Problem Blow off valve Forge

[Minischumi]

Hello,

A few months ago, I started a OEM Bypass Valve Replacement Forge, Special Mazdaspeed3.

This morning to go to work, the witness Chek engine turns bizarre, by asking the car last night, no witnesses .... more, I traveled more than 3000km and the output of Dijon and with no Dump worry.

I handed the original Blow off valve and over LED on, I deduced that the Blow off valve is the fault ....

Could this coming from the spring is relaxed and allows too much air? Forge provided 3 springs with different hardness, it myself remainder 2 hardest ....

Thanks

 

[StealthWyvern]

I'm at a lose here....

 

[clos561]

Hello,

A few months ago, I started a OEM Bypass Valve Replacement Forge, Special Mazdaspeed3.

This morning to go to work, the witness Chek engine turns bizarre, by asking the car last night, no witnesses .... more, I traveled more than 3000km and the output of Dijon and with no Dump worry.

I handed the original Blow off valve and over LED on, I deduced that the Blow off valve is the fault ....

Could this coming from the spring is relaxed and allows too much air? Forge provided 3 springs with different hardness, it myself remainder 2 hardest ....

Thanks

tricky wording u got there, did u get your recall work done? the check engine could come on cuz of it...if not, get it scanned , find the code, or just take it to the dealer....(deadhorse)

 

[SharkDiver]

If you have a check engine light on you need to check and see what code you are getting.I would not change anything untill then.

 

[AJ08]

you confuse me.. i think the only thing i got out of that was check engine light and forge bov

 

[Ryz]

He was using a translator like babblefish or someother.

 

[Minischumi]

Sorry for the English, I use google translation.

I spend the garage to see the error code.

What is the color of spring that you're using BPV in the forge?
Gold, Blue, Red

 

[aaronc7]

yellow (gold) is recommended by Forge. A lot of people use blue without problems though. What are you using?

 

[Minischumi]

I use the original one, the Yellow, I think the wear made too flexible and the problem could come from it.

 

[Ryz]

Use blue, better.

 

[Minischumi]

Ok, thank you, but it might not be too hard? Because my car is 100% original

 

[tru-boost]

+1 use the blue

 

[Vindikacione]

I went back to stock BPV temporarily. I think its too cold and I've gotten the CEL P2006 for Stuck Flutter Valve twice already (not sure if there is any relation).

Not only that I just recently had problems with the drive-by-wire throttle pulsating/fluctuating. In gear and just before down shifting the engine RPMs would not decrease causing a surging feeling to the power train, -I would hit the clutch and the RPMs wouldn't change (if it was at 2K when I hit the clutch, it stayed at 2k). VERY Weird. I turned off the engine and restarted the vehicle and the problem still continued. At idle the RPMs would skip and jump from 800 RPMs to 1400 RPMs, NOT Good. Sucked something fierce. Dashhawk registered no DTCs. CEL was off. I think it should of turned on.

Anyway- I pulled out the manual and started reading about the DCS and how it is designed to reduce torque in crappy weather/road conditions. Well, it was snowing that day and road conditions sucked. Car is still caked with salt (thank goodness for Zeibert). But, the car had the problem since I pulled it out of the garage, so there is no way it new to screw around with the DSC settings. Oh yeah- The battery was freakin' 1/2 way dead AGAIN! Damn cold.

This is what I did to fix it- DSC Switch before-and-during-cranking-mod.

I guess it "reflashed/reset" the ECU telling it to quit screw around with the DSC and therefore quit adjusting the throttle settings.

My best guess. Anyone else experience this problem with throttle fluctuations at idle and just prior to shifting?

BTW: I'm going to put the above in a new thread.