Prince Valorum's 95 626 Build Thread
- Thread starter PrinceValorum
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PrinceValorum
Member
- :
- 95 626 FS, 89 Toyota Derux 4x4
MEGA POST COMMENCE!
Here are some pics from the other night.
Boy, it sure feels baller to have to drive up on blocks of wood to fit the jack under my car. A low profile jack would make life easier, but then I wouldn't have anything to complain about...
Cancer near driver side rear subframe mount
New rear brake lines next to the old garbage
Heck yeah, sky jacker!
5 ton jack stands really go high, these are all the way up, too, haha. They're positioned on the sub frame mounting bolts. I actually have enough room to sit under the rear in a hunched position!
Test fitting the new endlinks and sway bar. It's basically the best way to do it. (stash) At the time, I wasn't happy with how the endlink was positioned in relation to the sway bar, as it wasn't perpendicular exactly, but I think it looks fine now.
Examining how much room I have for spacers/washers, should I need to try to straighten things out for the endlinks. I don't think that'll be necessary at this point, though.
The included bolt came with a fancy nylock nut that I didn't want to wear out, so I found some other hardware in the workshop.
Passenger side, closer to being mocked up
Driver's side with bolts, looks like it might have some wonky angle there, it's hard to tell what is a good thing to base the perspective off of
Beefing up the passenger side sway bar bracket mock up
Driver's side, with the wheel jacked all the way up to normal position (load bearing). It looks like the angles are better.
I just think this is a cool picture. I've never seen anything like this before, but it so clearly illustrates what a sway bar does. As the driver's side is loaded, it forces the passenger side down. Now, if it were still connected to the sway bar bracket like it should be (it broke the zip ties, lul), it would push up on the passenger side suspension and attempt to load that side, also. In effect it would increase the spring rates in the rear while cornering forces are applied. I'm very visual, so this was a cool moment for me.
Carnage
An example of just how far the bar moved
New bushing and bracket next to the old
Hmmm, it looks like the bendy end parts of the Contour bar are shorter than the 626 one, as it's pulling the endlinks forward too much. I'll be sure to position the new mounts so that that won't happen in the future.
Aftermath
Attacking with vengeance, these are the old sway bar bracket mounts
No more!
One of these is not like the others...
Another of the old crap
End that snapped off, there wasn't enough room to get in there and do anything about it. (unamused)
I thought the nut was round, but it turns out it was square. It's welded in there, and even after trying to squeeze a wrench in there, I couldn't get it fully seated on the nut, and even without seating it, the sides were touching and I couldn't try to turn it. My buddy suggested I should just put a wrench on it and snap the welds... Easier said than done.
Here are some pics from the other night.
Boy, it sure feels baller to have to drive up on blocks of wood to fit the jack under my car. A low profile jack would make life easier, but then I wouldn't have anything to complain about...
Cancer near driver side rear subframe mount
New rear brake lines next to the old garbage
Heck yeah, sky jacker!
5 ton jack stands really go high, these are all the way up, too, haha. They're positioned on the sub frame mounting bolts. I actually have enough room to sit under the rear in a hunched position!
Test fitting the new endlinks and sway bar. It's basically the best way to do it. (stash) At the time, I wasn't happy with how the endlink was positioned in relation to the sway bar, as it wasn't perpendicular exactly, but I think it looks fine now.
Examining how much room I have for spacers/washers, should I need to try to straighten things out for the endlinks. I don't think that'll be necessary at this point, though.
The included bolt came with a fancy nylock nut that I didn't want to wear out, so I found some other hardware in the workshop.
Passenger side, closer to being mocked up
Driver's side with bolts, looks like it might have some wonky angle there, it's hard to tell what is a good thing to base the perspective off of
Beefing up the passenger side sway bar bracket mock up
Driver's side, with the wheel jacked all the way up to normal position (load bearing). It looks like the angles are better.
I just think this is a cool picture. I've never seen anything like this before, but it so clearly illustrates what a sway bar does. As the driver's side is loaded, it forces the passenger side down. Now, if it were still connected to the sway bar bracket like it should be (it broke the zip ties, lul), it would push up on the passenger side suspension and attempt to load that side, also. In effect it would increase the spring rates in the rear while cornering forces are applied. I'm very visual, so this was a cool moment for me.
Carnage
An example of just how far the bar moved
New bushing and bracket next to the old
Hmmm, it looks like the bendy end parts of the Contour bar are shorter than the 626 one, as it's pulling the endlinks forward too much. I'll be sure to position the new mounts so that that won't happen in the future.
Aftermath
Attacking with vengeance, these are the old sway bar bracket mounts
No more!
One of these is not like the others...
Another of the old crap
End that snapped off, there wasn't enough room to get in there and do anything about it. (unamused)
I thought the nut was round, but it turns out it was square. It's welded in there, and even after trying to squeeze a wrench in there, I couldn't get it fully seated on the nut, and even without seating it, the sides were touching and I couldn't try to turn it. My buddy suggested I should just put a wrench on it and snap the welds... Easier said than done.
PrinceValorum
Member
- :
- 95 626 FS, 89 Toyota Derux 4x4
Yeah, I miss having a sway bar so much I considered test driving it with the zip ties... But didn't because it was so much effort to get it jacked up, lol.
AzteCypher
black ops modifications..
- :
- 2001 Mazda Protege LX
That's a lot of cancer under there that you have to take care of. Any future plans on cleaning that off putting a coating on there?
PrinceValorum
Member
- :
- 95 626 FS, 89 Toyota Derux 4x4
Eh, not really at this point. Since I've got my truck now, the 626 shouldn't see any more winters. Figures, as just last year I bought snow tires for the 626. If things are compromised structurally, obviously I'll fix them, but at this point, some big boy go fast bits are soooo overdue... 
Now, to undercoat my truck like I planned...
And wooo! to Yuengling finally being available in Ohio! Had my first tall of it on draft today at Ray's!
Now, to undercoat my truck like I planned...And wooo! to Yuengling finally being available in Ohio! Had my first tall of it on draft today at Ray's!
AzteCypher
black ops modifications..
- :
- 2001 Mazda Protege LX
Nice! We've been hoping for it to be available in Texas but that's probably a snowball's chance in hell.
fishdonotbounce
Registered Zombie
- :
- 08.5 CWP Speed3
Go fast goodies before taking care of that rust? You wanna make the car go faster so it's harder on the brakes to make it stop lol.
PrinceValorum
Member
- :
- 95 626 FS, 89 Toyota Derux 4x4
Lol it's only blown a brake line once... I'll be replacing the brake lines and fuel lines during the swap to make it all safe. I'm not taking it on the track before that.
If the frame seems squishy, seems like a perfect excuse for a roll cage, eh?
If the frame seems squishy, seems like a perfect excuse for a roll cage, eh?
fishdonotbounce
Registered Zombie
- :
- 08.5 CWP Speed3
Yes that's true. You had me worried for a second there.
PrinceValorum
Member
- :
- 95 626 FS, 89 Toyota Derux 4x4
Sucks! They need to get with the program! It's so good everyone wants it! It seems like it's only available on the east coast.
AzteCypher
black ops modifications..
- :
- 2001 Mazda Protege LX
That's ONE way to lighten your car!
PrinceValorum
Member
- :
- 95 626 FS, 89 Toyota Derux 4x4
I might have to get my own stickers... :'(
AzteCypher
black ops modifications..
- :
- 2001 Mazda Protege LX
Buahahahaha!
PrinceValorum
Member
- :
- 95 626 FS, 89 Toyota Derux 4x4
I was wondering that, too. It was hard for me to get any kind of accurate idea since it wasn't in the exact right spot on the sway bar mounts. That's why I jacked up the wheel, but without some kind of 3d overlay of where it was before, it's pretty hard to tell how that changed the angles and position.
I'm sure I'll get pretty ocd and make lots of models before I finally weld the stuff on. I need to secure a place to power my welder, anyway. My buddy's garage that we're building lost power the other day for some reason. Only one light comes on, and it's really dim, so I'm not sure what the situation is.
I mean I'd love to have a spotless car, totally 100% rust free, no dings, perfect paint and interior, but then my ocd wouldn't let me drive it. It would sit in the garage and just be perfect. And that wouldn't be much fun. It still pains me to abuse it how I do, but I enjoy driving it, so I guess that's what it comes down to. :\
PrinceValorum
Member
- :
- 95 626 FS, 89 Toyota Derux 4x4
Shifter install has been nothing short of infuriating. It wouldn't have been bad if I could follow directions...
PrinceValorum
Member
- :
- 95 626 FS, 89 Toyota Derux 4x4
So behind on updating... Anyway the studio has power again. Apparently the lines going into the meter on the outside of the building got damaged or something, but it's working now that a dude from the electric company looked at it. So after I got off work, the day was spent gluing metal, tearing down part of a tree with the Yota, and putting new plug wires on my friend's E28 to fix a bog issue.
Yesss, that weld is so pretty! Ignore the others! It was practice!
Yesss, that weld is so pretty! Ignore the others! It was practice!
