Problem with Hardpipe kit hitting master cylinder

Hmm...I dunno mine isn't hitting at all, that is strange. Guess motor mounts are something to definitely consider, maybe with more miles the mounts get a lil weaker and translates into more movement (shrug)
 
ok well lets say motor mounts are a solution...sounds like ppl are having success attaching rubber to the area of the pipe that rubs...what's the best way to attach a piece of rubber onto the cold pipe?
 
get a 3inch piece of 2" silicone hose and slit it down the side, then simply put it around the pipe at the area its rubbing..silicone is gripping so it should hold itself in place, if it doesnt you could use zipties to hold it in place...thats weird that its hitting there though I've yet to have mine even knick the master cylinder, perhaps like wicked said you should just try to readjust the fitament...so is this a problem with all the different hardpipes or just the turbohoses ones? At any rate I doubt it will put a hole through your pipes, all it should do is cause cosmetic damage, nothing performance wise...
 
Last edited:
celdridge said:
I wouldnt mind getting the motor mounts, but i have heard that the car is rougher at idle and during acceleration with them. Is that true?
I got the front MT mount only, and it reduced engine movement alot. Your car will shake only a bit when idling, but it isn't serious. They do break in and soften a bit after the initial install, so the vibration is worst when you first put it in. In my opinion the benefits more than outweigh the costs. If anything, I actually like the vibration, I feel more connected to my car when driving it.
 
DSMConvert said:
get a 3inch piece of 2" silicone hose and slit it down the side, then simply put it around the pipe at the area its rubbing..silicone is gripping so it should hold itself in place, if it doesnt you could use zipties to hold it in place...thats weird that its hitting there though I've yet to have mine even knick the master cylinder, perhaps like wicked said you should just try to readjust the fitament...so is this a problem with all the different hardpipes or just the turbohoses ones? At any rate I doubt it will put a hole through your pipes, all it should do is cause cosmetic damage, nothing performance wise...
Yeah I might try adjusting it again for the 2nd time! And mine are the wagner pipes for the wagner fmic.
 
My HiBoost kit did that. I just loosened the fittings and pulled as far over as I could. It does not do that anymore. If that doesn't work for you then I would suggest putting some rubber in between there, because I have a pretty deep gash from it and I know that it will eventually put a hole in the pipe if it is not fixed.
 
Holy s***, I must have this problem, as well. I've noticed a strange clunking as well since I got my hardpipes! I'll have to check into this...I thought it was something serious.
 
anyone think its a bad idea that i ziptied some innertube rubber around it to stop the noise from happening anymore?..hehe i guess i'll check it tomorrow after my morning commute if it starts to melt.
 
I just checked, and hell yeah, that's happening to me, too. Guess I'll be wrapping some rubber around it tomorrow.
 
READ THIS!!!!
wicked said:
this was a problem we encountered when we first made the pipes,and all you need to do is reposition them,it's not a big deal,they are just a litle of of where they need to be.it should take you a whole 3 minutes.
READ THIS!!
 
wicked said:
READ THIS!!!!
READ THIS!!


Thanks wiked and Cullen for your help. I talked to Cullen yesterday on the phone and it appears that i was trying to adjust them incorrectly. I figured they needed to seat more snug onto the IC and intake openings, but the real problem is on the pipe side of the couplers. Here is Cullen's instructions:

1. Loosen the hose clamps ont he pipe side of the IC and the intake (not the side attached to the IC or intake, but the other side of the coupler)

2. You might have to heat up the silicon hose couplers to get them malable enough to work with, but twist them back and forth until you get them to seat farther into the coupler. I got almost another inch of clearance out of mine. It takes some persuasion to get them in there, but they will go in more. I have about 2 inches now between the upper pipe and the master cylinder. I doubt it will hit now.

3. Get the AWR front motor mounts, Cullen says they are a must (and i trust him fully on the subject)
 
Hope you are in the clear now Chad... LMK

Please do not put rubber in between the cylinder and the pipe. This will close the gap between the cylinder and pipe making it hit more often if the pipes are on incorrectly. There is a pic attached which explains what CEldrige was stating to fix the issue. Adjust the pipes so there is plenty of room between the pipe and the cylinder.

As you can see in the second picture, all the pipes are the same; no one should have clearance problems.

Regarding the AWR motor mounts... It should be the first modifcation done before ANY other aftermarket parts, it is a must for the MSP. Even for a stock MSP with no modifications.

Here is the motor mount guide...

Stiffometer
**Front/Auto (No Mods)
****Frount/Manual (Under 15psi)
*******Front/Auto and Rear (Over 15psi)
*********Front/Manual and Rear (Full Race)

(cool)

Thank you.
 

Attachments

  • turbohoses_kit_4.webp
    turbohoses_kit_4.webp
    29.4 KB · Views: 108
  • th_pipes.webp
    th_pipes.webp
    90.2 KB · Views: 108
Last edited:
The rubber actually helped out alot. I'm just gonna keep checking on it, making sure its not affecting anything adversely.

But it will be a TEMPORARY fix, until I order a front manual motor mount from you, Cullen!
 
********** said:
Hope you are in the clear now Chad... LMK

Please do not put rubber in between the cylinder and the pipe. This will close the gap between the cylinder and pipe making it hit more often if the pipes are on incorrectly. There is a pic attached which explains what CEldrige was stating to fix the issue. Adjust the pipes so there is plenty of room between the pipe and the cylinder.

As you can see in the second picture, all the pipes are the same; no one should have clearance problems.

Regarding the AWR motor mounts... It should be the first modifcation done before ANY other aftermarket parts, it is a must for the MSP. Even for a stock MSP with no modifications.

Here is the motor mount guide...

Stiffometer
**Front/Auto (No Mods)
****Frount/Manual (Under 15psi)
*******Front/Auto and Rear (Over 15psi)
*********Front/Manual and Rear (Full Race)

(cool)

Thank you.


Pics ... where ?
 
********** said:
Fix'd thanks.
I just got my pipes from you yesterday. I tried putting them on today and found a problem. I have the stock intake with the turbohoses hardpipes and the HKS BOV. There is not enough room for the BOV. It won't fit between the stock intake pipe and the battery. What's the scoop? Hopefully I don't have to buy an aftermarket intake.

Please help.
 
rahrcr said:
I just got my pipes from you yesterday. I tried putting them on today and found a problem. I have the stock intake with the turbohoses hardpipes and the HKS BOV. There is not enough room for the BOV. It won't fit between the stock intake pipe and the battery. What's the scoop? Hopefully I don't have to buy an aftermarket intake.

Please help.

Just replace your airbox with a cone filter. It will giv eyou enough room to resolve your clearance issues. I did this to my car since my Hiboost FMIC kit came in before my Perrin SRI did.
 
Back