power loss/loud sucking noise... help???

Yeah its bad it is not supposed to let any air pas because it is a diaphram and when you are boosting the vac lines have pressure now hence the boost and the diaphram in the WGA fills and opens the WG allowing it to cap off boost.

I just want you to know that your my hero lol. Ive been trying to figure out whats wrong for a while now. Now I get the joy of yelling at the dealer that my mods didnt break it... my mods didnt break it right?(dunno)
 
sounds like you guys already nailed it but i had a similar problem, after a few weeks of owning my car i got the wierd idle, and a strange sound coming from the engine as well, most of the same problems you guys have mentioned


i made the mistake of listening to a freind who didnt know his stuff, he said it was my new muffler "breaking itself" in and thats why when i put down the gas i was hearing a different hum. ended up being a vacum leak, problem solved, my boost gages started showing 20 vacum and 6 psi on boost :D

so definitly get that looked at
 
Nope I still have my problem I just order all my vac lines hopefully I
can find the problem then... anyone knows if there is trick to taking
out the plastic intercooler pipes??
 
use a blow dryer to heat up the end am make them a little softer to pull off....I didn't have one when I pulled mine off and man...what a PITA
 
I brought the car to a local performance shop... which took me forever to find, who would have thought there were basically no performance shops in the San Diego area (p.s. if you know a good one let me know) and they did a pressure test and the WGA is definately bad. they also said that the BPV is opening while under boost. But when i was playing around i capped it and there was absolutely no change in the cars driving was just as bad, no worse no better. So now i have to order the ATP WGA and get it installed within the next 11 days. anyone know the best place to order this from if time is of the essence? thanks
 
I brought the car to a local performance shop... which took me forever to find, who would have thought there were basically no performance shops in the San Diego area (p.s. if you know a good one let me know) and they did a pressure test and the WGA is definately bad. they also said that the BPV is opening while under boost. But when i was playing around i capped it and there was absolutely no change in the cars driving was just as bad, no worse no better. So now i have to order the ATP WGA and get it installed within the next 11 days. anyone know the best place to order this from if time is of the essence? thanks

DAM what a problem we have.... I replaced my turbo with WGA and I am
still stuck I don't know what to tell you but I am on the same boat.
anyone esle has any advise please speak freely...
 
DAM what a problem we have.... I replaced my turbo with WGA and I am
still stuck I don't know what to tell you but I am on the same boat.
anyone esle has any advise please speak freely...

If you haven't already check the vac lines around the IM (maybe a crack), and aside from that check the BPV or even the clamps on the BPV. If you are running anything more than stock (IC, Hard pipes, Mid-pipe, etc... not a CAI) I would be looking at the BPV opening just a little under boost until more PSI gets applied or a bad coupler connection. another thing anyone can do is if they have after market pipes on the intake replace all the clamps with t-bolts because those other ones (worm clams??) are really kinda crap...

Personally I think my problem is in the BPV (at least I hope), the stopper is not being held down strong enough when the turbo spools up initially but gets slammed shut when the PSI's start to move up. If this is the case re-do your line to the BPV straight of the Brake booster line with a vac block or just a tee. This will make sure the BPV stays down and the WGA will have a isolated line. If after that the noise is still around it could just be the BPV is shot and go get yourself the Forge BPV and say yay to better parts (first)


P.S. sorry for the wall of text
 
ok I am with you but I heard from the company that forge BPV is trash...
whats up with the Boostscience one from protege garage???






If you haven't already check the vac lines . If after that the noise is still around it could just be the BPV is shot and go get yourself the Forge BPV and say yay to better parts (first)
 
Rick are you ever going to listen to me and do a Boost leak test?
Why are you gonna spend 100+ dollars and get a BPV when the issues you are having are most like a boost leak compared to anything else.
 
I just want you to know that your my hero lol. Ive been trying to figure out whats wrong for a while now. Now I get the joy of yelling at the dealer that my mods didnt break it... my mods didnt break it right?(dunno)

I highly doubt it, they are trash and prone to failure. Almost everyone I have talked to with a MSP has had the WGA go bad.
 
Rick are you ever going to listen to me and do a Boost leak test?
Why are you gonna spend 100+ dollars and get a BPV when the issues you are having are most like a boost leak compared to anything else.

lol I was waiting for you to get back online (how f*ck you take off the
plastic intercooler pipes I almost broke my hand trying to remove it)?....
 
lol I was waiting for you to get back online (how f*ck you take off the
plastic intercooler pipes I almost broke my hand trying to remove it)?....

You can heat the bitches up with a blow drier or heat gun as previously stated. You can also drive around for a while until they get warm. There really is not an easy way to get them off. When I had to replace the cold pipe I busted out the dremel with the cutting wheel (freak)
 
You can heat the bitches up with a blow drier or heat gun as previously stated. You can also drive around for a while until they get warm. There really is not an easy way to get them off. When I had to replace the cold pipe I busted out the dremel with the cutting wheel (freak)

forget that if thats the case I will wait until I get the FMIC then change
all the piping... I will try the heat gun thing thanks I know it was mention
but I was waiting to here if someone esle had a different approach...
 
I want to go big and yes I know rebiulding the motor needs to be done
but for right now I would like to get as much HP as I possibly can without
blowing the motor ( I want to do it safely)...
 
which WGA should i get from ATP? i think the 6psi one is pretty much the same as the stock one but will i be limited to 6psi unless i get a new WGA in the future or can i push more out of that one? need to order asap so please help me out
 
You can always get a manual or electric boost controller, and raise to boost later. I would same get the 6psi one.
 

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