Recommendations for Replacement Brake Rotors & Pads?

[PeterMazda5]

It's time to do the rotors and pads on our Mazda5. We're at 91k miles, minimal life left on the front pads, considerable vibration when braking. I've decided to put on all-new rotors and pads at all four corners. I'm about to research this, but I didn't find much info on this forum. I'd been thinking of going with Brembo discs and Akebono pads, but that's not based on any knowledge of whether this combo would work for this car.

Thoughts?

--Peter

 

[Kojack]

I would go napa ultra premium for both pads and rotors. I use these on everything I own. I am disappointed that I have to move from them on my Jeep as I am installing a teraflex front and rear big brake kit as I tow my camper with it and want the extra force the big brakes give me.

 

[IAATM]

Rich at Rotorpros http://www.rotorpros.net/ gave me a great deal on four new rotors (drilled, slotted, and plated) along with ceramic pads. They've been on my 2013 Mazad 5 sport for about six months now, and I absolutely love them! In fact, my wife frequently comments on how poorly our Ford Focus ZX55 slows down, as compared to the Mazda minivan.

The Focus has a nice set of Napa aftermarket rotors and pads on the front, and I'm happy with them, but I'll grant you (and her) that the solid Napa discs on the Focus provide nowhere near the performance of the Rotorpro discs. Of course, one could argue that you don't really need drilled and slotted and plated rotors on a small, lightweight minivan, and that's probably true.

However, when we load up our 5 with the adults, kids, stroller, roof box, and rear-hitch mounted cargo carrier, and take off on a road trip, it's clear that the extra stopping power is still there and the brakes works amazingly well (no fade at all). They also look extremely cool through the wheels.

My guess is that now that I have them, I'll always stick with the Rotorpro drilled/slotted/plated rotors, just because everything else seems to pale in comparison.

 

[PeterMazda5]

Thanks, guys!

After a LOT of research, I ended up going with the Centric rotors (only High-Carbon Alloy, part #Part # 12545069, for front; Premium, part #12045065, for the rear -- no High-Carbon available for rear) and I went with and Akebono pads (ProACT Ultra Premium Ceramic Pad, part #ACT1044, for the front; Euro Ultra Premium Ceramic Pad, part #EUR1095, for the rear -- no Ultra Premium available from rear) from RockAuto.com. RockAuto's prices were consistently superior to any other sites I checked.

Other questions for all of you:
* What brake-bleeding tool do you folks like to use? I want to find one that allows me to set the pressure and then leave it so I can watch the fluid run at the given caliper
* What brake fluid do you folks prefer?
* Any tricks to compressing the caliper piston on the rears? I see that a c-clamp will not likely work
* How did all of you deal with the parking brake on the rear?

--P

 

[landru]

Look at my IMPORTANT message about REAR pads.

 

[PeterMazda5]

Look at my IMPORTANT message about REAR pads.

Thanks, Landru. RockAuto had the Akebono Euros noted as rear pads. They're different than the fronts, with built-in spring clips on one side. See the image here: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/euro-ultra-premium-ceramic-brake-shoes-rear-eur1095/14340355-P#

--P

 

[Silentnoise713]

Thanks, guys!

After a LOT of research, I ended up going with the Centric rotors (only High-Carbon Alloy, part #Part # 12545069, for front; Premium, part #12045065, for the rear -- no High-Carbon available for rear) and I went with and Akebono pads (ProACT Ultra Premium Ceramic Pad, part #ACT1044, for the front; Euro Ultra Premium Ceramic Pad, part #EUR1095, for the rear -- no Ultra Premium available from rear) from RockAuto.com. RockAuto's prices were consistently superior to any other sites I checked.

Other questions for all of you:
* What brake-bleeding tool do you folks like to use? I want to find one that allows me to set the pressure and then leave it so I can watch the fluid run at the given caliper
* What brake fluid do you folks prefer?
* Any tricks to compressing the caliper piston on the rears? I see that a c-clamp will not likely work
* How did all of you deal with the parking brake on the rear?

--P

It boils down to your need/use of your breaks but you have a nice parts list. I went with Hawk HPS 5.0 (successor to the HPS, less dusting) but haven't replaced it yet.


* If you are only bleeding, you don’t need any special tools. You can get speedbleeders for one person job or have a helper pump the brakes to pressure bleed. Considering you have 91K on an '08, it is time to flush it all out where a tool would be helpful. I just let it gravity drain and pressure bleed it at the end with a helping foot.
* I like Castrol LMA (Dot 3). The Dot 4 stuff has higher wet/dry boiling point but it is also more hygroscopic.
* Get the free loaner caliper retraction tools from autozone or parts store. Right tool for the job.
* Larger tounge and groove plier to help disconnect the cable.

 

[PeterMazda5]

Thanks, SilentNoise!

--Peter

It boils down to your need/use of your breaks but you have a nice parts list. I went with Hawk HPS 5.0 (successor to the HPS, less dusting) but haven't replaced it yet.


* If you are only bleeding, you don’t need any special tools. You can get speedbleeders for one person job or have a helper pump the brakes to pressure bleed. Considering you have 91K on an '08, it is time to flush it all out where a tool would be helpful. I just let it gravity drain and pressure bleed it at the end with a helping foot.
* I like Castrol LMA (Dot 3). The Dot 4 stuff has higher wet/dry boiling point but it is also more hygroscopic.
* Get the free loaner caliper retraction tools from autozone or parts store. Right tool for the job.
* Larger tounge and groove plier to help disconnect the cable.