Protege5 with multiple issues

Bought my p5 and week later it was stolen. Got it back few months later and the clutch disk failed. Got a new clutch installed. Broke the what I believe are the 2 safety and range switches. They have 2 green wires coming out. Broke the wires..put spades on them. Dunno if they work. My ignition was grenaded. It had a screwdriver in it. It would turn the bells and whistle on but no start just a push start...the starter was full of c klutch hair and oil. Got new starter in and nothing. Not even fuel pump. Ignition is ****** off tho. I don't have the money and am in between a rock and a hard place right now. Can I get a push button bypass or ?? And when I was shoving the screwdriver in the ignition it started draining my battery fast
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
There is an ignition interlock switch on the clutch pedal.

There are two separate switches on the clutch pedal. One is for the cruise control (to turn the cruise off when you push the clutch) and the other is the interlock switch.

The interlock switch can be bypassed by putting a wire in the connector, or you can plug a automotive fuse into the connector. It fits perfectly.

It's not the mini fuse that our car uses. It's the older design of fuse which is about twice as big.

Keep in mind that your car will start without the clutch being pushed in, so you'll need to be careful.


The starter interlock switch is a separate circuit and it has nothing to do with the neutral switch on the transmission.


You may have a bad/worn-out ignition switch as well. There have been a bunch of people here on the forum who have needed to replace it.
They had similar symptoms as you're having.
They would turn the key to "start" but the starter motor wouldn't kick in.

Screenshot_20220512-085108_DuckDuckGo.jpg


It's located on the backside of the ignition key and it's full of little switches that wear out over time.


This is the ignition lock cylinder.
The ignition starter switch plugs into the back side of it, opposite the key.

A new lock cylinder is quite expensive.

Screenshot_20220512-085036_DuckDuckGo.jpg
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
You can test your ignition interlock switch by unplugging it and put an ohmeter across the switch side of the connector.
It should switch from an open circuit (OL) to a closed circuit (0 ohms, or close to it) when the clutch pedal is pushed.


Your problem may vary well be your ignition switch though?

This is the cruise control switch on the clutch pedal.

Screenshot_20220512-094446_DuckDuckGo.jpg
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I can't find the starter interlock switch at Rockauto.
They might call it something different?

But you can use the picture to know what switch is what on the clutch pedal.
 
You can test your ignition interlock switch by unplugging it and put an ohmeter across the switch side of the connector.
It should switch from an open circuit (OL) to a closed circuit (0 ohms, or close to it) when the clutch pedal is pushed.


Your problem may vary well be your ignition switch though?

This is the cruise control switch on the clutch pedal.

View attachment 309987 View attachment 309988


I can't find the starter interlock switch at Rockauto.
They might call it something different?

But you can use the picture to know what switch is what on the clutch pedal.
Aye. So I I got it to turn over. Mind you I've got the cylinder out and the thing with the lite.sprimg came out to. Eventually I got big screwdriver in their with little scredriver I got it to turm over. The first 2 cranks sounds nkr.al then it change to that dragging labor sound? It felt like i.might have turn the ignition to far maybe?
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
,..The first 2 cranks sounds nkr.al then it change to that dragging labor sound? It felt like i.might have turn the ignition to far maybe?

That sounds like a weak battery to me.
I don't think you can turn it too far, but the lock cylinder would limit the movement of the ignition switch.

I suppose that if your ignition switch is going bad, it may turn over but the little switch inside that powers the ignition may not be working so it won't fire up.

The starter motor should only be on or off so if it's struggling to turn over the engine, I would suspect that the battery is weak.
 
Aye. Sounds about right. The ignition plastic part..the dowel with cross is broke in 4.spots. fell apart almost. I can painstakingly get the center.to click over. To run but not enough to.crank.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
That's not good.

Even if you get your car to start, it could die instantaneously at any point.
It's a safety issue.

You need a new ignition switch.

Screenshot_20220512-181412_DuckDuckGo.jpg
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You might be able to find a used ignition lock cylinder at a wrecker or on line, but don't buy a used ignition switch.
It would be a 20 year old, worn out, plastic part.

The automatic and manual transmission cars have different key lock cylinders.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
It looks like you can get a partial lock cylinder for less money if your other parts aren't damaged.

Rockauto doesn't have one for a manual transmission though.

I don't know how or why those parts would be different?

Screenshot_20220512-183110_DuckDuckGo.jpg


Screenshot_20220512-183110_DuckDuckGo.jpg
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
Well, do what you can to get it going and try to get a new ignition switch, even a used one, as soon as possible.

The ignition switch has a whole bunch of little switches inside.

Screenshot_20220513-084206_Acrobat for Samsung.jpg



If one of those switches looses contact, while you're driving, your car could just die out of nowhere.

That has happened before to forum members and their switch wasn't broken into pieces.

With your center piece broken, the little switches inside may not be in alignment or could fall out of alignment if you drive over a bump or something.

If your car stalls, you will have no power brakes or power steering, so be prepared for very a heavy brake pedal and steering wheel in case that happens.


Ohh,.. those prices from Rockauto are in Canadian dollars.
It's about ¾ of the price in US dollars.
 
Well, do what you can to get it going and try to get a new ignition switch, even a used one, as soon as possible.

The ignition switch has a whole bunch of little switches inside.

View attachment 310053


If one of those switches looses contact, while you're driving, your car could just die out of nowhere.

That has happened before to forum members and their switch wasn't broken into pieces.

With your center piece broken, the little switches inside may not be in alignment or could fall out of alignment if you drive over a bump or something.

If your car stalls, you will have no power brakes or power steering, so be prepared for very a heavy brake pedal and steering wheel in case that happens.


Ohh,.. those prices from Rockauto are in Canadian dollars.
It's about ¾ of the price in US dollars.
I took the ignition switch apart. Springs and copper stuff went everywhere. I put it back to together...works for now...in gotta bleed the clutch by myself
 
Well, do what you can to get it going and try to get a new ignition switch, even a used one, as soon as possible.

The ignition switch has a whole bunch of little switches inside.

View attachment 310053


If one of those switches looses contact, while you're driving, your car could just die out of nowhere.

That has happened before to forum members and their switch wasn't broken into pieces.

With your center piece broken, the little switches inside may not be in alignment or could fall out of alignment if you drive over a bump or something.

If your car stalls, you will have no power brakes or power steering, so be prepared for very a heavy brake pedal and steering wheel in case that happens.


Ohh,.. those prices from Rockauto are in Canadian dollars.
It's about ¾ of the price in US dollars.
Aye
The banjo bolt for the slave cylinder..i had old parts from awhile back and were gonna say my gf got the banjo.bolt from the brakes mixed up with the slave banjo....one has 3 holes the other 2.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
Aye
The banjo bolt for the slave cylinder..i had old parts from awhile back and were gonna say my gf got the banjo.bolt from the brakes mixed up with the slave banjo....one has 3 holes the other 2.

Do you mean the bleeder screw??

Screenshot_20220513-135419_Acrobat for Samsung.jpg


Screenshot_20220513-135518_Acrobat for Samsung.jpg


Screenshot_20220513-145045_Acrobat for Samsung.jpg
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
I found my rear caliper and checked out the banjo bolt and the bleeder screw,..

IMG_20220513_141005.jpg
IMG_20220513_141016.jpg
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IMG_20220513_141548.jpg

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My bleeder screw only has one hole through it.
It is just on one side.

The banjo bolt has a hole drilled right through it, so 2 holes in it.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
Ohh,..
By the way,..

This is a link to the full factory service manual for the Protégé5,..

It's got all the info., and lots of diagrams.
(keep in mind that a lot of the diagrams were actually pictures drawn by 6 year olds with crayons. lol)


 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
Just an FYI.
The banjo bolt is called a banjo bolt because it kinda looks like a banjo.

It would be a short, stubby, fat banjo in this case. lol

IMG_20220513_143722.jpg
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
I think that you're fine if you mixed up your bleeder screws from the calipers and your slave cylinder.

Bleeder screws are a standardized kinda thing.

As long as it threaded in without crossthreading you should be good

You can buy new bleeder screws that may have 1, 2 or three holes.



But check your brakes !!!

Get your GF to push hard on the brake pedal while you look underneath for any kind of leak or dripping.

If you have no leaks or drips, you're good to go.


Same with the clutch.
(but the clutch can only release so far, so it's not possible to build up any real pressure. )
 
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Bro, gf ran off with the neighbor guy. All on my own here. The banjo bolts...1 has a hole in the thread the other a hold in the thread that goes thru the diameter.. I can't get this clutch to bleed by myself. I got a brake bleed buddy bottle with hose over valve wrench to. I pump the pedal and about 1/4 it has a very loud click. It's not the switches. It's the rod like sliding off to the side its really sloppy feelingmbignhold it with pressure it seems to pump but I haven't any were. Losses the the valve after about 3 billion hand click type pumps..nuthin.. I can bleed brakes alone so I got the idea...and i can't buy parts even used ...gotta rebuild it and make it work. I don't have a choice so any bandaid I can throw on it llz teach me sir
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
I can't get this clutch to bleed by myself. I got a brake bleed buddy bottle with hose over valve wrench to.

I'm almost positive that a brake bleed buddy won't work to bleed the clutch, unless you have a vacuum pump included with the kit.

Screenshot_20220514-030905_DuckDuckGo.jpg


Losses the the valve after about 3 billion hand click type pumps..nuthin..

I'm pretty sure that if you just have a drain bottle like this,.. you are supposed to open the bleeder screw before you pump the pedal...

Screenshot_20220514-031103_DuckDuckGo.jpg
Screenshot_20220514-030814_DuckDuckGo.jpg


...gotta rebuild it and make it work. I don't have a choice so any bandaid I can throw on it llz teach me sir

Try to find someone to help you bleed your clutch.
Offer them a beer or a Big Mac or something.
Their job is easy.
Pump the pedal 3 times, then push it and hold it in.

Then you loosen the bleeder screw and drain it into the bottle while checking for bubbles.

It should only take about 10 minutes.

I pump the pedal and about 1/4 it has a very loud click.

Don't worry about the click for now.
It could just be bubbles popping or something.



Keep in mind that the clutch master cylinders and slave cylinders on our car have been known to fail.
They are 20 years old now.

The seals on the plungers fail,..

Screenshot_20220514-034057_Acrobat for Samsung.jpg
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The bore in the cylinders get corroded, pitted and scratched and can't hold pressure.

To test for that, you can push your clutch to the floor and hold it, (once you get your clutch properly bled) and see if the pedal slowly loses pressure.
Or if you can't get any pressure on the clutch pedal at all, then your seals and bores have failed.


If your clutch pedal was working before you changed your clutch, then chances are that it is still working.
 
I'm almost positive that a brake bleed buddy won't work to bleed the clutch, unless you have a vacuum pump included with the kit.

View attachment 310095



I'm pretty sure that if you just have a drain bottle like this,.. you are supposed to open the bleeder screw before you pump the pedal...

View attachment 310096 View attachment 310097



Try to find someone to help you bleed your clutch.
Offer them a beer or a Big Mac or something.
Their job is easy.
Pump the pedal 3 times, then push it and hold it in.

Then you loosen the bleeder screw and drain it into the bottle while checking for bubbles.

It should only take about 10 minutes.



Don't worry about the click for now.
It could just be bubbles popping or something.



Keep in mind that the clutch master cylinders and slave cylinders on our car have been known to fail.
They are 20 years old now.

The seals on the plungers fail,..

View attachment 310098 View attachment 310099


The bore in the cylinders get corroded, pitted and scratched and can't hold pressure.

To test for that, you can push your clutch to the floor and hold it, (once you get your clutch properly bled) and see if the pedal slowly loses pressure.
Or if you can't get any pressure on the clutch pedal at all, then your seals and bores have failed.


If your clutch pedal was working before you changed your clutch, then chances are that it is still working.
Well...my clutch disc turned into hair. It's sat for like 6 months with pedal depressed...looks all rusty to...the click is the rod sliding into the firewall. It slips at 1/4 in and the rod jankys around..ifni hold it with pressure applied it seems to pump some I think..