M
my3needsaname
I checked out the manual and it didn't say anything about he spec or whatnot. I checked in the engine section and the specs section at the back, nothing.
I know but it's always worth a shot. (9 months old, not 2 years)
Thanks, and you make them look like jerks. (yupnope)
Since I'm so nice and you apparently don't know your *** from your head.
Follow the intructions on page 8-24 (page 299 of the PDF):
2007 Owner's Manual
I know it says 2007, but it should be the same as your 2008 manual.
You obviously didn't pull out your dipstick or your manual. The dipstick is idiot proof. You don't have to read any numbers or anything. You have to just follow the steps and see that the fluid level is in between the acceptable range.
If you aren't willing to do 9 steps to figure out if your ATF fluid is at the right level, then this is why people are getting frustrated with you.
I believe the Trans fluid should be a bright red or pink. If it's brown or dark, it's dirty and you need to flush or even worse something's wrong. It shouldn't be dirty at your low mileage.
Follow the intructions on page 8-24 (page 299 of the PDF):
2007 Owner's Manual
I know it says 2007, but it should be the same as your 2008 manual.
You obviously didn't pull out your dipstick or your manual. The dipstick is idiot proof. You don't have to read any numbers or anything. You have to just follow the steps and see that the fluid level is in between the acceptable range.
If you aren't willing to do 9 steps to figure out if your ATF fluid is at the right level, then this is why people are getting frustrated with you.
I believe the Trans fluid should be a bright red or pink. If it's brown or dark, it's dirty and you need to flush or even worse something's wrong. It shouldn't be dirty at your low mileage.
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M
my3needsaname
I took out the manual and looked through the thing in the sections I thought it would be in but I guess it wasn't there in mine.Since I'm so nice and you apparently don't know your *** from your head.
Follow the intructions on page 8-24 (page 299 of the PDF):
2007 Owner's Manual
I know it says 2007, but it should be the same as your 2008 manual.
You obviously didn't pull out your dipstick or your manual. The dipstick is idiot proof. You don't have to read any numbers or anything. You have to just follow the steps and see that the fluid level is in between the acceptable range.
If you aren't willing to do 9 steps to figure out if your ATF fluid is at the right level, then this is why people are getting frustrated with you.
I believe the Trans fluid should be a bright red or pink. If it's brown or dark, it's dirty and you need to flush or even worse something's wrong. It shouldn't be dirty at your low mileage.
BTW, people were telling me there was no dipstick and I had to figure out what the spec was.
I just checked:
there are 2 notches on it and it says "65 C" in between and then there's a full 360 spin on it, my fluid is clear when thin and slightly brownish or dark reddish when it dripped and the fluid line it left after I took it out goes all the way up to the bottom of the 360 degree spin thingy each of the 3 times I checked it.
That means I have a problem and there's way too much in there right?
(I forgot to thank you for posting that, thank you.)
Well those ppl who claim to know alot are sometimes wrong and you should do your own research.
Here is a pic of old fluid
vs new fluid
(stole it from M3F, the guy did a trans fluid flush at 10.7k Miles and it was dark already).
I don't understand the 360 degree spin thingy you're talking about. There are two notches, one for low and one for full. There is a 65 C marking in between the two notches like you mentioned. If the fluid level is in between those two notches, you're good in terms of volume.
There are 9 steps in the manual you need to follow before you can get an accurate reading. You can't just pull out the dip stick and look at it and think that you're getting accurate information. You need to wipe it off so that you can see a line where the fluid ends on the stick.
I don't understand the 360 degree spin thingy you're talking about. There are two notches, one for low and one for full. There is a 65 C marking in between the two notches like you mentioned. If the fluid level is in between those two notches, you're good in terms of volume.
There are 9 steps in the manual you need to follow before you can get an accurate reading. You can't just pull out the dip stick and look at it and think that you're getting accurate information. You need to wipe it off so that you can see a line where the fluid ends on the stick.
M
my3needsaname
Haha, that's something that I learned but I still trust people too much.
Here's what I mean, I can't take a pic right now bu tif you pull it out you get sraight for very little, a 90 degree turn, the 2 notches ad writing, a bit more room, then a full 360 and some room, then it goes all the way up to the orange rubber end. That's the best I can describe without taking a picture.
I did it 3 times cleaning it off in between each time.
Here's what I mean, I can't take a pic right now bu tif you pull it out you get sraight for very little, a 90 degree turn, the 2 notches ad writing, a bit more room, then a full 360 and some room, then it goes all the way up to the orange rubber end. That's the best I can describe without taking a picture.
I did it 3 times cleaning it off in between each time.
I still don't know what you're talking about b/c I have a standard and so I don't have a dipstick to look at.
The best would be to take a picture and post it.
You only care about this area anyways:
If there is no fluid in that area, your tranny fluid is very low.
The best would be to take a picture and post it.
You only care about this area anyways:
If there is no fluid in that area, your tranny fluid is very low.
M
my3needsaname
Oh, ok. I'll throw up a pic or two in a bit. Basically mine is waaaaaaaaaaay above the full line.
Edit: all the pics I took. they're pretty terrible and I tried to get good ones but the camera was pissed at me. In the first 2 you can more or less see the 90 degree twist at the beginning, the fill lines, then the 360 bend. The second 2 you can see that it's filled to just the bottom of the 360 by the liquid reflection. The last one has mainly residue it picked up from the dipstick tube on its way out on the 360 bend.
Edit: all the pics I took. they're pretty terrible and I tried to get good ones but the camera was pissed at me. In the first 2 you can more or less see the 90 degree twist at the beginning, the fill lines, then the 360 bend. The second 2 you can see that it's filled to just the bottom of the 360 by the liquid reflection. The last one has mainly residue it picked up from the dipstick tube on its way out on the 360 bend.
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Tranny fluid
The twist on you'r automatic tranny dip stick is just to add stregenth to the dip stick. The 2 notches below the twist are the low fluid and high fluid mark. The 65c refers to the Tempature of the tranny fluid. Drive you'r car for a mile or so before checking the fluid. Leave the car in park and running when you check the fluid. The fluid should come in between the 2 notches. It appears that you'r tranny is now way over full and needs to have the excess fluid drained out. If it's way over full as I expect it is you could have major damage to it. First drain off any excess fluid if it is indead over full and then drive it. If it shifts as it should you might have dodged a real problem. If it is over full donot wait to drain it. Do it.
The twist on you'r automatic tranny dip stick is just to add stregenth to the dip stick. The 2 notches below the twist are the low fluid and high fluid mark. The 65c refers to the Tempature of the tranny fluid. Drive you'r car for a mile or so before checking the fluid. Leave the car in park and running when you check the fluid. The fluid should come in between the 2 notches. It appears that you'r tranny is now way over full and needs to have the excess fluid drained out. If it's way over full as I expect it is you could have major damage to it. First drain off any excess fluid if it is indead over full and then drive it. If it shifts as it should you might have dodged a real problem. If it is over full donot wait to drain it. Do it.
Great, so now you know your tranny fluid is overfilled and the symptoms associated with that are consistent with what you're experiencing.
Go to the dealer and ask them to look at the tranny fluid. Tell them to make sure your tranny is undamaged. Make them document everything b/c if your tranny takes a crap later on in the car's life, you know the reason why.
Go to the dealer and ask them to look at the tranny fluid. Tell them to make sure your tranny is undamaged. Make them document everything b/c if your tranny takes a crap later on in the car's life, you know the reason why.
M
my3needsaname
Awesome! Another success story. lol
I can't get up to Mazda this week though, I'm really busy and they're closed on weekends so if I take it in at the beginning of next week it can't really do much more damage than it has already right?
(just for the record, the only fluid I touch is the washer fluid and I've never filled that to date)
I can't get up to Mazda this week though, I'm really busy and they're closed on weekends so if I take it in at the beginning of next week it can't really do much more damage than it has already right?
(just for the record, the only fluid I touch is the washer fluid and I've never filled that to date)
saturdays are really low profit, if they dont do enough business theyll close on saturdays. and btw, i totally called it 
i cant believe they didnt check that though, w/e. bring it in as soon as you can, and drive carefully. every part of the tranny is screaming at you right now. good luck!
i cant believe they didnt check that though, w/e. bring it in as soon as you can, and drive carefully. every part of the tranny is screaming at you right now. good luck!2003protege
Member
- :
- Mazda Protege LX
The transmission is actually scheduled to completely fall out of the car at 6000 miles. So, I'd just circle the dealer's parking lot to cross that mark.(spin)
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my3needsaname
Diablo Mazda in Walnut Creek, CA. Closed every weekend and only have techs there from 7AM to 3PM. Terrible hours when you actually have to be somewhere from 7AM to 3PM. But they do have early bird drop off and there's somebody there until 6 along with the service manager. Actually a lot of Mazda dealers around here are closed saturdays. Only one's that're open on Saturday are Hayward Mazda in Hayward, CA (bad experiences - never going back) and Oak Tree Mazda in Palo Alto, CA. Everybody else either has like drop off only on Saturday or they're clsoed down alltogether.
lol I gotta give you the credit for that. Just gotta see what they say cause it'll probably be something like "checked transmission fluid for overfill, fluid level inspected by technician and service manager and found to be at normal operating level. No attention needed at this time." Then I'll be like...(doughpoke(fu)(notcool)(yupnope)(chair)(rant)(rant)(rant)(rant)(second)(protest)(bang):bssaturdays are really low profit, if they dont do enough business theyll close on saturdays. and btw, i totally called it
bird)(uhm)(no)(eek2)(headshake(fuoops)(upyours)(loser)(blowup)(argh)(argh)(argh)(argh)(pissed)(pissed)(pissed)(pissed)(pissed)(pissed):mad::mad::mad::mad:
(pow)hahaha!
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my3needsaname
I have a really strange problem. I'm not even sure how this happened but there's something in the back end f the car that rattles all the time. Now I found that it's inside the plastic cover on the hatch because when I open it, it rattles. But what the heck could it be? What's in that plastic that could break this early??? Rear wiper still works sooo.....(dunno)
