Post your free mod ideas for the MS3
- Thread starter fourthmeal
- Start date
i really didnt drive this after doing it but wow you can hear the BOV not loud as hell but good enough(stoned)
(humpleg)
i still love this car alot
I have a free idea, but it only works with a SRI or the BEGi cold air box.
The front of the battery box is removable. I don't know if that would force more are in at speed, but it is worth a shot. I am going to rig up a temp gauge this weekend and see if it makes a difference.
Here is the front of the battery box open.
I don't know if this working, but it was worth a shot.
The front of the battery box is removable. I don't know if that would force more are in at speed, but it is worth a shot. I am going to rig up a temp gauge this weekend and see if it makes a difference.
Here is the front of the battery box open.
I don't know if this working, but it was worth a shot.
It's not free, but it's only going to cost you about $3.00.
Buy one of those 'sticky' dash pads that have a sticky underside and a tacky surface, those kind about 6" by 3-4" and you can throw keys or cell phones on them onto your dash and they never move.
Cut it to fit the storage cubby hole by your left knee. Place sticky side down as you would on the dashboard. Enjoy your new cell phone compartment! I know before this NOTHING would stay in the damned little slot; now my cell phone stays perfectly motionless by my left knee, and I can see it light up right away when I'm getting a call.
(thinkbeer(outie)
Buy one of those 'sticky' dash pads that have a sticky underside and a tacky surface, those kind about 6" by 3-4" and you can throw keys or cell phones on them onto your dash and they never move.
Cut it to fit the storage cubby hole by your left knee. Place sticky side down as you would on the dashboard. Enjoy your new cell phone compartment! I know before this NOTHING would stay in the damned little slot; now my cell phone stays perfectly motionless by my left knee, and I can see it light up right away when I'm getting a call.
(thinkbeer(outie)
I actually read this whole thread under the assumption that it was about modding your car for free. I guess it's more about aruguing over cold air and cutting up airboxes. oh well.
Anyway, my idea for a "free" mod is this, and take it easy on me, cause I'm not 100% sure about the details. The computer reads boost from somewhere and there has to be a hose running to a sensor. if you put a t fitting in this hose with a really tiny hole in it, you should be able to bleed off enough air to up the boost safely to maybe 18-20 psi. I've heard people say each pound of boost is worth about 6 hp, so we're talking like 18-30 hp. that would be nice since a T fitting is only around $3.00 at home depot. I'm going to research more and try this mod out (now that I have a boost gauge installed) and make a full report. once I know sizes, (ie hole diameters for the sides of the T and the vent hole) you shouldn't even need a boost gauge to do this mod (even though in my opinion you'd be crazy not to know what exact boost pressure you're running).
Anyway, I'll dish when I get the info.
Anyway, my idea for a "free" mod is this, and take it easy on me, cause I'm not 100% sure about the details. The computer reads boost from somewhere and there has to be a hose running to a sensor. if you put a t fitting in this hose with a really tiny hole in it, you should be able to bleed off enough air to up the boost safely to maybe 18-20 psi. I've heard people say each pound of boost is worth about 6 hp, so we're talking like 18-30 hp. that would be nice since a T fitting is only around $3.00 at home depot. I'm going to research more and try this mod out (now that I have a boost gauge installed) and make a full report. once I know sizes, (ie hole diameters for the sides of the T and the vent hole) you shouldn't even need a boost gauge to do this mod (even though in my opinion you'd be crazy not to know what exact boost pressure you're running).
Anyway, I'll dish when I get the info.
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yes, I have read a lot on the topic and decided against this mod. I read the whole pdf mentioned above, and the turbo system in this car seems way more computerized than the SRT-4's system. It sounded like an interesting idea at first, but I think I would rather wait for some sort of tuning solution to be released that will control boost from the ECU side of things rather than the mechanical/physical side. oh well, time for more waiting.
cashmoney93
Member
- :
- Mazda 3, Mazdaspeed 6
can you do this with a regular mazda 3? I read somwhere that you can take off the snorkel and it helps as well.
The How To for stiffening your shifter mounts for free may be found at http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3568561&postcount=1
It explains how to modify your stock mounts to effectively make them solid giving the same effect as installing solid shifter bushings, no epoxy involved.
-enganear
I would never hack up the airbox. If you have any understanding of fluid dynamics you would know that not having an airhorn/velocity stack on there is going to hurt things.
The smarter approach is to modify the airbox with a bigger draw tube and a bigger velocity stack. The box is pressurized and needs something to help bring in air -- that's precisely what the velocity stack does. Note how even the stock airbox has it (albeit a small one)?
A dyno won't accurately show the difference because the car is not in motion. There is basically no air flowing over the velocity stack so you don't see the benefit it offers. Putting a big-ass fan right up to it will definitely prove my point. End even if you do gaing 5hp, you can't feel something that small. The butt dyno is terribly unreliable, especially when you associate sound & performance...louder does not equal faster.
In the end, it's an intake. Focusing too much on small components like that gets you nowhere...put your time and money into things that make real power.
The smarter approach is to modify the airbox with a bigger draw tube and a bigger velocity stack. The box is pressurized and needs something to help bring in air -- that's precisely what the velocity stack does. Note how even the stock airbox has it (albeit a small one)?
A dyno won't accurately show the difference because the car is not in motion. There is basically no air flowing over the velocity stack so you don't see the benefit it offers. Putting a big-ass fan right up to it will definitely prove my point. End even if you do gaing 5hp, you can't feel something that small. The butt dyno is terribly unreliable, especially when you associate sound & performance...louder does not equal faster.
In the end, it's an intake. Focusing too much on small components like that gets you nowhere...put your time and money into things that make real power.
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ihadacivicsi
Member
- :
- Speed 3 (True Red)
Cutting up a restrictive airbox can produce more HP
I laughed when I read this mod because this was the exact same mod people reccomended for the Mitsubishi Eclipse/Eagle Talon back in the 90s. That car had a 2 liter turbo engine. The stock airbox was highly restrictive and so people discovered that by cutting it open they could make decent HP gains.
I laughed when I read this mod because this was the exact same mod people reccomended for the Mitsubishi Eclipse/Eagle Talon back in the 90s. That car had a 2 liter turbo engine. The stock airbox was highly restrictive and so people discovered that by cutting it open they could make decent HP gains.
