Not sure on that, think the front would work more...i did see a great video on the Mazda awd operation-maybe i can find again...i found the front dirty and rear clean on mine at around 27k.
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- Canada
Ouch, sorry to see that @Tland4. Been there, done that.. though in my case, there was plenty of fluid, but it was thick with grey and silver particles, and I had just as many metal chunks. Hope you can get this squared away without having to spend too much!
Also, if you've lost rear wheel engagement, be careful accelerating in wet/slippery conditions. The traction control might be too restrictive and force you to limp when you want the car to jump - especially scary when you try to accelerate to merge onto a busy roadway.
Also, if you've lost rear wheel engagement, be careful accelerating in wet/slippery conditions. The traction control might be too restrictive and force you to limp when you want the car to jump - especially scary when you try to accelerate to merge onto a busy roadway.
I'm sure the front works harder. I meant that the rear gets dirtier due to not being covered like the front diff is. So if it was leaking, it would've been hard to find.
There were never any signs while the car was parked in the garage.
Found a new rear diff on eBay from a reputable seller for about $1k. Not money I wanted to spend, but could be worse. The car is paid off, and otherwise runs flawlessly, so it's a no-brainer to fix it.
I'm just hoping the dealer will still program it since they're not doing the install.
wouldn't a local transmission shop handle that repair?
could be cheaper than dealer
could be cheaper than dealer
Probably, but I'm doing it myself. I may just have the dealer do the programming after the job is done.
Really not too terrible of a job. Took about 2 full hours. The worst part is the lack of clearance around the diffential; so I felt like I was turning a wrench for a full 10 minutes per mounting bolt. The plug above the differential and the two hose connections are also a PITA to get to, but it's definitely doable.
Thankful for a very detailed YouTube video. And thanks all who replied for your feedback.
I also called the dealer today, and the guy I talked to quoted me a full hour for them to program it. Which is fine since I'm saving a ton of money as it is by doing everything else myself.
Great question!Nice workand I appreciate your updates and photo of the saga.
Do you have a clicky for the YouTube video you watched that was helpful ?
Here's the link
Rear Differential Removal Video
He's able to remove each CV axle with the slide hammer. When I attempted the removal with the slide hammer, my CV axles extended through the knuckles without issue, but the diffential ends of the CV axles stayed attached to the diffential. Basically, I stretched the joint out (but did not separate them or, thankfully, tear any boots). So I used a pry bar for its angle, and then put a hammer on the pry bar to drive out the CV axles one at a time.
That was the only issue I had, which was easily resolved.
Dealer software for sure, some tools have the ability, one of our Autels has it for some of the models and one of our Bosch did. It will need to be done or you risk poor AWD control and at worst a burned up coupling.
I'm glad you posted this information. I'm about 6 miles from the dealership, and plan on driving straight there when I'm done.
I did have the thought of separating the current coupler and putting it on the new diff (which comes with a new coupler). But with the car being at 100k miles, I think it's wiser to replace the coupler as well.
