but I it was working out. Then it all came to a stop. The nut started to be able to spin inside that welded shield. I tried all sorts of things. What worked in the end, I broke off the shield (not easy) held the bolt with a pair of vise grips and cranked like H%LL to remove the bolt (car was only up on a ramp, I did not have a lot of leverage room. I got it off! Now all I need to do is find the trailing arm. It seems it is only a dealer part. And one side is more expensive than the other side.

 

[JReichle1]

You do not need an alignment... It is recommended with most suspension repairs, but in this case it is not necessary...

 

[diabolichippo]

Pretty simple install. If you have basic tools and a general knowledge, go for it!
I replaced mines w/ megan ones and was impressed how much it stiffened up the chasis.