Quaife LSD - help?
- Thread starter Kooldino
- Start date
- :
- MP5T / 944
What a pain in the BOX!
Kooldino said:
The one for the layshaft and the one for the mains shaft.. the ones that you put on to seal the 5th gear parts onto the end of the shafts... the two big silver 1-1/4" (34 mm I believe) nuts that you have to dent in to get to hold... that make sense? You have to remove them every time you take the tranny apart.
Ok, the locknuts should be here today. They're something absurd like $20 each.
Anyway, here's a continuation of the procedure. I keep getting too busy @ home to take pics, but I'll do it soon.
A buddy of mine removed the lower part of the bearing that was stuck on after we ruined said bearing. He probably used a puller tool to pull this off. What I'm referring to is the race that's under the bearing (although it's part of the bearing before you destroy it). Anyway, once you get this off, save it.
Next, you'll want to install the ring gear onto your new diff. Set it up on a press, with the ring gear side up. Make sure the holes are lined up. Press the diff down and it will eventually pop into the ring gear. Make sure to rotate the whole assembly a few times and press that too, just to make sure it's even all around.
Now you'll need to install the ARP hardware. These bolts have round flat heads, and the shafts are splined at the top, which indicates that they need to be pressed on. Set the diff up on the press ring gear up. Place one of the bolt so that the head is sticking out of the top of the ring gear. Make sure the gear is secured while you are pressing the bolt, but ensure that nothing is obstructing the bolt from going through. Repeat this 9 times.
Take a new carrier bearing out of the box. It will contain two peices...
1-A carrier bearing with a race under it that is part of the bearing.
2-a race that fits on the outside of part #1. This part goes into the trans housing itself.
Put part #2 back into the box, and label the box in a way that you'll understand which bearing the race in the box goes with. For example, The first bearing I did was the "top" bearing, so I put the outer race that went with it back into the box which I labeled "top/driver's side". I'm not sure if this is important or not, but it's usually a good idea to match machined peices, as they are often machined in sets, so it can't hurt to not mix and match the bearings and races.
Now lube the diff that you're about to install the bearing onto. Place the bearing on top, and set up the diff securely on the press. I reccomend resting the assembly on the "shoulders" of the ring gear so that you don't accidentally put pressure on the diff or the bolts that you just pressed in.
Remember that inner part of the carrier bearing I told you to save earlier? The inner race thing? Go get that. I figured out that it's critical to use this...because if you just use a large socket or something to press this bearing on, it will only go 95% on, since the socket (or whatever you use to press that fits the top lip on the bearing) will bottom out on the lip on the actual diff before it's down all the way.
Invert the part from the old diff and put it on the inside solid lip on the top of the bearing that you're pressing on. Press it. When you're done, you should notice that the bottom of the bearing is touching the diff, and that the diff itself sticks out a tiny bit past the top of the bearing that you just pressed on.
Now put the pink speedo gear on the other side (this may not apply to MSP gearboxes...not sure) and do the same thing to get the bearing on the other side.
The only thing left to do is to install the nuts (which I haven't done, because I don't know the torque spec) and install it.
Make sure you clean the hell out of your diff before you install it, and blow it off with compressed air.
Anyway, here's a continuation of the procedure. I keep getting too busy @ home to take pics, but I'll do it soon.
A buddy of mine removed the lower part of the bearing that was stuck on after we ruined said bearing. He probably used a puller tool to pull this off. What I'm referring to is the race that's under the bearing (although it's part of the bearing before you destroy it). Anyway, once you get this off, save it.
Next, you'll want to install the ring gear onto your new diff. Set it up on a press, with the ring gear side up. Make sure the holes are lined up. Press the diff down and it will eventually pop into the ring gear. Make sure to rotate the whole assembly a few times and press that too, just to make sure it's even all around.
Now you'll need to install the ARP hardware. These bolts have round flat heads, and the shafts are splined at the top, which indicates that they need to be pressed on. Set the diff up on the press ring gear up. Place one of the bolt so that the head is sticking out of the top of the ring gear. Make sure the gear is secured while you are pressing the bolt, but ensure that nothing is obstructing the bolt from going through. Repeat this 9 times.
Take a new carrier bearing out of the box. It will contain two peices...
1-A carrier bearing with a race under it that is part of the bearing.
2-a race that fits on the outside of part #1. This part goes into the trans housing itself.
Put part #2 back into the box, and label the box in a way that you'll understand which bearing the race in the box goes with. For example, The first bearing I did was the "top" bearing, so I put the outer race that went with it back into the box which I labeled "top/driver's side". I'm not sure if this is important or not, but it's usually a good idea to match machined peices, as they are often machined in sets, so it can't hurt to not mix and match the bearings and races.
Now lube the diff that you're about to install the bearing onto. Place the bearing on top, and set up the diff securely on the press. I reccomend resting the assembly on the "shoulders" of the ring gear so that you don't accidentally put pressure on the diff or the bolts that you just pressed in.
Remember that inner part of the carrier bearing I told you to save earlier? The inner race thing? Go get that. I figured out that it's critical to use this...because if you just use a large socket or something to press this bearing on, it will only go 95% on, since the socket (or whatever you use to press that fits the top lip on the bearing) will bottom out on the lip on the actual diff before it's down all the way.
Invert the part from the old diff and put it on the inside solid lip on the top of the bearing that you're pressing on. Press it. When you're done, you should notice that the bottom of the bearing is touching the diff, and that the diff itself sticks out a tiny bit past the top of the bearing that you just pressed on.
Now put the pink speedo gear on the other side (this may not apply to MSP gearboxes...not sure) and do the same thing to get the bearing on the other side.
The only thing left to do is to install the nuts (which I haven't done, because I don't know the torque spec) and install it.
Make sure you clean the hell out of your diff before you install it, and blow it off with compressed air.
CustomMSP came over tonight. We dropped my trans in 2.5 hours flat. That's gotta be some kind of record, especially since we don't have a lift or anything.
Then we took another hour taking it apart. i test fitted the quaife LSD assembly, and it didn't seem to rub on the gate or anything.
Then we took another hour taking it apart. i test fitted the quaife LSD assembly, and it didn't seem to rub on the gate or anything.
It does... I can guarantee you that it does... we had to put a "test patch" in place... which meant we stuck a wad of gum on the gate and then rotated the assembly... sure enough found the thing cut all the way down through the gum to the metal. kept shaving the gate until it didn't show metal anymore.... It definitely needs to be done and is super easy.. so I wouldn't risk not doing it.
top and the edge toward the inside of the tranny.. but mostly the top of the gate... are you doing it with the top of the case slipped on? that will hold the LSD a little more oriented with where it will actually go. I think we did it without the LSD being held just so we could be sure.
Yeah, I just took it off a couple minutes after I called and grinded it down.
I was wrong, it's one 12mm and one 10mm bolt.
So anyway, I ground it down (see pics), and reinstalled it. The gum didn't seem to move.
However, if I spun the diff slowly, it would seem to want to stop at one certain point, and I can't figure out why.
It's not the gate...because I took that completely out and it still happens. See attaced video.
I was wrong, it's one 12mm and one 10mm bolt.
So anyway, I ground it down (see pics), and reinstalled it. The gum didn't seem to move.
However, if I spun the diff slowly, it would seem to want to stop at one certain point, and I can't figure out why.
It's not the gate...because I took that completely out and it still happens. See attaced video.
Attachments
It'll all work out hehemay be a hair off center somewhere.. I know my speedo gear didn't go on perfect on the MSP LSD because the gear was weird...b ut the quaife should be better... if the gum isn't getting marked when you are turning it you should be good... looks like you got the area we did.... I think we may have shaved it in an L shape... (so you did the lower leg of that already and we shaved more up the long side)... but you should be good.
