Do you recall how many clips are on the grill and if there's any recommended spots where I should start prying? Something is loose under the grill and I'm trying to access it without breaking anything
Radio / Speakers on CX-5 SPORT model
- Thread starter hollis
- Start date
Do you recall how many clips are on the grill and if there's any recommended spots where I should start prying? Something is loose under the grill and I'm trying to access it without breaking anything
4 no more than 6 snap anchors. I used a wide thin tipped screwdriver and gently pushed the soft dash down with my fingers next to the grill and then put the screwdriver under the grill. I then pulled up on the screw driver without prying on the soft dash. Once I got the front of the grill up I was careful not to bend the grill and used the same technique for the rest of it.
Thanks for the reply. After much thought I decided to go the route of components front and back. I'm having MB Quarts installed in the front this week without an amplifier just to ease the financial pain until I can afford the amp. I've decided to switch out the location of the Kicker Hideaway from under the passenger seat to sitting flat in the cargo area. The reason is that the bass is too intense under the seat, it vibrates the seat for the passenger and blocks the vent there. I plan on installing the amp in that spot, one with a small footprint so it won't block the vent (Pioneer GM-D9500F, class D amp runs cooler). I am fairly certain this is the location of the amp for the Bose factory system. This allows me access to the amp for fine tuning the sound, and I plan on having the Kicker sub in a cloth bag to deter theft. It also unplugs very easily for removal in case I get worried. Still working on exceeding the Bose system for the Sport model.
jdmstickerboy
Member
- :
- CX-5
I also changed my system and installed a JBL GTO 5355 amp with 2x JBL MS62C + 2x JBL rear, Stinger LOC and proper grounds for the amp, and LOC but I keep hearing a small pop/click noise when I change songs, or when i turn the volume level on the stock head unit from 1 to zero or from zero to 1. I believe the gains were set correctly, any ideas? Is everyone elses install perfect?
hmm, try rechecking that you have a good ground and that all connections are in properly.
also, did you run the rcas and the power line down the same path? I know a lot of people say that it doesn't matter, but you never know.
Will a pair of Focal 165kr fit in the front?
Hi everyone,
I'm thinking on installing a pair of Focal 165KR that I can get for a fair price, but since the woofers are a bit deeper than other speakers most of you are using, I was wondering if anyone knows if the depth (71 mm - 2.79528 inches) will be too much and require some modification in the door panel. Does anyone have any idea?
I'm also planning on getting a Focal amp - FPP4100. Does anyone have experience with this amp?
Thanks to everyone who is contributing to the forum!
Jajur
Hi everyone,
I'm thinking on installing a pair of Focal 165KR that I can get for a fair price, but since the woofers are a bit deeper than other speakers most of you are using, I was wondering if anyone knows if the depth (71 mm - 2.79528 inches) will be too much and require some modification in the door panel. Does anyone have any idea?
I'm also planning on getting a Focal amp - FPP4100. Does anyone have experience with this amp?
Thanks to everyone who is contributing to the forum!
Jajur
How are the IS200s running? Are you using an amp to power them? Do they sound much better than the stock speakers (I'm guessing yes!)?
Thanks
Ok so I'm all done. I spliced the wires, used a butt connector and installed the speakers. The passenger side was the side I test fit the speakers on last week and that one went in fine. However when I did the driver side I noticed much more plastic underneath the space where the speaker magnet sits. With much force i was able to get the speaker screwed down.
The sound improvement is night and day. So much louder and i can actually hear the music when driving with the windows down at 45 mph.
Just finished mine. Passenger side mount was easy. Driver side needed some love but it was not bad at all. I could not believe the difference it made.
FYI, for the 'angled' screwdriver I used small ratchet with 6.5mm socket + regular phillips tip that fits into the socket.
thanks for this post!
I've just installed PA set also, much clearer, less of that droning base. man the stock speakers are super light, very small magnet on that, super cheap. I've just cut off the connector to factory speaker and solder speaker wires to it, so it just clips right in.
I've just installed PA set also, much clearer, less of that droning base. man the stock speakers are super light, very small magnet on that, super cheap. I've just cut off the connector to factory speaker and solder speaker wires to it, so it just clips right in.
word of caution.
(1)during cold mornings my front left speaker would initially not turn on at low volume. But when I increased the volume a bit, it would kick in and work fine for the rest of the day.
(2)There was also a slight buzz sound at certain frequency and volume coming from the same front left speaker throughout the day.
(3)Lastly, the same speaker would cut out when I went over certain high volume (45-50 volume point) and no sound came from it until I lowered the radio volume below 40.
so are these are related or separate issues?
these are the steps I took to diagnose the problem
1. Switched the Hi-Low converter RCA outputs (Right >< Left) in the front speakers going to the Amp, resulting in the (2) and (3) following the switch making the front right speaker now the issue. so it was not a blown speaker.
2. Just in case, switched the amp output from Left to Right side in the front. The issues followed to the right side, so something before the speakers/crossover to the front was the root cause. Hi-Low converter, Amp, or the radio.
3. Bypassed my Hi-Low converter, amp. just went from Radio to front speakers/crossovers. none of the issues showed up. So its not the radio nor the crossovers or front speakers.
4. Only thing left was the Hi-Low converter in the front. Called up PAC tech support and they agreed it must be defective and to replace it.
5. Just for the heck of it, I took the rear Hi-low converter, which wasnt having any issues and replaced the front Hi-low converter since it appeared to be defective anyways. Guess what, same issues were showing up. Okay... I am out of ideas.
Front Speakers - must be fine
front crossover - must be fine
amp - must be fine
hi-low converter - must be fine
radio - must be fine
Took a step back and thought about it, looked at my setup and only one component was not tested but really shouldnt be affecting anything.
The PAC TR-4 remote amp turn on module was hooked up to the front left speaker (+) lead. Could this be the culprit? I removed the wire connecting to the (+) speaker lead and connected it to a constant 12V source.
The issue went away. switched the rca outputs on the front hi-low converter and no issues . Try to verify, reconnected the TR-4 back to front left (+) speaker lead and the problem came back. So its not suppose to work this way, but its somehow conflicting with the amp/crossover/speaker.
In the end, I just hooked up a remote wire to the inside fuse box to Front 12V 15A outlet as it turns on during Acc and Running then turns off went vehicle is turned off.
Problem solved.
Just took 2 days and about 4 hours of actual work on the car.
Hope this helps if anyone experiences the same issue.
(1)during cold mornings my front left speaker would initially not turn on at low volume. But when I increased the volume a bit, it would kick in and work fine for the rest of the day.
(2)There was also a slight buzz sound at certain frequency and volume coming from the same front left speaker throughout the day.
(3)Lastly, the same speaker would cut out when I went over certain high volume (45-50 volume point) and no sound came from it until I lowered the radio volume below 40.
so are these are related or separate issues?
these are the steps I took to diagnose the problem
1. Switched the Hi-Low converter RCA outputs (Right >< Left) in the front speakers going to the Amp, resulting in the (2) and (3) following the switch making the front right speaker now the issue. so it was not a blown speaker.
2. Just in case, switched the amp output from Left to Right side in the front. The issues followed to the right side, so something before the speakers/crossover to the front was the root cause. Hi-Low converter, Amp, or the radio.
3. Bypassed my Hi-Low converter, amp. just went from Radio to front speakers/crossovers. none of the issues showed up. So its not the radio nor the crossovers or front speakers.
4. Only thing left was the Hi-Low converter in the front. Called up PAC tech support and they agreed it must be defective and to replace it.
5. Just for the heck of it, I took the rear Hi-low converter, which wasnt having any issues and replaced the front Hi-low converter since it appeared to be defective anyways. Guess what, same issues were showing up. Okay... I am out of ideas.
Front Speakers - must be fine
front crossover - must be fine
amp - must be fine
hi-low converter - must be fine
radio - must be fine
Took a step back and thought about it, looked at my setup and only one component was not tested but really shouldnt be affecting anything.
The PAC TR-4 remote amp turn on module was hooked up to the front left speaker (+) lead. Could this be the culprit? I removed the wire connecting to the (+) speaker lead and connected it to a constant 12V source.
The issue went away. switched the rca outputs on the front hi-low converter and no issues . Try to verify, reconnected the TR-4 back to front left (+) speaker lead and the problem came back. So its not suppose to work this way, but its somehow conflicting with the amp/crossover/speaker.
In the end, I just hooked up a remote wire to the inside fuse box to Front 12V 15A outlet as it turns on during Acc and Running then turns off went vehicle is turned off.
Problem solved.
Just took 2 days and about 4 hours of actual work on the car.
Hope this helps if anyone experiences the same issue.
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/METRA-72-7901-MAZDA-1990-2002-SPEAKER-CONNECTOR-HARNESS-PAIR-/150910473403?pt=US_Wire_Harnesses&hash=item2322f714bb
Ok how about these speaker connectors for the dash?
Ok how about these speaker connectors for the dash?
densitywave
Member
- :
- 2013 CX-5 Sport FWD 6MT
Component System vs Independent Woofers/Two-Way Speakers
I'm considering starting to mirror the Bose system by installing woofers in the front doors and 2-way speakers in the dash. Anyone have any thoughts on doing this instead of installing a component system with tweeters/crossovers?
I'm considering starting to mirror the Bose system by installing woofers in the front doors and 2-way speakers in the dash. Anyone have any thoughts on doing this instead of installing a component system with tweeters/crossovers?
densitywave,
2 way components are a major improvement over coaxil speakers. the imaging, staging, clarity, you name it its just better with 2 ways. Put the Woofers/Subwoofers in the rear as their omni-directional (doesnt matter as much where in the car they sit)
just go to a car audio shop and hear the difference.
2 way components are a major improvement over coaxil speakers. the imaging, staging, clarity, you name it its just better with 2 ways. Put the Woofers/Subwoofers in the rear as their omni-directional (doesnt matter as much where in the car they sit)
just go to a car audio shop and hear the difference.
popeyecahn
Member
- :
- Ex CX5 Owner
- :
- '23 3 PRM HB MT
Did anyone ever figure out the proper connector for the dash speakers?
I've read through this thread two or three times and understand what others have done, but after 30 years making cables, fixing tape machines, consoles and outboard gear I'm just not interested, nor can I see well enough to splice, solder or otherwise jerry-rig a connection in that small of a space lol
I'm leaning toward the Infinity 6030cs since they are a 2 way component and have a decent sensitivity spec. I like the idea of using the OEM speaker basket as a mounting frame. Also thinking of some lesser Infinity 6.5's for the rear.
I've read through this thread two or three times and understand what others have done, but after 30 years making cables, fixing tape machines, consoles and outboard gear I'm just not interested, nor can I see well enough to splice, solder or otherwise jerry-rig a connection in that small of a space lol
I'm leaning toward the Infinity 6030cs since they are a 2 way component and have a decent sensitivity spec. I like the idea of using the OEM speaker basket as a mounting frame. Also thinking of some lesser Infinity 6.5's for the rear.
I ordered some connectors http://www.ebay.com/itm/METRA-72-790...item2322f714bb
I'll let you know if they fit when they come - only 6 bucks shipped
Update: They don't fit.
I'll let you know if they fit when they come - only 6 bucks shipped
Update: They don't fit.
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popeyecahn
Member
- :
- Ex CX5 Owner
- :
- '23 3 PRM HB MT
The link isn't working, are those 72-7901? If so they won't work, the Metra connector is rectangular and had spade type lugs. The one in the car is squarish and would accept round or square pins only. Let me know if I'm wrong on the Metra number.
popeyecahn
Member
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- Ex CX5 Owner
- :
- '23 3 PRM HB MT
After some responses from both Metra and Crutchfield that basically said we don't have a clue and haven't anything in the pipeline, I went ahead and bought some Infinity REF-6502ix and will drop them in the OEM speaker basket and call it a day. They had sounded better than the Polk Audio Best Buy had on hand.
wrenchesoffire
Member
- :
- 2013 Mazda CX-5 Sport
Has anyone found where the tweeter wires are joined into the harness? I want to cut it there and put in my crossovers instead of running new wires. Already installed the pioneer a-series component tweeters in the factory spot, just used my own connectors and a 1 5/8 hole saw in the block off plate, But having no crossover becomes apparent with the pops above 36 on the knob 
So i definately want to get the woofers and crossovers in there pronto before something lets the magic smoke out.
So i definately want to get the woofers and crossovers in there pronto before something lets the magic smoke out.popeyecahn
Member
- :
- Ex CX5 Owner
- :
- '23 3 PRM HB MT
Have you looked at the HU connector? Go to the first post, member Hollis has posted wiring schemos that included cable layout diagrams. The other option being running new wires, since you probably won't find the correct connector for the OEM tweeter assembly.
