Rear sway bar problem

[JasonBourne]

Hello, i have a strange problem with my rear sway bar, as you can see in the first pic. show the right side and can be seen that the end link it's near to the car, and in the second one show the left side and the end link it's far away from the car. The sway bar has moved to the right side i don't know why?? my bushing are new also the end links.





(bang)

 

[JoeManNorth]

seems that when they installed the new bushings they moved the bar a little.. look at the paint missing off the sway bar on the first pic (with the endlink closer to the car). Should be a simple fix really.. slack the bushings and move the bar back to it`s original location.

 

[JasonBourne]

when the bar was installed it's was in the original location, then with time and driving the car, the bar moves to the right side.
This is the second time that this happen.

 

[rustychops41]

The RB sway bar centering rings (they look like hose clamps) have a bad habit of creeping away from the horseshoe brackets. I fixed this with two 1/2" wide pieces of 1" heater hose and two HD 1-1/2" hose clamps. Center the swaybar, split the 1/2" wide heater-hose pieces horizontally so you can get them around the bar, and hoseclamp them on, right up snug against the OUTsides of the horseshoe ("D" bushing) brackets. Spank them down hard, but don't ruin the clamps. Then use a light hammer and a socket extension and "work" the OEM rings back outward so they snug up against the INsides of the brackets. This fix worked for well over 60K miles on my PR5 with the RB bar. I guess the OEMS can't take the stress, (and I doubt the heater-hose could either by themselves,) but together they seem to handle the sideloading issue

 

[JasonBourne]

great, can you put some pics???

 

[Wagonbacker9]

The RB sway bar centering rings (they look like hose clamps) have a bad habit of creeping away from the horseshoe brackets. I fixed this with two 1/2" wide pieces of 1" heater hose and two HD 1-1/2" hose clamps. Center the swaybar, split the 1/2" wide heater-hose pieces horizontally so you can get them around the bar, and hoseclamp them on, right up snug against the OUTsides of the horseshoe ("D" bushing) brackets. Spank them down hard, but don't ruin the clamps. Then use a light hammer and a socket extension and "work" the OEM rings back outward so they snug up against the INsides of the brackets. This fix worked for well over 60K miles on my PR5 with the RB bar. I guess the OEMS can't take the stress, (and I doubt the heater-hose could either by themselves,) but together they seem to handle the sideloading issue

great idea... another option would be to find a 2 part collar designed for this... (would have to find it in the correct diameter)... that SHOULD resolve the issue permanently as well.

 

[43975]

I was just going over the install instructions for the AXR Clynk fix and they also state in the instructions to do this hose clamp idea!!!

 

[StevoT]

I would suggest that the hose clamp idea be used as well. Included in the AXR Clunk Fix was 2 2-piece shaft collars. They worked great until they broke. I didn't use the hose clamp idea. Now I get to track down some new collars, which for a 20mm dia bar, can be a bit of a pain.