Question on Amp-sub combo

[Psycho_Maz]

I have a MS3 GT with bose. I am just looking to add some good clean bass for rock and some rap. I have the factory bose HU, Infinity reference 6x8 in the front which brightens the system up a bit, and stock bose in the rear. I want to keep it as stock as possible, i.e. I am not looking to replace the factory amp or tear out factory subwoofer. I don't plan on switching out the rear speakers at all. I plan on doing the "standard" subwoofer/amp installation from previous "how to" posts. (I plan on tapping into the pre-amp bose signal and running the speaker line to the hatch for installing the sub box and amp.)

I found a 10" JL Powerwedge, Sealed (CS110RG-W1V2), 4ohm, 50-300rms, 600watt max... for 149.00 shipped from sonicelectronix
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7416_JL+Audio+CS110RG-W1v2.html
-the 12" is 40.00 more at 189.00

I was thinking of one of the following amps to push the powerwedge...
1) Alpine MRP-M500 RMS 300x1 @ 4 ohms - 149.00 @ dealercostcaraudio.com
http://www.dealercostcaraudio.com/MRP-M500.aspx
or
2)Kicker ZX300.1 150RMSx1 @ 4 ohms - 119.00 @dealercostcaraudio.com
http://www.dealercostcaraudio.com/08ZX300.1.aspx


Alpine is supposed to be the better amp, but is the Alpine too much power (RMS) for this speaker? The only thing I like about the kicker is it has a remote I can run up to the driver seat and is a tad cheaper, but lower power. Both have speaker level inputs which is nice for the install. The Alpine has more flexibility as far as low pass crossover and other features.

So my question is:
1) which amp to push the 10" JL powerwedge? Is the Alpine too much power?
2) Would you suggest I include a ground loop isolator when I install this?

thanks for the inputs in advance

 

[the intimidator]

if your looking for sound
go with a 12 and the alpine or 2 10s

i got a Bassworx 10" Car Subwoofer (GPH10BK)
Clarion Pro Audio Amp APX640.4
Infinity KAPPA PERFECT10VQ

 

[TheRealDefman]

1) which amp to push the 10" JL powerwedge? Is the Alpine too much power?

Not at all, the Alpine would be a great choice.

2) Would you suggest I include a ground loop isolator when I install this?

Probably not. Use good cable directly to the battery and good quality patch/RCA cables. I hear there are some really good amp install kits out there with all of the basic parts you need, but I've never used one.

 

[que]

I agree with above poster. The Apline would be a better choice. I think the Rockfords RMS is not gonna push the sub to it's potential. Adjust gains accordingly & you'll be happy with the Alpine. Oppose to the Rockford, which there is no more overhead, so if you want a little more, there is none.

I'm not using a GLI either. Do your wiring correctly, you won't need it.

 

[Psycho_Maz]

thanks for the inputs.

I pulled the trigger on the Alpine amp and the 12" JL Audio Powerwedge. I picked up an 8 gauge amp install kit and some Infinity tweeters too.(https://www.crutchfield.com/p_1081011T/Infinity-Reference-1011t.html?tp=107&tab=features_and_specs)
The tweeters put me over the 200 dollar mark so I got 15 bucks off...so the tweeters essentially cost me $30 bucks. I am hoping they silk tweeters sound better than the plastic stock bose tweeters, even if the are driven by the factory amp. Total cost was 416 with S&H, about 390 without. Overall, I think I got a good deal for Alpine and JL equipment. I will install next week sometime and post up some picts, let you know how it sounds.

cheers

 

[que]

Good choice. Especially now that your going with the single 12" instead of the 10". The 12" I believe will need at least 250W RMS. You would have been barely making it w/ that Rockford. I'm running a JL 12W3 myself w/ an Eclipse XA1000. It's an 4ohm DVC sub, so I have it wired down to 2ohms. With the wedge that you ordered, I'm not sure which sub they load it with, but that should be something to find out so you have a better idea about how much power you would be needing or pushing.

 

[Psycho_Maz]

QUE, it is the JL Audio 12W1 sub that runs at 4ohms. The Alpine amp should be a good match since it puts out 300RMSx1 at 4ohms, which is right where the 12W1 sub wants to be (5-300RMS, 600watt max).

 

[Abilor]

I have that model of Alpine. It's fanfuckingtastic. Plenty of input options, very clean output, very stable. Bangs hard in all the right ways, none of the wrong. Stays cool. Highly recommend it with a quality 12" or 2 10"s. Or just go easy with a single 10" - it's so adjustable, you can run any application with it.

 

[que]

QUE, it is the JL Audio 12W1 sub that runs at 4ohms. The Alpine amp should be a good match since it puts out 300RMSx1 at 4ohms, which is right where the 12W1 sub wants to be (5-300RMS, 600watt max).

In that case, (thumb) good job.

 

[Design]

I will add that you want to be careful running aftermarket speakers on the Bose amp, unless your infinity speakers are rated for 2 ohms. The factory amp runs at 2 - 2.2 ohms and may blow your aftermarket speakers at higher volume.

 

[Psycho_Maz]

I will add that you want to be careful running aftermarket speakers on the Bose amp, unless your infinity speakers are rated for 2 ohms. The factory amp runs at 2 - 2.2 ohms and may blow your aftermarket speakers at higher volume.

My Infinity's run at about 2 ohms so I am good there, but should I get bass blockers?

I heard they may help the speaker not distort and save them from getting blown out. My Infinitys run as low at 49hz, so they are trying to push that low range, but poorly. According to the "Blose improvements for Cheap" post, the Bose system tries to push the full range of sound to the poor front speakers. With the sub in the back I don't need the 6x8s trying to make crappy base.
20-200hz

My JL Audio 12" has a range of 20-200hz response so I was going to get either the either the 150hz or 300hz blockers. I am sure I must be running less than 50watts RMS from weak stock amp to them, so these from crutchfield should not melt
http://www.crutchfield.com/g_761/Bass-Blockers.html?search=bass+blockers&skipvs=T