possible recall???

of course the people with problems are gonna b****...

it's a universal law: if you go out of your way to please customers, maybe one out of 10 will go out of their way to say something nice about you to one or two people.

However... The second something goes wrong to make a customer concerned, they will tell everybody... parents, friends, forum members, all in an attempt to see what is wrong and whether they got screwed, etc etc...

I'm not sure I've seen anything that constitutes a major problem yet... and for a first model year... I think these cars have been pretty stable/happy... and in the meantime, random squeaks/problems are fixed under warranty and you get a loaner car so that you aren't stranded.
 
Parts...

You are probably waiting on the same back-ordered cluctch part I am waiting on...the 'slave cylinder'. Mine makes a squeeking/clicking noise every time I push it in 'and' when I release it. My dealer says the part is on "National Back-Order"...meaning that there is an issue going on with many owners/cars. I am going to check on these "newer" pads and see what the deal is.
 
Slave cylinder, eh?

Kind of makes me wonder if a little grease in the right spot near the linkage/slave cylinder would alleviate the squeak, or if the slave cylinder itself is actually faulty. For those that are waiting on this, are you still driving your cars? I would think it'd still be ok to drive - squeaky and perhaps a little mushiness in the pedal. But if it compromises the hydraulics...(leaking fluid?)

I wonder about the grease because it could be one of those blind stab new-car fixes where they'll opt to replace the part instead of diagnosing the problem, etc. But I doubt it....either way, doesn't sound too major if it's slave cyl.

I'm not sure I've seen anything that constitutes a major problem yet...
Click to expand...

Not that I can see. It's too bad if people come on and read about complaints of crunching engaging the reverse gear, or paint chipping, and get the mindset of major problems...but such is the forum life.
 
better to have the slave cylinder go out under warranty than later on. that gets expensive. s***, while they're at it, if they'd do it, you might want to have them replace the master cylinder too. they are both involved in the same hydraulic system so I wonder how they know it is the slave or the master cylinder. i guess that's why they are mechanics and I'm not...
 
skoot said:
i hate you people who whine about your problems tough luck you bought the car so stop crying like a little girl if you dont like the car sell it
Click to expand...
God forbid people try to find out if other owners of the same car have been experiencing the same problems, or to inform other owners of what they've come up against. Everybody knows the car's upsides, that's why they bought it, it's the downsides that need to be proliferated. Obviously these posts should be taken with a grain of salt, not every 3 is going to develop the same symptoms, but to say they should just suck it up or sell it? Come on, are you really that moronic? I've got a Mazdaspeed Protege, which has it's fair share of problems, hell, it's been at the dealership for over a week now getting a coolant leak fixed, but that doesn't mean I want to get rid of it. I love the car. Rest assured, however, that I'll be posting to the board when I get my car back what was wrong and exactly what the dealership did to fix it.
 
well said!

Well said MSP2746 and Willy65000,

I feel the exact same way, I love my car and dont want to sell it even with the problems. This car rocks, but needs some fine tuning and thats why we post.

Skoot ought to be kicked off this forum or never allowed to post again....What a whiner "he" is....sounds like he has "hate" running through his soul....he needs help. It is a shame we have to be associated with someone like that....and he is a newbee at that. Suck this Skoot(bj)
 
Hey look I'm kinda new here I haven't posted yet but I have been reading for a while now and well all I can say is I check here to see what is wrong with other mazda 3's and see if I also have any of those problems. I have had mine for over 3 or 4 months and have had no problems at all. Only thing is those brake pads which I will be getting replaced. I have a 1200 watt amp in my 3 and two 12" subs (AB's) I have after market 10000K series HID bulbs, tint, white underbody lights just for show don't even really like them and might take them off and all my stuff was self installed. I don't know about everyone else and their problems but I may have yet to expierence these defects if so I sure do like the fact that I may have a heads up by reading about others problems here so I say keep posing them let us know and we will let you know too. Geez you know if you don't want to read about ppl's problems then don't read here. -The End...
 
Wowsers..

Reliability issues?
You guys must lead a sheltered life...might I suggest a good GM or VW product instead?

Squeaks = nuisance
Dead car on side of road = reliability issue

Blizz is right.
Lithium grease on the shift fork cures the squeak every time.
The odds of the slave or master being bad on a new car are close enough to zero that I'd take that bet and your money every time.

I also agree that the easy solution for the dealer is always parts replacement.
Reimbursed by the manufacturer, no diagnosis time or brains needed.
No wonder mechanical and critical thinking skills are disappearing.
 
cannot grease

I asked about greasing the forks or area it spins on, and the dealer said that design does not allow lubricating or greasing, you have no choice but to replace the part. They said they tried to grease it first and realized there is "nowhere" to grease. Go figure....
 
G'sMAZDA3 said:
yea for the past month or so theres been a squeking sound coming from the clutch pedal something is screwed up. they said they couldnt find the problem until they called the mazda hotline or something, now ive been waiting for the part for a two weeks now
Click to expand...



WHERE THE CLUTCH SLAVE CYL. PUSHES UP AGAINST THE FORK THERE
IS THIS SORT OF BALL AND SOCKET TRY GREASING THIS AREA, AND SEE IF THAT DOESN'T STOP THE CLICKING AND SQUEAKING, MY 2000 PROTEGE HAD THAT SAME PROBLEM AND THIS SEEMED TO RESOLVE THE CONCERN.
 
early problems

I just got my Mazda3 about two weeks ago, although I've been racking up the mileage fast. This is my third car, and my first new one, and I have had more problems in the first week and a half then with any of the others in such a time frame. Don't get me wrong, I absolutely love the car, but this is becoming frustrating.
First problem happened on the first day. I received it in Lancaster county with 116 miles on the odo. It was driven by my dealer personally at my request, because I wanted the car trailered up so it would not be abused. They claimed they couldn't do that, but that he would drive it to make sure it wasn't abused. Whether or not he took it easy, I don't know, but he seems like a good guy, I spent a lot of time with him on the phone discussing exactly how I wanted my 3. So anyways, driving my 3 with about 160 miles on it, i hear a popping noise and I find a spring assembly that fell off my clutch peddle. It was a three peice assembly, comprising of a plastic, donut shaped, cupped piece that had a long pastic shaft that had a circular cup on the other side that was greased. Entire assembly about 3 inches long. Took my car right back to the dealership and they couldn't figure out where the part went, said they would have it ordered for me same day next week. Returned and the part had not arrived yet.
Second problem, within the first week my tweeters blew out. I listen to my music loud, but I only had the volume maxed for about 5 seconds ever, just to see how loud it went. Usually have my volume set around 20. I don't know if this is that hard on my speakers, but the way I feel, factory speakers should not be able to blow with the volume at full blast, ever, let alone at less than 2/3's of max volume.
Third problem, maybe not a problem, lost about 1/2-3/4 of a quart of oil after about 800 miles on my 3. Topped it off, changed oil when I reached 1500 miles, get all the breaking in metals out of my oil system, didn't notice oil loss at that time. I drained it when it was cold, so I didn't get an accurate reading of the dipstick before I changed my oil.
Fourth problem, I found oil drips when i noticed my oil was low at ~800 miles. Only a few drops, but I've cleaned them off and continue to find them underneath my exhaust on a brace to where my passenger side axle meets with the half shaft. I am starting to believe this is where the leak is coming from, and that it is not motor oil, which was my first thought. This might have something to do with the lack of my clutch pedal spring. Or both could have something to do with how my car was driven before I came to own it.
Fifth problem, my car might have a bad ground. A few days ago my 3 started to shock me every time I get out. Usually a sign of a bad ground.

If anyone has experienced any of these symptoms, please let me know. I don't want to spend my every day off running to the dealership.
 
update

i've had my master cylinder replaced, and i noticed a big difference in how my car drove. very smooth. for a couple weeks. now its starting to seem jumpy between gears, has anyone else noticed this. my 3 makes me question my driving ability, but i've drivin literally hundreds of manuals due to my jobs, and i'm rather convinced thats not it. has anyone else wondered if their car seemed a little overly jerky? please let me know. i've had it at the dealership, they bled the clutch. still didn't fix the problem, now they are saying they don't think there is a problem.
 
carperformance3 said:
I just got my Mazda3 about two weeks ago, although I've been racking up the mileage fast. This is my third car, and my first new one, and I have had more problems in the first week and a half then with any of the others in such a time frame. Don't get me wrong, I absolutely love the car, but this is becoming frustrating.
First problem happened on the first day. I received it in Lancaster county with 116 miles on the odo. It was driven by my dealer personally at my request, because I wanted the car trailered up so it would not be abused. They claimed they couldn't do that, but that he would drive it to make sure it wasn't abused. Whether or not he took it easy, I don't know, but he seems like a good guy, I spent a lot of time with him on the phone discussing exactly how I wanted my 3. So anyways, driving my 3 with about 160 miles on it, i hear a popping noise and I find a spring assembly that fell off my clutch peddle. It was a three peice assembly, comprising of a plastic, donut shaped, cupped piece that had a long pastic shaft that had a circular cup on the other side that was greased. Entire assembly about 3 inches long. Took my car right back to the dealership and they couldn't figure out where the part went, said they would have it ordered for me same day next week. Returned and the part had not arrived yet.
Second problem, within the first week my tweeters blew out. I listen to my music loud, but I only had the volume maxed for about 5 seconds ever, just to see how loud it went. Usually have my volume set around 20. I don't know if this is that hard on my speakers, but the way I feel, factory speakers should not be able to blow with the volume at full blast, ever, let alone at less than 2/3's of max volume.
Third problem, maybe not a problem, lost about 1/2-3/4 of a quart of oil after about 800 miles on my 3. Topped it off, changed oil when I reached 1500 miles, get all the breaking in metals out of my oil system, didn't notice oil loss at that time. I drained it when it was cold, so I didn't get an accurate reading of the dipstick before I changed my oil.
Fourth problem, I found oil drips when i noticed my oil was low at ~800 miles. Only a few drops, but I've cleaned them off and continue to find them underneath my exhaust on a brace to where my passenger side axle meets with the half shaft. I am starting to believe this is where the leak is coming from, and that it is not motor oil, which was my first thought. This might have something to do with the lack of my clutch pedal spring. Or both could have something to do with how my car was driven before I came to own it.
Fifth problem, my car might have a bad ground. A few days ago my 3 started to shock me every time I get out. Usually a sign of a bad ground.

If anyone has experienced any of these symptoms, please let me know. I don't want to spend my every day off running to the dealership.
Click to expand...

Do you have cloth seats or leather? If you have cloth, the "shocks" you are receiving are static electicity! My old Pontiac Sunfire used to the same thing all of the time. If your car had a bad ground, it wouldn't start, wouldn't run well, or you'd smell the distinct aroma of burning wire insulation. Your car is going to draw X many amperes of energy to ground, no matter how it has to get there. Your electrical system is designed to spread those amperes of work (in heat) across multiple grounding points. If one of those grounding points is bad/loose, the electrical load will go to one of the other ground points. How well the other ground points do with the increased amount of amperage flowing through directly relates to the thinckness of the wire used.

It's possible you're leaking tranny oil out of the half-shaft seal.
 
but the way I feel, factory speakers should not be able to blow with the volume at full blast, ever
Click to expand...

That doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me. When would you expect them to blow, at low volumes? Even when you use quality crossovers to tune in frequencies to optimal ranges, you can still blow speakers, factory or not.

i've had my master cylinder replaced, and i noticed a big difference in how my car drove. very smooth. for a couple weeks. now its starting to seem jumpy between gears, has anyone else noticed this.
Click to expand...

I haven't noticed any jumpiness outside of the period where the tranny is warming up. Does the feel of the clutch pedal change at all? Does the release point travel at all during the time you're driving it? If neither of these things happen (as well as if your clutch pedal doesn't stick to the floor until you manually lift it, though I think you would have noted this if it was to that point), then I don't think there's air in the system as per bleeding the system. Does the fluid check out ok in your new master cyl?

When the spring assembly broke originally, did they replace the entire clutch assembly?
 
not in the first two weeks...(in regard to the factory speakers) my first car was an 88 ford bronco2, i bought it in 98, and its speakers weren't blown...i think 2 weeks is a little extreme. especially considering i listen to the radio at 2/3s volume at the most. my new speakers haven't blown, and its been 2 months.

and for the clutch, they had to replace the entire master cylinder assembly. it was supposed to take them 1 hour (as per the instructions with the part), and it took them 4 hours. the pedal doesn't have a very different feel. i did a sort of test, maybe you can try it on your car, see if yours becomes jumpy under the same situation. perform a shift from 2nd to 3rd, while slowly accelerating and shifting at 2500 rpms, counting "one, one-thousand", from clutch in to clutch out. let me know if you try this, and how your car treats the shift.
 
carperformance3 said:
and for the clutch, they had to replace the entire master cylinder assembly. it was supposed to take them 1 hour (as per the instructions with the part), and it took them 4 hours. the pedal doesn't have a very different feel. i did a sort of test, maybe you can try it on your car, see if yours becomes jumpy under the same situation. perform a shift from 2nd to 3rd, while slowly accelerating and shifting at 2500 rpms, counting "one, one-thousand", from clutch in to clutch out. let me know if you try this, and how your car treats the shift.
Click to expand...

Mine takes the shift smooth & free of jerkyness, though shifting slowly and at 2500rpm, anything more than a sliver of gas pedal modulation is going to bog it. Even if it's bogging, though, I don't think it'd be very jerky.
 
I have had the same problem as some of you here with third gear and this was the only one that I had noticed until about 2 weeks ago when it became increasingly hard to shift into reverse. I would try and try to get it into reverse and it just would not go. I know that there is a safety measure in place that stops you from shifting from a gear into reverse, but taking this into consideration and putting the car into neutral for a few seconds I still would not be able to get the car back into gear. There were a couple of times that this would work and when it did I was met with a loud metal on metal grinding sound like the teeth on the reverse gear were not matching up like it should and it would continue to skip until I pressed the clutch back in(which was right away). I don't have this problem if I shift into first gear first and then take it back to neutral and then finally to reverse, but this is a little annoying and should not be that way. I am getting my brakes replaced on saturday and am going to bring the noise up to them and see what they say. I don't drive my car hard at all and use it to commute everyday to school. I have about 24K miles on my car right now. Anyone else having a similar problem or have any clue to what's going on?

*Edit: I have only had my car since the end of August of last year.
 
as far as the reverse thing goes.... it is a safety feature, and if you can't go into reverse the first time you try, disengage then re-engage the clutch... that has always done it for me... a lil bit of a pain but not much....
 
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