Question about engine replacement

E

erikmanx

mazdaism
Contributor
:
2017 CX-5 AWD T
I have a 2001 MP3 and I think I have developed rod knock. I want to get it before it blows a hole in the side of my engine, so Im online looking for engine blocks (thats really all I need, I can have my head machined and reconditioned if needed and swap everything else over).

The question I have is, looking at car-parts.com Im given the option for upper and lower engine blocks. I need to know what from that site I should be looking for. Unless anyone on here knows a better place to obtain block with a good bottom end in it for relatively cheap.

Im wondering if upper vs lower is like the same thing as longblock vs shortblock. If so I can figure THAT out, but Im just not sure.

Im also wondering if my engine block would be the same one found in just a standard 2.0 protege non MP3, or even a 626 2.0 as well.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
just 2 places..or why not just get a rebuild kit from protegegarage and slap it in the block you have now..ofcourse you'll have to get it machined but it might be cheaper doing it that way.

hope that helps

Jeremy
 
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Im really looking for a swap type deal so I can if I want to later build the block I have for a turbo setup. I cant afford to be down for a long time. I have friends who know how to rebuild, swap, etc, who can help me with it. Im not worried too much about the actual work of swapping the top end over. I can have the head disassembled, hottanked and reassembled with new valve seals etc for relatively cheap, I can slap my head onto the new block, swap out any sensors etc I need, new head gasket, (my water pump only has about 20k on it so I could just reuse it), new timing belt, etc.

So yeah, in general I just want something I can swap over, maybe in a weekend assuming I have all the stuff and Im ready to go. Then I can piece by piece get a nice bottom end and internals, and have the block in there done nicely to support a good turbo setup.

Thanks for the links to try. Ill check those out.
 
when my motor went out i bought mine from protegegarage with under 30k miles cheep and the bad boy fired right up very happy with the motor they sold me :)
 
How many miles did you have on yours when it went ForBidden?

What was the cause of failure?

I have 120k miles and I am developing rod knock.. it isnt BAD yet, but I know it will just get worse.
 
Our engins dont have rods. You might have a bad valve? Eeather way, over head cams triger the valves directly. You'd probably be fine with a new head if you really think you messed up something bad.
 
JoeManNorth said:
Our engins dont have rods. You might have a bad valve? Eeather way, over head cams triger the valves directly. You'd probably be fine with a new head if you really think you messed up something bad.
Click to expand...


WHAT ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT? These engines most definitely have rods (hand)
 
If you would of fully read my post you would of understood what I was talking about as it's a common knock in older engines.
 
JoeManNorth said:
If you would of fully read my post you would of understood what I was talking about as it's a common knock in older engines.
Click to expand...

What he is trying to say is it cant be Rod knock cause you cant have rod knock in a OHC car. There is no push rods. And if something happened to the connecting rods then you would have bigger problems then just a knock. It is probably something in the valve train that is causing the noise. But dont think just replacing the head will do the trick. If a valve is bent the it could very well have done some major damage to its local piston. it would be best to figure out what is really wrong before buying parts and jumping the gun. It could very well be a spun bearing too. They will sometimes make a knocking sound when they go.
 
Blackrose said:
What he is trying to say is it cant be Rod knock cause you cant have rod knock in a OHC car. There is no push rods. And if something happened to the connecting rods then you would have bigger problems then just a knock. It is probably something in the valve train that is causing the noise. But dont think just replacing the head will do the trick. If a valve is bent the it could very well have done some major damage to its local piston. it would be best to figure out what is really wrong before buying parts and jumping the gun. It could very well be a spun bearing too. They will sometimes make a knocking sound when they go.
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Thanks for clarifying my french.

That is also true, most of the time when you damage a valve it's because you drove the piston into it. I should of had mentioned that. (braindead
 
Connecting rod knock, piston pin noises, things like that.

Im not talking about pushrods.
 
erikmanx said:
Connecting rod knock, piston pin noises, things like that.

Im not talking about pushrods.
Click to expand...

I understand that you are not talking about push rods. But connecting Rods dont knock. The point is if you are hearing a knock it is not the connecting rods. And that you should get it diagnossed before you think about buying anything.
 
Tell me where you think you are getting this information from please.

Connecting rods can too knock.

Our engines can experience rod knock. I am not understanding where you guys think that they cant have what is commonly known as rod knock. Any engine can get rod knock.
 
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erikmanx said:
Tell me where you think you are getting this information from please.

Connecting rods can too knock.

Our engines can experience rod knock. I am not understanding where you guys think that they cant have what is commonly known as rod knock. Any engine can get rod knock.
Click to expand...


Ok then.... why dont you explain to me how a connecting rod will knock??? Unless you manage to like bend it just right so it hits the cylinder wall or something as unlikely as that it is not going to make a noise. If there is something wrong with a wrist pin then it is not going to be rod knock it is going to be a problem with the wrist pin. Even if its a bad rod bearing then it is not rod knock it is a Spun bearing........ Rod knock is a generic term people use to describe a problem with a motor that is producing a bad sound. Connecting Rods do not knock.. They crack or bend and when they do it is catasrophic. If there was a problem with your connecting rod there would be no question that is what it is.
 
Rod knock as Im talking about occurs when the CONNECTING ROD (which I assure you we have and is the same as any other engine) hits the crankshaft journal (which I assure you we have).

Rod knock will often lead to spinning a bearing and or throwing a rod, resulting in a shattered piston or throwing a hole in the side of the block.

This happens to cars of every make, model, and engine size, even today. How could you think we are exempt from it?
 
erikmanx said:
Tell me where you think you are getting this information from please.

Connecting rods can too knock.

Our engines can experience rod knock. I am not understanding where you guys think that they cant have what is commonly known as rod knock. Any engine can get rod knock.
Click to expand...

Anyone who has been arround engines knows this. A connecting rod could "knock" though blackrose. It would be one knock though then more of a bang, and a few clunks and a chuck fallowed by complete silence.
 
Rod bolts can stretch and allow play. Get enough play and you have a connecting rod hitting something.

Bearing journals can go out of round over time and make the rod move a different pattern and it can knock against something there too.
 
erikmanx said:
Rod knock as Im talking about occurs when the CONNECTING ROD (which I assure you we have and is the same as any other engine) hits the crankshaft journal (which I assure you we have).

Rod knock will often lead to spinning a bearing and or throwing a rod, resulting in a shattered piston or throwing a hole in the side of the block.

This happens to cars of every make, model, and engine size, even today. How could you think we are exempt from it?
Click to expand...


I can see talking to you will get us no were but ill try one more time.

We are mearly debating terminoligy.

Rod knock is a buzz term to describe something very bad happening to any motor that produces a sound but it is a technical term for a malfuncioning in a push rod.

The first thing your described is a type of crank walk

Crank walk can lead to spun bearings and broken crank angle sensors and destroyed thrust bearings.

A thrown rod is when you litterally throw a push rod up againt the ceiling of the head or through it. You cant through a rod in a protege because we dont have push rods. this is yet another "buzz" term.

If you did somehow walk the crank then you are the first protege owner I have even heard of to manage this and there are several high HP protege that have never done thins. Even if you think the rod meerly bent and struck the crank then you are insane.

You do not have Rod knock. If thats what you want to call it fine.... But like I said before when I was just trying to help you. Dont buy something without a diagnosis first. What you think might be Rod Knock could simply be a bent vavle.
 
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Ditto to that... I think I have that issue. To top it off, if the noise is comming out the top of the engine it's most definatly is a valve. And yes you can tell if it's a noise from the top or bottom or mid if you listen long enough.

Eather way, Blackrose is right. Make sure you know what it is before you go buying what you think you need.
 
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