- :
- MP5T / 944
What about the coolant additives...
Q for MSP FMIC owners
- Thread starter Heathen23
- Start date
- :
- MP5T / 944
AWR Makes a ******* sweet radiator!!
Heh, yeah. I know they do. The problem is that will only work with the ION fmic. All the other kits use the stock smic location to route the plumbing so there is no room for a larger/longer radiator. It's a pretty easy (but not cheap) issue to address if you use a kit that involves cutting and routing the plumbing elsewhere. But if the kit routes the plumbing through the smic stock location you really can't use an aftermarket radiator. Your p5 radiator would actually be sufficient for an msp running the ion kit. The interesting thing is that I don't get the feeling people even running the ion kit are upgrading the radiator. So it basically sounds like the car maintains at safe levels w/o the upgraded radiator but I just wanted to make sure I wasn't getting a false read from my impressions.Brian MP5T said:
And the fan switch is a nice little feature you have added. I really have to wonder how often mine will turn on with the addition of a fmic considering it already runs quite often.
- :
- MP5T / 944
You could go custom... I had to.Heathen23 said:
- :
- MP5T / 944
CRDMS1 said:
Post some pics if you can when you get som time please...(evil)
iON Performance
Potential Scammer!
Heathen23 - upgrading your radiator to the full length one like the P5 will allow your car to run lower coolant temps. We generally recommend this for those who track their car (road racing etc). It would be also beneficial in heavy rush-hour type traffic. Running a different coolant mix, higher pressure rad cap, and Redline water wetter will help as well if you're on the stock MSP radiator.
Thanks Jack.iON Performance said:
It basically sounds like the general consensus is it's not a major issue and there are a few preventitive measures that can be taken. But unless you are going to track the car (not strip but road race) it's not a major concern. I'm pretty neurotic so it's good to know no one is having a major issue with overheating with the small msp radiator combined with the fmic.
One last thing if anyone cares to respond. Is it worth it? A few people have mentioned to me that the performance difference is minor which suprised me since dynos seem to put most kits in the 20hp range. I realize it's designed to increase the consistancy of temps but considering it's generating relatively large numbers on a dyno is it really not noticeable?
Thanks for the all the responses!
You've summarized it well, I think.Heathen23 said:
At stock boost or 1-2 PSI higher, I don't think an FMIC will buy you gobs of performance. It will flow better and have less pressure drop, so you will see a small increase in power.Heathen23 said:
That said, the higher you plan to boost, the more critical it becomes to have an upgraded intercooler. The corresponding power gains will be larger per PSI with an upgraded flow/cooling path.
No problem. I don't mind participating in threads that promote good dialogue and don't degenerate to name calling and finger pointingHeathen23 said:
Using a bazooka to kill a seagull! That's ginourmous. Looks nice though. He needs to use some elbow grease (or in this case some chrome polish) to clean up those endtanks.FC3s Boy said:
Yeah, I definitely realize upped boost is where the fmic plays the biggest role for power but why the big dyno numbers? FMIC's aren't typical power plants in any car, simply a support/efficiency mod. Maybe Jack from ion or someone else might have some insight why most fmic's are dynoing in the range of 20hp on the MSP because to me, although a nice feature, doesn't seem intuitive.
Water Wetter
I dont know if it will help or not, but i used to have this problem in my 2g Eclipse GST with the FMIC. The stock radiator sucks on it too. I used to use about to bottles of a chemical called Water Wetter in the radiator and it cooled its temperature down by about 15 - 20 deg. Seemed to always work well for me. You should try it out.
Chad
(flame2)
I dont know if it will help or not, but i used to have this problem in my 2g Eclipse GST with the FMIC. The stock radiator sucks on it too. I used to use about to bottles of a chemical called Water Wetter in the radiator and it cooled its temperature down by about 15 - 20 deg. Seemed to always work well for me. You should try it out.
Chad
(flame2)
iON Performance
Potential Scammer!
Heathen23 - a well designed FMIC set-up will try to minimize any pressure drops. That being said, as your vehicle runs, heat increases. On the stock I/C set-up, both the pipes and end tanks are prone to boost leak. This is one of the factors as to why there are "gains" from doing the FMIC. The FMIC is designed to reduce power loss as temperature goes up (compared to the stock set-up), which is the reason why the harder the runs (and longer the runs) the larger the difference in power output pre/post FMIC install.
Another reason why there are some gains with a properly designed FMIC is that you have increased the "reserve" amount of air between the turbo and throttle body. (ie: larger volume).
The gains etc are all relative to the car being static or in motion.
Our philosphy is to maximize the efficiency out of the vehicle, such that for every increase in boost pressure, the maximum potential is yielded w/ minimal stress to the car. Thus increasing the duribility & lifetime of use.
Another reason why there are some gains with a properly designed FMIC is that you have increased the "reserve" amount of air between the turbo and throttle body. (ie: larger volume).
The gains etc are all relative to the car being static or in motion.
Our philosphy is to maximize the efficiency out of the vehicle, such that for every increase in boost pressure, the maximum potential is yielded w/ minimal stress to the car. Thus increasing the duribility & lifetime of use.
Yeah, I completely understand (as would anyone else) why over a number of runs a fmic has greater efficiency thus showing better hp numbers than the same car w/o a less efficient ic. But that would show a number that holds more consistant not an increasing or gain hp number.iON Performance said:
"Another reason why there are some gains with a properly designed FMIC is that you have increased the "reserve" amount of air between the turbo and throttle body"
^is the only reason why I would see an increase (not just a greater consistancy) to hp numbers.
Thanks Jack for very complete and helpful answers!
Last edited:
iON Performance
Potential Scammer!
Heathen23 - the reason why the differences in power figures gets larger and larger is when air becomes heated, it requires less space. It also has less "potential energy" (b/c of less O2 molecules per given volume). Thus when an I/C core is heat soaked, every consecuative run will be lower then the previous until you hit a "saturation point" at which the #'s don't get any lower. The point at which the I/C hits the saturation point is the real measure of power difference. That's the reason why we tested our own set-up till it hit saturation.
Last edited: