Thanks, I think.peepsalot said:Just get a motor mount or mounts and quit'cher bitchen. The motor should not be flinging itself all over the engine bay anyways..
Thanks, I think.peepsalot said:Just get a motor mount or mounts and quit'cher bitchen. The motor should not be flinging itself all over the engine bay anyways..
I got the front MT mount only, and it reduced engine movement alot. Your car will shake only a bit when idling, but it isn't serious. They do break in and soften a bit after the initial install, so the vibration is worst when you first put it in. In my opinion the benefits more than outweigh the costs. If anything, I actually like the vibration, I feel more connected to my car when driving it.celdridge said:I wouldnt mind getting the motor mounts, but i have heard that the car is rougher at idle and during acceleration with them. Is that true?
Yeah I might try adjusting it again for the 2nd time! And mine are the wagner pipes for the wagner fmic.DSMConvert said:get a 3inch piece of 2" silicone hose and slit it down the side, then simply put it around the pipe at the area its rubbing..silicone is gripping so it should hold itself in place, if it doesnt you could use zipties to hold it in place...thats weird that its hitting there though I've yet to have mine even knick the master cylinder, perhaps like wicked said you should just try to readjust the fitament...so is this a problem with all the different hardpipes or just the turbohoses ones? At any rate I doubt it will put a hole through your pipes, all it should do is cause cosmetic damage, nothing performance wise...
READ THIS!!wicked said:this was a problem we encountered when we first made the pipes,and all you need to do is reposition them,it's not a big deal,they are just a litle of of where they need to be.it should take you a whole 3 minutes.
wicked said:READ THIS!!!!
READ THIS!!
********** said:Hope you are in the clear now Chad... LMK
Please do not put rubber in between the cylinder and the pipe. This will close the gap between the cylinder and pipe making it hit more often if the pipes are on incorrectly. There is a pic attached which explains what CEldrige was stating to fix the issue. Adjust the pipes so there is plenty of room between the pipe and the cylinder.
As you can see in the second picture, all the pipes are the same; no one should have clearance problems.
Regarding the AWR motor mounts... It should be the first modifcation done before ANY other aftermarket parts, it is a must for the MSP. Even for a stock MSP with no modifications.
Here is the motor mount guide...
Stiffometer
**Front/Auto (No Mods)
****Frount/Manual (Under 15psi)
*******Front/Auto and Rear (Over 15psi)
*********Front/Manual and Rear (Full Race)
(cool)
Thank you.
Fix'd thanks.celdridge said:Pics ... where ?
I just got my pipes from you yesterday. I tried putting them on today and found a problem. I have the stock intake with the turbohoses hardpipes and the HKS BOV. There is not enough room for the BOV. It won't fit between the stock intake pipe and the battery. What's the scoop? Hopefully I don't have to buy an aftermarket intake.********** said:Fix'd thanks.
rahrcr said:I just got my pipes from you yesterday. I tried putting them on today and found a problem. I have the stock intake with the turbohoses hardpipes and the HKS BOV. There is not enough room for the BOV. It won't fit between the stock intake pipe and the battery. What's the scoop? Hopefully I don't have to buy an aftermarket intake.
Please help.