Rattling noise around strut

For the extra $10-$20 for rubber, you're better off just getting new quick struts for about $82 USD.
They include spring, strut, bumper, strut mount, everything.

You just remove your old strut and install the new one.
No disassembly, no spring compressor and no need to reuse rusty old crap.

 
"I dont think my car can salvage the rubber that connects the two pieces."

It doesn't really "connect" the two pieces.
It just cushions the top of the spring against the strut mount.

My rubber was good enough. I just reused them.
But only because I had to.






The quick strut comes with everything.
 
yeah I figured I should just get a new strut after I saw people explode spring compressors on youtube lol... btw youre the GOAT on this forum #KingOfTheProtege
 
"btw youre the GOAT on this forum #KingOfTheProtege"

I have no idea what that means. Lol

I'm too damn old. Lol
 
Oh. OK.
That's a good thing then.
I thought the yung buck was calling me an old goat.
Lol
 
nah, its a very good term. "Michael Jordan is the GOAT" or "Wayne Gretzky is the goat". it doesnt have to be in all caps also.

But Boomer is now a bad term.

"Back in my day we all knew how to drive manual cars"

"Ok boomer"

used to dismiss old people
 
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" yeah I figured I should just get a new strut after I saw people explode spring compressors on youtube lol..."

You should really replace both struts.
If you've only got one new strut, that side will probably ride a bit higher and will proper damping.
With one new strut and one old one, your car could easily become unstable especially at highway speed.

I rebuilt both my struts even though my car is only worth ~$300.
I would have bought quick struts but Rockauto only had one side available at the time.
Rebuilding them is a PITA and I had to reuse a bunch of old crappy parts.
 
so ive been trying to take the swaybar nut off that attaches to the strut and its impossible... ive now decided to just cut the nut off and try to save the swaybar threads as much as possible. does anyone know what kind of a nut that is so i can buy another one as I do not want to wait a week for a new sway bar
 
Those nuts are a PITA. Even if you get it moving, the whole stud can start to turn.

Mine had a hex in the end of the stud to hold the stud but I bent my Allen key into a pretzel.

Even if you get the nut off, you still have to install a new nut and the stud might want to spin.

I had to cut the entire control link off and replace it.





All I know about the nut is that it's probably metric unless it is an aftermarket replacement which may have SAE threads.


You could try putting some flame to the nut but if it gets too hot you could start to cook the plastic and grease in the ball of the stud.
 
yeah I got it to spin but I couldnt get the allen key to turn the other way. does it just spin because of the rust?
 
The other end of the stud is a metal ball so it can pivot when the strut moves up and down.

My replacement control links have flat spots on the stud for a wrench. That works a lot better.

You don't need to turn the Allen key. You only need to hold the stud from spinning.

Try putting a box end wrench on the Allen key for more torque, or a set of these sockets are awesome.


 
Are you just replacing the broken side with a quick strut or are you replacing just the strut mount?
 
"... does it just spin because of the rust? "

Sort of.
If you were removing a brand new sway bar link, the Allen key would work fine but the links seize up over time and even on a rust-free car you might have to cut them off.
 
im replacing the entire strut. i tried using the allen key but when I used the wrench I couldnt get the allen key to stay in one place and it spun with the wrench
 
I bent my Allen key then ended up breaking the end of the stud where the Allen key goes in.
I ended up breaking the ball out of the sway bar link and clamping a big ViseGrips to the ball to hold it and keep it from spinning.
I remember when it finally started to turn, it squealed so loud you could have heard it three blocks away.
I couldn't believe how tight that nut was.
I didn't think of using the grinder at the time.



You might be kinda screwed...
You may have to cut the link off and replace it.



If you do, a grinder with a cutoff wheel works best.
A Sawzall is hard to control and you don't want to cut into the sway bar.


You may be able to cut the nut off, maybe with a Dremel tool. It's a bit smaller than the grinder wheel but it might be hard to not cut into the stud or sway bar.
 
You should be okay with just one new strut.
Just be aware that the old side might ride lower and bounce more.

Just don't drive it like a race car and you should be fine.
 
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