Possible MSP purchase

[autoXevo]

My girlfriend is looking for a new car, and there is an 03 MSP for sale locally at a good price. Called the dealership and they said there is a problem with the car, seems to be a rev limiter problem, comes on too early. Its supposed to be fixed by this weekend so we can check it out. Is this something thats common with MSP's? Over-all, are these realiable cars that arent gonna cause constant and costly headaches (re: VW's!!!) I'd LOVE to get her this car, but I dont want to walk into a minefield either.
Thanks for any and all responses, or points in the right direction (thumb)

Dan
EVO8 RS

 

[jmv]

umm, i think it depends on if you're going to seriously mod it. If you are, then you might run into problems, as the engines aren't the strongest thing around (try a search for 'zoom zoom boom' for more info).... but its a fun car for sure.

 

[autoXevo]

After doing a search, I'm finding EXACTLY what the dealer says the prob is, the car just stops boosting around 3500rpm. How much does a reflash from a Mazda dealer go for? Has anyone totally gotten aroudn this problem with a S-AFC?
This car might get a few mods, exhaust, MBC, plugs/wires. Just a few things to give it a small kick. I save all my serious modding for the EVO

 

[jmv]

yeah, thats the hesitation issue. an AFC would do the trick, if you wanna go that route, or you can do the reflash from the dealer, although if you're upping boost real high without a full standalone, it might be better to go without the flash. I don't think the flash costs anything, but i could be wrong... dunno.

Another mod you might consider is a new intercooler, even if its just an aftermarket side mount, since the tiny stocker heat soaks easily.

 

[jmv]

also, i'd make sure you check out this thread, it has a list of any problem multiple owners have had, and their solutions... i've had just a few of those problems, some are easy fixes (such as replacing the bushings for the 'clunk'), and some are just quirks of the car (sometimes being a little hard to put into reverse). Well worth your time to read though.

 

[autoXevo]

I called a local dealer and he said it would be 102$ for diagnostic and flash if needed. Its hard to decided whether or not to take it, drop the 102$ to find out for sure if the cars bunk or not. If thats the problem, then its solved, if its not and I dont get the car, I'm out 102$ lol
I'll keep checking to see if anyone else has anything to chime in, but jmv, thanks for the prompt help! I wish all boards were like this. Want to see 80 flames in 2.5 seconds? Go as ANY question on EvoM.net, you'll get pounded with "do a search you f-in noob!!!!!"

 

[jflo]

do a search, noob.

just kidding. anyway, that thing with the rev limiter i've never really heard of from other owners. if that MSP is still under warranty, the flash should be free. from what you've said so far, it sounds like you're not looking to do major modding with the car, so you should be in a safe zone.

to be on the safe side, have the dealer check it out. shouldn't they be the ones to diagnose the car before selling ?

 

[autoXevo]

well its not at a normal dealership, its at a brokerage. the place where its at is more known for euro imports, my guess is the previous owner traded in on some sort of Audi or BMW. i'm supposed to call them today because they show cars by appointment, not just popping in like a normal car lot. from doing some looking around last night, seems to be a consistent problem. we'll see if they deal a little more on the car (maybe i'll tell em' its a major problem and they need to knock of 2500$ for future repair costs lol) throw in an AFC, boost controller (to lower it a lb or two) a better intercooler and call it good. she doesnt need to be ripping up the roads, she just needs a fun car with better gas mileage SOON. if all else fails there are two Protoge 5's for sale around too.

and its "do a search, you F-IN n00b" ha

 

[jred321]

on this board we can swear, so it's "do a search, you ****** n00b"

where are you from and what is the asking price? shouldn't the place that's selling you the car fix the problem for you before you buy it?

but overall, it's a good, relatively reliable car as long as it stock or relatively stock. there are some annoyances that are worse in colder climates (mostly bushing related) but overall not bad

 

[CasopoliS]

I don't know the price the dealer has it for, but I am selling my 2003.5 Titanium for $15,000. The price is high because of all the modifications, and it has 24k miles. Check out the link below, its at least worth a look. FMIC, HKS SSQV, BS Bypass valve, 3" SS turboback, Unichip, just to name a few. Babied and garaged, many new parts.

Ok ending the plug.... just see the thread below for details.

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2229427
jonmcgurk@gmail.com

 

[Rickman]

when I bought my MSP all of the standard issues (clunk, faceplate, etc) were fixable under warrnaty and I didnt have any issues getting my dealer fixing them. But they are a Mazdaspeed dealer so they're familair with the car. That in itself has been a big issue with some folks. Is the dealership that has it a Mazda dealership?

I would say after owning one that if it's to be used as a daily driver that won't be modded then it's a great car and should last quite a while. However, if you have crazy power goals then I'd start someplace else.

 

[CasopoliS]

when I bought my MSP all of the standard issues (clunk, faceplate, etc) were fixable under warrnaty and I didnt have any issues getting my dealer fixing them. But they are a Mazdaspeed dealer so they're familair with the car. That in itself has been a big issue with some folks. Is the dealership that has it a Mazda dealership?

I would say after owning one that if it's to be used as a daily driver that won't be modded then it's a great car and should last quite a while. However, if you have crazy power goals then I'd start someplace else.

Yea, all good points. I have taken my car into a Mazdaspeed dealer and they were very helpful with my car. They even replaced my bushings and rear lip with no question.

Starting from the beginning is fun, because you are there every step of the way and can see the growth and improvement of the car. Starting with a modded car is also nice, but mostly for the cost savings. If I would have bought my car in the condition it is today, it would be forged and other goodies to compliment. It is all on how you look at it. My wife woud never but a used car, where I would in a heartbeat, everyone thinks differently. Sounds like that car at the dealership could be a good deal if those things can be fixed by them... I just don't know why they would not fix them first.

 

[TX Speed Demon]

After doing a search, I'm finding EXACTLY what the dealer says the prob is, the car just stops boosting around 3500rpm. ....

You need to verify this is the issue. It could be hesitation, which feels like the car is struggling to go faster even though it's under full boost. If it is this, you should get a sudden surge of power the last 1K rpms as the AF ratios lean out a little. Is is lessened by getting all the supporting mods and boosting 10psi. It is eliminated with any of the EMS systems available for this car.

If it really isn't holding boost - meaning there's a boost gauge and you can see boost build then drop off - then you may just have a loose pipe that isn't sealing when boost builds, but I would definetly have that fixed before actually buying the car. Your brokerage dealer should be able to take it to any Mazda dealership and have it diagnosed under warrenty before you give them any money.

---

...throw in an AFC, boost controller (to lower it a lb or two) a better intercooler and call it good...

I don't think it's possible to lower the boost pressure a pound or two with a boost controller. Internally wastgated, the stock setting is as low as you can get. MSPs range from as little as 4.5psi (mine) to as high as 8psi (my friend Clint's)

 

[CasopoliS]

well its not at a normal dealership, its at a brokerage.

oh I missed that, my bad

 

[BOOSTR]

You shouldn't have to pay for the reflash. You can mod your daily driver and have a reliable car. My car still has the original clutch and LSD. Only the Kenwood HU crapped out. Everything else is doing well with 52,700 miles on the car. Seafoam in the intake vacuum port and gas tank would more than likely cure any hesitation that was not reflash related.

 

[CasopoliS]

You need to verify this is the issue. It could be hesitation, which feels like the car is struggling to go faster even though it's under full boost. If it is this, you should get a sudden surge of power the last 1K rpms as the AF ratios lean out a little. Is is lessened by getting all the supporting mods and boosting 10psi. It is eliminated with any of the EMS systems available for this car.

If it really isn't holding boost - meaning there's a boost gauge and you can see boost build then drop off - then you may just have a loose pipe that isn't sealing when boost builds, but I would definetly have that fixed before actually buying the car. Your brokerage dealer should be able to take it to any Mazda dealership and have it diagnosed under warrenty before you give them any money.

true as well. My car hesitated for a bit, but with an EMS ans supporting mods it no longer does. Our cars (MSP's) can be quirky like that, but understand that everything can be fixed.

 

[TX Speed Demon]

Also, if you hear a high pitched whistling when under full boost, make them take off the heat shiled over the exhaust manifold and inspect it for cracks. Quite a few members here have had them crack in the same location (right down the front, right in the middle). I always thought the wistling sound was just my turbo, but after finding the exhaust manifold crack (who knows how long it had been cracked before I found it) and having it replaced, the whistle is rarely heard above the CAI.

 

[ND4MSP]

The rev limiter sounding problem could possibly be that its constantly hitting fuel/spark cut. You could have a high boosting factory freak on your hands. In that case the cut comes pretty easily. Ask most people running more than factory boost. On the other hand the other way it was described later on in the post does point to the hesitation.

 

[Turtle of Time]

check my msp, its worth a look, and still under warranty, click link in signature

 

[blthlt]

the boost issue could be a stuck wastegate too guys dont forget. he says it "stops" boost at 3500 rpm. my car did this and the wastegate was stuck open only allowing me to get maybe 2psi to build may wanna have a look into this as well.