Questions about installing boost gauge

Lee456

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Red 2008 Mazdaspeed 3
Ive got a Defi Red Racer boost gauge sitting here and a Mearcat pod on the way. Ive looked at all the pictures and read all the stuff I can find about installing it but am still not sure what would be the best way to run the wires. In an effort to avoid tearing my two month old car apart any more than I have to, Ive got a couple questions for people who have already done this.

What is the best way to hook up the power and illumination wires? Im leaning toward running the wires clear over to the fuse box under the glove box and using the add a circuit fuse plugs, but it looks tough to get the wires over there. Is it possible without tearing a bunch of panels off? This car seems to be more full of parts both behind the dash and in the engine compartment than any Ive ever owned. Several attempts at sticking a wire through from one side to the other behind the radio controls have all failed. Ive seen the pictures where the guy was having his gauge put in at a shop and it looks like every panel including the instrument section was off or at least loose. Is there an easier way to do it? Im not opposed to just tapping into wires behind the panel by the steering column and have done a lot of that stuff with other cars, but I dont want to go into the dealer with a problem with the air conditioner six months from now and have them say its because I soldered into the wire at the light dimmer.

Now for the bigger question. What is the best and least destructive way to get the wires from the sender through the firewall? I see that the guy who ran his through where the hood release cable goes later said he should have run it out behind the glove box. Then it would have to come all the way back across the car on the inside, though.

Thanks for your time and Id appreciate any advice that would result and an easier and better installation.
 
I just installed my defi red racer boost gauge yesterday and I ran the wire through the hood release cable as well. I used everything in the how to section and it didn't take me that long for the install. I took my time as well. It wasn't hard at all to install it. You are right about the wires being short of the fuse box. You will most likely have to add wire to the wires to reach over there. I installed my gauge infront of the rpm gauge and the wires barely reached the fuse box. Fuse taps are the greatest thing, so glad I did it that way instead of sodering. I sodered my turbo timer and that was a pita
 
I have an a-pillar mounted mechanical BG and I ran my vacuum line down the pillar to the left kick panel and thru the hood release cable hole. For power I tapped into the wires in the left kick panel.
Good luck with the install.
 
Thanks for the replies. Looks like I'll be running the sender wire through with the hood release and I'll decide whether to hook it up to the wires on that side or run it over to the fuse box when start taking panels off.
 
To run wires to the fuse box under the glove box, only requires you to remove two panels with one push pin in each. Its the easiest thing ever.

Just remove the right side panel on the driver side footwell by the pedals and the left panel on the passenger side footwell; run your wires underneath the radio-a/c center console. Can't get any easier!!!

Run the wires, under the dash, through the center console (A/C-radio), under the carpet, and back up behind the glove box.

There are 3 fuses you will need to tap into...oh wait, you have a mechanical gauge right, not an electronic one? If its mechanical, then just one...there is a sunroof fuse thats ACC. If you have an electronic, then you'll need to use the OBD-constant, Lights-lumination, and Sunroof-acc.
 
Just finished my defi red racer boost too. I need to try the sunroof fuse, cause I am somewhere else right now (can't remember) and if my headlights are off I don't get a closing sequence, the gauge just shuts off and the needle stops where it is.
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Hardest part of the install was sending the wires through the firewall. Then just ground the ground, extend the other wires and use add-a-fuses to put them into the fuse box under the glove box.
0925082100.jpg

This is what my fuse box looks like. One is from radar detector
 
Thanks for the suggestion about pulling he panels in the foot wells. I'd tried to fish a wire through the open space above those panels with no luck, so I thought I'd have to run it up above the radio and take stuff apart up there. This will be much easier.

And thanks for the pictures. I have never used the add a fuse things so it's good to see what it will look like when done. Always just soldered to existing wires before but I hate to start doing that on a two month old car. The gauge looks good on the pilar. I had one there on my Mustang, but was a bit worried about putting it there on this car because of the air bag in the pilar. I've never had one go off and I'm not sure what direction or how far stuff would fly. Hopefully it would just drop.
 
After a few days everything is working well and holding just fine except one little piece of double-side tape on one of the top corners of the gauge is starting to give just a bit. I think I may just put 4 small black screws through it to help hold it in place, but I don't wanna leave drill marks in the pillar for when I eventually sell the car (probably not until 100-120 thousand miles, don't worry guys, not leaving that soon, I'm at 10k right now ;))

I had no problem sending the wire behind the radio, easiest part of the install. I just took one of my handy dandy wire hangers that was relatively straight, and just went straight through. I didn't go "behind the radio" though. I actually took off the plastic side pannels that meet the carpet, each one has one clip holding it on. Tah-dah. You might be having trouble if you are actually trying to send it though up at the radio level.

Also with the airbags, I have heard from lots of people (as I have had this question for quite some time) that the airbag is either in the ceiling, or so close to the top of the pillar that a gauge this low is not going to rip off and hit you in the face.The pillar *should* collapse downward like a tree falling.... or so I've heard
 
Did you figure out your closing sequence? mine flashes up then goes to .5 and shuts off. Doesn't go to zero with the acc on just .5
 
I get the closing sequence if my headlights are on. Haven't had time to mess with it yet to see which fuse works. I'm pretty much not gonna have almost any free time through to next week......

Someone said something about a sunroof fuse... that is gonna be my first try
 
OBD-constant --F47 fuse??10A??
Lights-lumination (turns on with parking and/or headlights)--F82 fuse??7.5A??

*Sunroof-acc.--F52 fuse??20A??
is that correct??
 
I used DOORLOCK (37 15A), IGSIG (70 - 10A), and TAIL L (81 - 7.5A) so that it comes on with acc. Works like a charm.
 
*** PLEASE IGNORE, I GOT IT The whole OBDII plug pops right out of the panel. ***

OK. Now for the really stupid question. We finally got a day when it's under 100 in my garage and I'm putting the boost gauge in. I've got all the panels off but I can't get the connector off the back of the OBDII plug so I can move that panel aside. I've got the three switches unhooked and have spent the last 20 minutes pulling and prying on that last connector. Mine is black with a white edge around it. How do you get that sucker unplugged?
 
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I fuse tapped into the same as the how to section for the vent pod boost gauge location. The only thing I didn't do is extend the wires because I installed it in the infront middle of the rpm and speed gauge. I had it pused down and made it fit nice down on the very back of the steering column. Perfect spot. I still don't have the closing sequence though
 
mine is with peak mode and i ahve to set it again everytime I turn on the car...i used cigar fuse for my (+) cable any ideas which one shoul i use instead so i dont have set peak eveytime?? doesnt matter i used horn and rake lights fuse its ok now how eve i cant mute that electric prosport gauge....
 
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To run wires to the fuse box under the glove box, only requires you to remove two panels with one push pin in each. Its the easiest thing ever.

Just remove the right side panel on the driver side footwell by the pedals and the left panel on the passenger side footwell; run your wires underneath the radio-a/c center console. Can't get any easier!!!

Run the wires, under the dash, through the center console (A/C-radio), under the carpet, and back up behind the glove box.

There are 3 fuses you will need to tap into...oh wait, you have a mechanical gauge right, not an electronic one? If its mechanical, then just one...there is a sunroof fuse thats ACC. If you have an electronic, then you'll need to use the OBD-constant, Lights-lumination, and Sunroof-acc.

Follow these directions!!
 

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