Rampant MS3 problems?!?!

[Demi]

Okay i have been reading about the poor rear engine mount, no biggie i can get one for 80ish$, but now i am reading about these ECU problems that cause power flux and black soot out the tail. My car just got completed and had a vin issued like 2 weeks ago. Does this ECU problem affect me? Has Mazda taken steps to fix these problems?

 

[CTGrey02]

Ours are probably on the same boat then and should be fine. It was the earlier cars that had the older tune from what I've read.

 

[abun24]

The soot in the tailpipe is a function of the turboed DISI engine. It runs rich to keep the engine safe. Also, there is a software package for the ECU trouble.

 

[Betelgeuse]

So you've done all this reading and concluded there's an ECU problem? Maybe you need to read some more.

I'll give you a tip: Never take what one or two members post on a forum as gospel. Unfortunately and it's sad to say, quite a few of the owners have no f*cking idea what they're talking about. And then there are a few that really know their stuff. You have to visit several of the forums to really get a better idea of the issues. There a are only 2 main ones for now (IMO):

1. CELs (usually in colder weather)caused by a faulty purge valve. Drivability isn't usually affected.

2. Broken or loose TRANSMISSION mount bolt (on the driver's side). Not the rear mount. This is very serious and every owner should check theirs.


Most of the other issues you might read about are either driver ignorance (90%) and rare occurences that are to be expected with a first year model.

 

[Demi]

So you've done all this reading and concluded there's an ECU problem? Maybe you need to read some more.

Im always appreciative of advice thats offered to me, but damn dude a little latitude with someone new to the car and the scene would be equally appreciated.

 

[Betelgeuse]

Sorry if I came across like an ass but I'm not kidding, you do need to read a little more since your conclusions are far from accurate. There's no ECU problem, the soot is normal and rear engine mount isn't the problem, lol.

Now the car isn't perfect by any means but it's no way near as problematic as some might make it seem.

 

[Mocoso]

Keep in mind this is a forum and 99% of the people dont post on a daily basis: My car is wonderfull and has no problems... usually the threads get skewed to "@#$@# this and that broke" - its true of ANY forum (well at least the honest ones...)

Aside from the two issues already posted (for which on the second one I still dont have good statistics to know if its 1% or 10% of the cars that are having the problem) the car is fine

 

[Demi]

Cool deal.

 

[blue2turbo]

Cool deal.

one other issue that has been very common, not really a big problem, but something that needs attention is the suspension. Mainly in the rear where they stabilizer bar meets the suspension arm some people (myself included) have noticed the bolts are loose and can be taken off by hand. Some also experienced the same thing up front. Just check first thing and get them tightened and no problems from there.

 

[Demi]

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123670474
What about this sort of stuff? All good now?

 

[CTGrey02]

it *seems* to be only the earlier cars. I ordered a new one just incase

 

[Demi]

A new bolt? Where do you get that?

 

[CTGrey02]

No, a new car. I didn't want to chance an early build car that people were test driving. Made no sense if they weren't going to work with me on the price. Lettem sell to that to someone else.

 

[Betelgeuse]

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123670474
What about this sort of stuff? All good now?

All you really have to do is have the dealer (with you as a witness) take off the battery box and check the bolt (torquing it as necessary)to make sure it's to spec. You can also insist that they support the transmission while doing it so it takes some weight off the bolt while they're checking it. That way, the bolt wouldn't seem tighter than it actually was.

If the dealer refuses, then walk out and find another dealer that will. If that's not possible, as soon as you take delivery have a reputable shop or somebody you trust check it for you. Once that bolt is torqued like it should, it's very unlikely you'll have problems with it.

Many people who claimed to have checked it previously and it still broke, never really checked using a torque wrench. Some merely looked at it while others basically took a socket wrench and briefly checked it. Without a torque wrench the bolt will seem tight, when in actuality, it's no where near the spec it should be at.

 

[07speed3]

All you really have to do is have the dealer (with you as a witness) take off the battery box and check the bolt (torquing it as necessary)to make sure it's to spec. You can also insist that they support the transmission while doing it so it takes some weight off the bolt while they're checking it. That way, the bolt wouldn't seem tighter than it actually is.

If the dealer refuses, then walk out and find another dealer that will. If that's not possible, as soon as you take delivery have a reputable shop or somebody you trust check it for you. Once that bolt is torqued like it should, it's very unlikely you'll have problems with it.

Many people who claimed to have checked it previously and it still broke, never really checked using a torque wrench. Some merely looked at it while others basically took a socket wrench and briefly checked it. Without a torque wrench the bolt will seem tight, when in actuality, it's no where near the spec it should be at.

What are the torque specs on this bolt?

 

[Betelgeuse]

What are the torque specs on this bolt?

From what I've read, and based on what mine was at, it should be at around 75 ft/lbs.

 

[CaSHMeRe]

From what I've read, and based on what mine was at, it should be at around 75 ft/lbs.

+1 ... 75ft./lbs is correct

 

[07speed3]

From what I've read, and based on what mine was at, it should be at around 75 ft/lbs.

cool thanks ima go check that after dinner lol

 

[trpleee]

Agreed, my car has been running great, no issues. Lots of people only post problems, not lack of problems.

 

[justa4banger]

Betelgeuse
I love your posts......... Damn i couldn't have said it better myself lol

Also according to the techs i talked to about the Motor mount, at 75 lbs or trq the bolt can still sheer. I know i checked mine and it still broke.......... Then again i'm not sweating it, dealer had the car back to me in a timely manner.

Oh Proper way to check would be to support engine and verify with a trq wrench if its got atleats 75Lbs on it. If it moves at all you need to remove the bolt and add locktite(red) and retrq bolt, Other wise the previous threadlock will do nothing to keep the bolt from backing out.

i wish i had some pics of my bolt, but there was clear evidence that my Bolt didn't back out first, it just looked like a pair of bolt cutters got after it.