Probably my fault - injector question

So I went in for my 75k mileage service. I have a 2018 touring.

Things went well, tire rotation and oil change… need new air filter, wipers and all that normal jazz. Then they hit me with a fuel injector cleaner and some other cleaner bs. Decided to pay for it, because the ride has been great so go with the recommendation, right?

Get my car back and head home. Then the check engine light comes on. Long story short (lots of bs between then and this post) it turns out I now need to buy new injectors.

Bad gas (doubt it), service related (of course not), or just time to do it; I get told to go this route or run premium and see what happens.

Four months go by of running premium with no issue. Work happens and now I have to travel for work. 50/50 when I start the car I get the check engine light.

How the hell do I need injectors at 78k? Thoughts, experiences, sound right?
 
What type of 'injector cleaning' did they do? What was the charge?

Dirty injectors to me means that there's something clogging the injectors, either partially or fully.

According to your dealer, how is the premium fuel going to get past the clog?

Or are they saying that by running premium that eventually, if you're lucky, the clog will get cleaned out from the higher-octane fuel? And the fact that they cleaned your injectors and now you have issues with said injectors, this is just coincidence?
 
x2 on figuring out the code associated with the CEL. There are some cheap ELM327 Bluetooth OBD2 adapters you can get online. Plug it into the OBD2 port and use a free app like Torque Lite to pair to the adapter and scan to get the code. The code will give you a clearer reason for the check engine light. It may not even have anything to do with the fuel injectors.

Assuming you're in the US, you're out of warranty. Also assuming the injectors are the issue, I would see if you can find a place that can flow test/service fuel injectors. This way, you can determine if one or all injectors need to be replaced, you may be able to save some cash by only replacing the bad injectors.
 
First, find out the exact code(s) causing the check engine light.

Second, post it here.
^This is correct. No need for OP to jump to conclusions and stress out if the car is running fine. Sometimes injection cleaning (depending on what dealer actually did) may involve codes to alert the driver. Codes which may go away after a while or may be cleared using a cheap OBDII scanner like sm1ke suggested which will display the code and even clear them.

Start here.
 
Valid questions and stupid me for not getting that info. I’ll see if I can find it on some service paperwork.

So I go in for service, car is fine with no issues. They recommend a throttle body cleaner and an injector cleaning service. I tell them no but somehow decide to do the throttle body. Take the car home and no issues.

Next day, check engine light. They test it and say it’s an injector issue. They run two cans of cleaner through it and it’s still not coming to pressure. They want to replace the injectors but of course they are on back order.

I take the car home and run the tank low. From there I run premium and the light goes off and doesn’t come back on. I run a regular gas tank for a couple days and light comes back on.

Back to premium light goes off. Now it’s intermittent between start ups and affects performance in no way. Just comes and goes. Before I go back and agree to the $1200 quote they gave me on the injectors, or trade it in for the Cherokee I’m looking at, I figured I would see if y’all have seen this before.
 
I understand you went in for service and subsequently got a cel. It seems logical that they are related as you never got a cel prior. But without the actual code, it could be 66,593 other things ranging from bad sensor, loose connector, low blinker fluid, etc.

I suggest you get a cheap $30 obd2 reader on Amazon. It can save you a lot of money and headaches.
 
At only 75k miles, it's possible but unlikely.

Owned several cars, usually replaced when started having problems which was usually around the 130k mark . Whether it was VW, Toyota, chevy or Ford, all about the same.

Replaced the VW myself for cheap... But that was when cars had more engine compartment room and were easier to work on.
Nowadays just let my local guy do it.

$1200 seems very steep for injector job..

if the cars out of warranty, find a good local mechanic to diagnose the problem and fix for you. I never understand why people go to dealers for this stuff.
DIY or local wrench is the way to go.

My opinion is biased as I've had bad experiences at Toyota dealers screwing up cv joint and axle install.

However, as a FYI... Some mechanics(not always at dealers) know how to trick sensors to make car appear to have problems. My friends car was having problems after being at a dealership...of course it was going to be an expensive fix. had em take it to my mechanic.
He said somehow a sensor had become disconnected, connected it backup, no charge.

Yeah, trust the dealer.
 
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Valid questions and stupid me for not getting that info. I’ll see if I can find it on some service paperwork.

So I go in for service, car is fine with no issues. They recommend a throttle body cleaner and an injector cleaning service. I tell them no but somehow decide to do the throttle body. Take the car home and no issues.

Next day, check engine light. They test it and say it’s an injector issue. They run two cans of cleaner through it and it’s still not coming to pressure. They want to replace the injectors but of course they are on back order.

I take the car home and run the tank low. From there I run premium and the light goes off and doesn’t come back on. I run a regular gas tank for a couple days and light comes back on.

Back to premium light goes off. Now it’s intermittent between start ups and affects performance in no way. Just comes and goes. Before I go back and agree to the $1200 quote they gave me on the injectors, or trade it in for the Cherokee I’m looking at, I figured I would see if y’all have seen this before.
Know this...your 2018 CX-5 is a used compact SUV meaning its in high demand in the used market. They WANT/NEED your trade in.

Run Premium for now if that's what it takes to make the light go away. I seriously think you should take the wait and see approach. See if the problem goes away entirely. Don't move to hastily and trade in your car just yet.

In hindsight you did not need the throttle/injection cleaning services. Its good to do.....both services are actually something easy you can do yourself as long as you take precautions.

Speaking on behalf of all the friends here we'd hate to see you get taken advantage off.
 
If the injectors were really bad I don't think the car would run very well at all. Can they be intermittent?

I've had idle problems that I attributed to dirty injectors. A buildup on the tips prevented proper atomization of the
fuel.

Sometimes injectors drip while the engine is off, causing starting problems.
 
If the Throttle body was cleaned with a TB spray Cleaner on the engine, they may have inadvertently affected the MAS or more likely the MAP sensor. It is very unlikely that all the fuel injectors have gone bad at the same time.
 
⋯ I suggest you get a cheap $30 obd2 reader on Amazon. It can save you a lot of money and headaches.
Or OP can simply take his CX-5 to any auto parts stores such as AutoZone and have them read the code for free. They can even give you a list of possible causes and parts need to be fixed or replaced.
 
If the Throttle body was cleaned with a TB spray Cleaner on the engine, they may have inadvertently affected the MAS or more likely the MAP sensor. It is very unlikely that all the fuel injectors have gone bad at the same time.
True......only way we know for sure are the codes.
 
Running premium shouldn't have anything to do with anything. Techron is good stuff.
Usually the premium gas (such as Shell V-Power NiTRO+ premium gasoline) has much higher content of detergents. That could be why the dealer suggests it, and the engine runs better with it under current situation.

Shell V-Power NiTRO+ Premium Gasoline is engineered with four levels of defense against gunk, corrosion, wear and friction to help keep your engine running like new. * This patented formula is our best, most advanced fuel ever.”
 
True......only way we know for sure are the codes.
Not always. If there is a small residue on the contact area of a MAP it can report the wrong information to the to ECU . This will not always generate a DTC but rather an anomalous event that is not within the original ECU programing like say a PO300 DTC is. There may be in the monitors a state of NOT READY and that area may indicate where to look for the trouble? Removing the MAP & MAS and cleaning it with electrical parts cleaner specifically for sensors like the MAP and MAS like CRC Electrical Cleaner may remedy the problem?
 
Usually the premium gas (such as Shell V-Power NiTRO+ premium gasoline) has much higher content of detergents. That could be why the dealer suggests it, and the engine runs better with it under current situation.

Shell V-Power NiTRO+ Premium Gasoline is engineered with four levels of defense against gunk, corrosion, wear and friction to help keep your engine running like new. * This patented formula is our best, most advanced fuel ever.”
I realized that when I wrote my reply, if that's the case then they should've recommended Shell, not all premium fuels have additional detergents compared to the lower grades. Too many people, including mechanics, think premium fuel is some kind of snake oil and will solve weird problems. Mazda has injector cleaner, why not recommend that, or Techron, which is very good. You may be right about why they said that. I just never like that recommendation.
 
I hate that I have run out of cool “stuff” to post on this forum.

I forgot how much I love this place. Short 16 hour day at work today but I’m going to swing by a shop tomorrow to get the code pulled. I didn’t forget and I’m not ignoring y’all, just busy AF at work.

I appreciate y’all
 
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