Removing VTCS Solenoid

[Dermen]

I need to remove my VTCS solenoid. I'm trading it and my ECU for an MP3 ECU.

Since I have not yet removed the VTCS butterflys from the intake manifold is it going to cause any problems with the solenoid missing? I know I have to plug the vacuum line but is there anything else?

From the searching I have done it sounds like the best place to plug the vacuum line is right after the T that splits the line for the VTCS and VICS. Is that correct?

Also do they make special things to plug the line or how do you go about doing it?

 

[Little Beavis]

You'll probably want to "open" the VTCS butterflys with a zip tie or something so that they are always open since you will no longer have a solenoid or ecu that can do it. That is the only thing I can think of beyond plugging the vacuum line - and the best way to do that is just a small bolt / screw and maybe another zip tie on the vacuum line to hold it tight to the bolt / screw - but if you get the right size in there, it won't be necessary. The other option is that there is a "T" in the line to get to both of those so, you can remove the T and eliminate the extra line.

 

[Dermen]

I thought the butterflys were in the open position, and the ECU/solenoid told them when to close. Otherwise wouldnt that mean all these people with swapped MP3 ECUs are driving around with the butterflys closed.

 

[Dermen]

I actually looked under the hood at the solenoid today.

So what you are saying is there is a constant vacuum being sent to the VTCS actuator to hold the butterflys open except during cold operation when the ECU/solenoid block the line.

So blocking the line at the T and removing the solenoid will stop the actuator from holding the butterflys open. Couldn't I just remove the solenoid and connect the vacuum line from the VTCS actuator directly to the T, giving it a constant vacuum to keep the butterflys open? Then I don't have to worry about plugging the vacuum line and having it leak, or using zip ties to keep the VTCS butterflys open.

 

[njaremka]

the default for the VTCS is always open - i still have mine, and i'm running an mp3 ecu, AND i am having NO problems at all.

 

[Dermen]

It looks like you are right njaremka, VTCS shuuters should remain open after removing the solenoid and blocking off the vacuum line.

 

[Shift2xlr8]

Can someone post pics of what the solenoid looks like? I would like to do this this weekend but I haven't the foggiest idea of what the little bastard looks like.

Chris

 

[Dermen]

The VTCS and VICS solendoids are sitting on top of the intake manifold. The one on the left with the green plug is VTCS, the other is VICS.

 

[Shift2xlr8]

The VTCS and VICS solendoids are sitting on top of the intake manifold. The one on the left with the green plug is VTCS, the other is VICS.

What is VICS? Same thing as the VTCS?

Chris

 

[njaremka]

VICS - Variable Inertia Charging System
VTCS - Variable Tumble Control System

VICS is up inside the manifold, VTCS is at the head ports on the manifold. VICS was conceived to increase the power band, VTCS was conceived to try and improve cold start emissions.

 

[Shift2xlr8]

NJaremka - Thanks for that, I was totally lost. I think that I may try running with out the VTCS, I'm going to try it on my car.

So all I have to do is un plug it and it should disengage the VTCS so it will stay open all the time, right?

Chris

 

[njaremka]

thats the real easy way of doing it - although you may get a "check engine" light.

 

[Shift2xlr8]

thats the real easy way of doing it - although you may get a "check engine" light.

What is the way I can do it so I don't get a CEL?

Chris

 

[Dermen]

Remove the vacuum line going to the VTCS solenoid and plug it.

The way I did it was to unplug the line from the solenoid and then fold it over the T in the line and put a couple zip ties on it really tight.

However, when I swapped ECUs with jaredbzoom he already had the solenoid in his engine bay, it just wasnt connected to anything.

 

[Shift2xlr8]

Remove the vacuum line going to the VTCS solenoid and plug it.

The way I did it was to unplug the line from the solenoid and then fold it over the T in the line and put a couple zip ties on it really tight.

However, when I swapped ECUs with jaredbzoom he already had the solenoid in his engine bay, it just wasnt connected to anything.

I unplugged the green plug and unhooked the hose going to the solenoid on the back at the T piece you said, and zip tied it off, but the CEL still came on. So I just put everything back together since I didn't notice any difference in power when I drove it around.

Chris

 

[Dermen]

You need to keep the solenoid plugged in, and when you zip tie the vacuum line you need to be sure it is tight enough that no air can get through it.

It will only make a difference when the car is cold. It won't make that rattling noise, and it will have more power. It also won't have that annoying jump in power at 3k rpm. Once the car is warm there will be no difference at all unless you actually remove the VTCS butterflys from your intake manifold.

 

[Shift2xlr8]

You need to keep the solenoid plugged in, and when you zip tie the vacuum line you need to be sure it is tight enough that no air can get through it.

It will only make a difference when the car is cold. It won't make that rattling noise, and it will have more power. It also won't have that annoying jump in power at 3k rpm. Once the car is warm there will be no difference at all unless you actually remove the VTCS butterflys from your intake manifold.

Oh ok, well I mean its not that big of a deal, I'm boosting in the winter time so I really don't care too much bout the VTCS right now. Thanks for the info though!

Chris